Reasonable price oil with good shearing resistance?

Looks like basically all the gassers from 2016 call for a 502 00 oil, and they indicate 5W-30, 5W-40 and 0W-40:
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According to Mobil, the two products they make that have the 502 00 approval are the oil you are using, M1 FS 0W-40, and M1 FS X2 5W-40:
Screen Shot 2022-07-17 at 5.50.35 PM.jpg


So, personally, I'd just stick with this oil.
 
Gotta be careful with what certs Mobil recommends for vs what the product formally carries. That 5W-30 only officially has 504 00/507 00, it is only "recommended for" the other VW approvals.

I wonder about Mobil 1's oil recommendation. For my '18 GTI it recommends the ESP 5w30 and doesn't even suggest 0w40 even though it clearly says VW 502/505 under the hood of my car.
 
your nose. its almost impossible not to smelll the gas right off the dip stick if you have a good nose and theres a lot of fuel dilution.
Unless you have a calibrated nose it is very difficult to determine the amount of fuel dilution. On my old Sienna it always smells like fuel yet I do not have significant dilution.
 
So after looking at my M1 0-40 OA results I do see it shearing down to a 30w oil…

Others suggest running Driven DI40 but at $15/qt, is there something else in the middle that’s a little more affordable yet performs better than M1 and can resist shearing down to a 30w oil?

Here in PHX with summers at 115F, I think it might be prudent to stick with a oil that’s not turning thinner than necessary.

Thoughts?
So what if it is 115f? Do you have cooling issues?
 
So what if it is 115f? Do you have cooling issues?

When pushing the turbo is going to heat up higher than someone in Canada...and the cooldown period is going to be longer- more time for the oil to bake. In the summer it can take 4-5hours before the cat is cool enough to touch to the hand. In the winter its half that.
 
When pushing the turbo is going to heat up higher than someone in Canada...and the cooldown period is going to be longer- more time for the oil to bake. In the summer it can take 4-5hours before the cat is cool enough to touch to the hand. In the winter its half that.


The temperature of the cat has no connection to oil temperature and shearing, especially in the context you just presented.
 
When pushing the turbo is going to heat up higher than someone in Canada...and the cooldown period is going to be longer- more time for the oil to bake. In the summer it can take 4-5hours before the cat is cool enough to touch to the hand. In the winter its half that.
Higher? Tell us what are your values?
I see turbo vehicles here in CO on track all the time running regular oils. You want to see challenges to cooling? Come here at 5,000ft at 100 degrees. Phoenix is peanuts for this.
Your cooling system maintains your oil temperature. And what is your oil temperature? 220?230?240?250?260? Bcs. those are all ok temperatures for oil.
Also, you want xW40 oils, ok
Two things:
What that has to do with cooling down? Do you think XW40 will cook less? Why? Mobil1 0W40 FS has same HTHS as Motul X-Clean + 5W30, 3.6cP.
XW40 will generate more resistance =more heat. If you truly have oil temperature issues (and you don’t, but let’s say you do), first step is diluting coolant to lower coolant concentration. Run 20-30% coolant concentration instead of 50/50. That allows better heat exchange with environment.
Install oil cooler.

By the way, I drove my Tiguan on I8 West of Phoenix 120mph at 127 degrees ambient temperature. Nothing happened! Not even coolant gauge moved. But, every time I am climing Pikes Peak at 40 degrees I manage to move coolant gauge pass half. And car still runs like a champion.
Not to mention that that I ran on track BMW to 300f oil temperature, which you won’t do on a street ever. Oil I pushed to 300f was Mobil1 0W40FS. And all is good.
Have more faith in oils manufacturer recommends.
 
Of course. And it is VW. I could grill 12oz stake on my Tiguan’s engine 2hrs after I turn it off.
When we were doing lots of alternators under the 27H2 recall alot of the customers were waiting as you can do one in 20 mins. Down side the alternator was hot as hell. Was a good laugh putting it on the parts counter like normal and watching the apprentice pick it up and nearly drop it. Worked every time you would have though he would have learnt.
 
When we were doing lots of alternators under the 27H2 recall alot of the customers were waiting as you can do one in 20 mins. Down side the alternator was hot as hell. Was a good laugh putting it on the parts counter like normal and watching the apprentice pick it up and nearly drop it. Worked every time you would have though he would have learnt.
In a winter Tiguan serves as heater in a garage 😂
 
With all the folks that have run M1 0W-40 in that same engine, have shown it to shear down to a high 30wt. (then stabilizing there) and have had ZERO problems doing it, why do you want to change? Still one of the best, cheapest, and most available "40s" out there.

Now, if you just want to try some DIFFERENT, then there are a few on the hit list I would suggest; Valvoline Euro 5W-40 (lots of approvals and HTHS of 3.7), Castrol 5W-40, and even the QS 5W-40 Euro, which is API SP and LL-01 would fit the bill for cheap.
 
With all the folks that have run M1 0W-40 in that same engine, have shown it to shear down to a high 30wt. (then stabilizing there) and have had ZERO problems doing it, why do you want to change? Still one of the best, cheapest, and most available "40s" out there.

Now, if you just want to try some DIFFERENT, then there are a few on the hit list I would suggest; Valvoline Euro 5W-40 (lots of approvals and HTHS of 3.7), Castrol 5W-40, and even the QS 5W-40 Euro, which is API SP and LL-01 would fit the bill for cheap.
Zero isnt anywhere close to the truth on the EA888 2.0 TFSI engine.

There are significant issues with clogged piston rings. That is why on this particular engine trying to find the best oil that isn't going to exacerbate the issue is the goal.
 
There are significant issues with clogged piston rings. That is why on this particular engine trying to find the best oil that isn't going to exacerbate the issue is the goal.
If you do not want to exacerbate the problem then pick the oil with the proper approval and shorten your OCI. You may be able to slow down the problem, but no oil will not fix a design flaw.
 
Yeah, zero could be a bit of an exaggeration. But the oil itself isn't necessarily the problem as long as it's still doing well. This requires much better testing and interpretation of the oil than B-Stone could ever provide. Look for an analysis that provides at least nitration and oxidation numbers as well as proper fuel dilution numbers. This can go a long way in helping you determine oil life in your application. I bet you find that M1 0W-40, even though it shears some, will still be fine with a much shorter OCI.
 
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