Purolator PureOne PL14612 - cut open

[bmwpowere36m3]

Here's the Purolator P1 PL14612 oil filter off my '15 Yamaha FZ-07. I bought this bike this year, broke-in hard and this was the 4th OC. The OCI was ~1500 miles and the oil was Rotella TTT 15W-40.

Here are the previous filters cut open: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3810967/Yamaha_vs._Fram_TG_vs._Bosch_v

Here's the P1:














Can someone decipher the date code on the filter: F09F08E3

Yeah, first thing I noticed… metal end cap with bypass came right off. No evidence of adhesive remaining on inside of end cap, just faint black stains. It just didn't bond to the metal (dirty, oily, whatever). Other end cap is secure.

Second, the spacing near the crimp is not great and the pleats on either side are noticeably creased in. Third, the yellow bits on the filter are just the paint from the can.

On the previous oil filter I cut open… I didn't really pay attention to pleat spacing, spacing at the crimp or signs of tearing. However they looked good overall. While the Bosch filter was similar in construction (I understand it should be), IIRC, the pleats around the crimp looked better and both metal end caps were secure.










*Disclaimer*

The method of opening the filters has been the same, punch a bunch of holes near the bottom seam with a flat-screwdriver and use tin-snips to cut open. On this particular filter, I dented the metal end-cap in a couple spots (can be seen in photo above, from punching with screwdriver)… it might be possible that I hit the pleats. However I kind of doubt it.


So lastly, a good look at the pleats near the crimp and I see what looks like signs of them starting to tear. Only on the lower end (opposite of bypass) and only the pleat of either side of the crimp (the ones that are creased in.

In the picture below you can see the lighter color "fuzzyness" near the adhesive. They're NOT torn thru, but definitely starting to.



Whether the "beginnings" of tearing are my fault or not… just based on the short OCI, pleat spacing near crimp, creased pleats near crimp and not adhered end-cap. I'm hesitant to try another, maybe. I replaced this with another Bosch because I get them at cost and from what I remember it looked good from my previous OCI.

 

[ZeeOSix]

F09F08E3 = 9/8/2014

Use something better next time.

 

[crazyoildude]

I agree with Zee0Six next time buy a better filter maybe a fram ultra or anything Wix.

 

[53' Stude]

It tore so enough said. Put in the trash and go with a NAPA or WIX

 

[Kira]

I'm all for deriding any filter but it's hard to single out this one when it looks like it was opened with a lawn mower. Kira

 

[CarbonSteel]

In this case, I have to give the benefit of the doubt to Purolator. The stress that was induced during the effort to open the can could have easily twisted the media and started the tearing.

 

[pbm]

It looks to me that Purolator is trying to skimp on paper (filter material) to save a few pennies....why else would the pleat spacing be so irregular?

 

[goodtimes]

New color cans coming soon, all these yellow ones are antiques. The Yamaha Denso looked interesting with the no end cap design, but with blue ADBV. Probably silicone as it isn't black. Maybe the black Toyota valves are silicone too, silicone isn't color conscious.

 

[HerrStig]

There's the filter in the picture, and the could be, would be, and might be.

 

[bigt61]

Originally Posted By: Kira
I'm all for deriding any filter but it's hard to single out this one when it looks like it was opened with a lawn mower. Kira

Nice. At least the photos were of good quality. Good effort OP, but you need to come up with a better process in the future.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Originally Posted By: pbm
It looks to me that Purolator is trying to skimp on paper (filter material) to save a few pennies....why else would the pleat spacing be so irregular?


I've always wondered this myself... why can't they keep the spacing the same. It's one thing if its just irregular all the way around. Its another when it only near the crimp that the spacing gets wider.

I was wondering if it was spaced, so they can get a tool in to apply the crimp, i.e. the media is wrapped around the center tube, adhesive applied, end caps attached and then the media is crimped. Or is the media crimped first, then put over the center tube and yada, yada, yada.

Either its by design, doesn't matter (in the opinion of the manufacturer) or simply poor QA.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
New color cans coming soon, all these yellow ones are antiques. The Yamaha Denso looked interesting with the no end cap design, but with blue ADBV. Probably silicone as it isn't black. Maybe the black Toyota valves are silicone too, silicone isn't color conscious.


Antique...

I'm pretty sure their still selling them.

Yup, the factory Yamaha filter was definitely stout. First time I've seen no end caps... just resin applied to the ends of the media. That resin/adhesive was STRONG.

 

[goodtimes]

The Yamaha filter looks like the Toyota filter. Those are knocked down as less efficient, but I don't buy into that so much, because it's based on one test by Amsoil. Purolator is coming out with a whole new line, the yellow can will be gone soon. I doubt they still make them, but are selling stocks.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I'll just comment on the process, since its been raised a few times here...

First, I've used the same process on the last 4-5 filters and they all came out looking "fine".

Second, where I punctured the can is right at the lower seam... so at the ADBV. On this Purolator P1, I looked this morning, there is a 1/4" space between where I punched the slots and the end cap. Thinking about it now, I highly doubt I actually hit the end cap, even less so the media itself. There's only 1 spot on the end cap with a very slight dent and its not at the crimped area.

Third, there is a 1/4" space between the can and sides of the media. I was very gentle with the snips... even if it looks like the can was run over with a mower.

Fourth, I tried pressing on the media. It takes a decent amount of pressure for it to start tearing at the adhesive bond. If I tore the media, then I could only explain it if I directly hit the media while punching... not with the snips. And that doesn't seem to be the case.

Fifth, the end cap fell right off. No remnants of adhesive on it. ALL the other filter I've taken apart, I had to rip, tear, cut the media off. AND there was ALWAYS adhesive left on both the end caps and media.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

With that said,

The pleats are glued in place like that, near the crimp. Just based on a "short" OCI, end cap falling off, quality of media near crimp and the creasing of those said pleats (on the their sides, not really visible in photos)... I hesitant to use this filter again.

Whether I invest in a filter cutter is another story.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
The Yamaha filter looks like the Toyota filter. Those are knocked down as less efficient, but I don't buy into that so much, because it's based on one test by Amsoil. Purolator is coming out with a whole new line, the yellow can will be gone soon. I doubt they still make them, but are selling stocks.


As it seems most "factory" filters are... I more inclined to believe the efficiency thing is hype by aftermarket filter to differentiate themselves. Considering how many times oil is passed thru the filter. It might not catch everything in one pass, but it will given some time. So barring a catastrophic failure (in which case the filter won't save you anyway), wear happens slowly... so the filter has time to work.

 

[MinamiKotaro]

Cripes! That's some OCOD-level pleats, there. If it'll fit, try a PL14610 (longer) next time, the ones I've cut look significantly better than the 14612 size./

 

[gallydif]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
F09F08E3 = 9/8/2014

Use something better next time.

How true is this statement: Purolator filters made on December 2014 and after don't have this same tearing problem.

Also where did you get the 2014 from? I see the 9 and 8 for 9/8 but don't see the '14' in the code.

 

[901Memphis]

I use tin snips also but I cut circular around the base plate that way there's no way to damage the media since the end disc is right there. That being said think there's enough evidence that the filter tore on its own and obviously early in its life considering the newness of the media itself

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: gallydif
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
F09F08E3 = 9/8/2014

Use something better next time.

How true is this statement: Purolator filters made on December 2014 and after don't have this same tearing problem.

Also where did you get the 2014 from? I see the 9 and 8 for 9/8 but don't see the '14' in the code.


Not sure what evidence there is that Purolators don't tear if made after Dec 2014. I've never seen any proof of that.

Here's how to read the Purolator date code - the letter signifies the year.