RAV4 V6 oil filter

[ShifterStang]

Just bought a new 09 RAV4 V6 Sport for my wife. Car has a replaceable oil filter element (the filtering "medium") and you get to it by inserting a "service pipe", I understand. In other words, it's not a spin-on. There are also two O-rings that get replaced each time.

Sounds pretty complex. Any hints before I tackle the first oil and filter change? Thanks in advance,
Craig

 

[StevieC]

This is something that a lot of manufacturers have tried and then have gone back to spin on/off filters... It's just as easy, but can be messy so be sure to have some extra towels to wipe up.

 

[PandaBear]

Did a similar change on my IS. You can use a cap that is around 63-67mm (forgot which one, try a few) to open the filter housing cap, and replace the o-ring and the filter, then tighten it (lightly, or you will break the o-ring).

Takes more effort but in the end you get more oil out, can inspect the filter, and less metal wasted in the environment.

 

[StevieC]

PandaBear... Off-topic I buy almost all SanDisk products because the brand of stuff has been really great for me. Thanks for the good works from your Company! -- 1 Happy Customer

 

[momomeister]

If it's anything like a MB, I suspect you'd need to lubricate the o-rings before putting them back onto the "service pipe".. Also, I imagine you can fill the oil through the same hole the filter is sitting in.... Finally, if the filter is on top of the engine, like a MB, then changing the filter should be easier and cleaner..

 

[StevieC]

From what I heard it's on the bottom... Not sure though. On top like an MB would be much easier!

 

[ChiTDI]

The filter body comes off with a 64mm cup wrench, or big vise-grip/pliers etc., THEN you use a ratchet/extension square to remove the little disc. Clean and replace the element, lube the o-rings, install the filter body to 25 Newtons and then the little disc to 12.5 Newtons.
That little gizmo that plugs into the bottom is for draining the unit before removing it from the engine. An attempt to reduce spillage. If you use it, connect it to a hose and point it to your drain pan.

 

[ShifterStang]

Thank you, Chi TDI. Thank you, PandaBear. Very helpful. I'll get the proper wrench.

How important is it to torque exactly as you recommend, Chi? Is "snug", like the drain plug, maybe a little less, OK?

Momomeister: The filter is down low but at the front. There's an access cutout in the plastic shield down there. I may not even need the ramps.

 

[PandaBear]

StevieC, thanks. We need every penny now because the industry is in a downturn, not fun to see co-worker getting laid off.


ShifterStang, Toyota has the filter below the engine and sitting sideway, and the o-ring is sealing along the outer and inner sides of the housing and cap, not between top and bottom sides. In theory you cannot break it by over-tighten it, but one of our forum member has a broken o-ring and oil leaked everywhere in his garage, so I would be extra careful on the torque. It is metal to metal in the end so if you feel that it is tight by hand/finger, don't go torque happy.

 

[FZ1]

Yeah,I'll tell you how to tackle it. Take it to the dealer for all oil changes while under warranty.

 

[Eddie]

Same set up om my Mazda. The little bolt/screw at the bottom of the canister cap is to allow you to drain the housing before removing the element. Not a bad job, but take you time the first time to get it correct. I now can do the oil & filter change ~ 30 minutes.

 

[Brett Miller]

I have the same engine in my 2008 Sienna. I've changed the filter twice. A Toyota filter has good instructions right on the box.

 

[PT1]

Same set up on the wifes 08 Lexus ES350. Very easy to do. No need to torque in on as it bottoms out on the threads when snug and the o-rings do the sealing. One hint: on the canister remove the large o-ring with a wooden toothpick because if you scratch the aluminum canister it will leak. The o-rings seal fine just be sure to coat them with some clean oil when re-installing. Another tip: If your canister is stuck on tap gently with a small hammer and it will loosen.

 

[ChiTDI]

Panda Bear said it right. I would torque with a torque wrench a few times and you'll know for sure how much is enough and how much is too much.
That broken o-ring pic is somewhere on the sight and worth looking at. When you clean, make sure the groove for the o-ring is spotless (no debris) and that the lubed o-ring has no foreign material attached.

 

[ShifterStang]

Thank you, all. I'm actually looking forward to it.

 

[ShifterStang]

And thanks to the moderator of the PCMO section of this great site for moving my question to the Oil Filters section. Yes, I should have posted it here.

Craig