Proper sharpening of mower blades?
- Thread starter Rob Taggs
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I use this cordless drill attachment I bought at Ace Hardware:
http://i.ebayimg.com/12/!B1OkS3gBGk~$(KGrHqIOKnEEw9CtuvE9BMdoyRPgn!~~_3.JPG
But apparently it doesn't do too good of a job, because whenever the TrueGreen guy comes around, he tells me to sharpen my blade again.
I think I'm going to have to try the old manual filing method...
http://i.ebayimg.com/12/!B1OkS3gBGk~$(KGrHqIOKnEEw9CtuvE9BMdoyRPgn!~~_3.JPG
But apparently it doesn't do too good of a job, because whenever the TrueGreen guy comes around, he tells me to sharpen my blade again.
I think I'm going to have to try the old manual filing method...
Seriously? A six year old thread?
EDIT: Oh, and a file. Doesn't heat up the blade and soften the new edge.
EDIT: Oh, and a file. Doesn't heat up the blade and soften the new edge.
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I use a belt sander on a slow-medium speed - faster than a file, easy to maintain the proper angle and creates a straight bevel (not concave) like rotary methods. Oh, and no special tools to buy
Unfortunately you don't get to buy any special tools
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I do quick passes on a bench grinder. The blade doesn't heat up appreciably.
Yeah, flat file here. I used to do it on my bench grinder, but I can get a better edge with a flat file and it really doesn't take that long. I normally sharpen my blades about twice a season (beginning of season and about half way through) but if I'm mulching up a lot of yard debris (like I am this year) then that will probably go to three times a season.
I get a better edge using my flat file than I get when I used to take my blades to a small engine shop to be sharpened. They were using a bench grinder with a jig to hold the angle but it was pretty dependent on the guy running the thing on how good of an edge you got.
It does really make a difference on the health of your grass and how good the lawn looks after you mow it. Nice sharp blades leave a much nicer surface and it doesn't leave ragged edges on the grass blades which aren't good for the plant's health.
I get a better edge using my flat file than I get when I used to take my blades to a small engine shop to be sharpened. They were using a bench grinder with a jig to hold the angle but it was pretty dependent on the guy running the thing on how good of an edge you got.
It does really make a difference on the health of your grass and how good the lawn looks after you mow it. Nice sharp blades leave a much nicer surface and it doesn't leave ragged edges on the grass blades which aren't good for the plant's health.
Actually I did search and found this topic. I was not answering OP's question. The criticism would have been valid if I was offering solution to the six year old question.
Anyway, I used Dremel but without the attachment. I followed the original angle. If I try, I can (barely) cut a paper with the blade. I am assuming that is as good as it is going to get.
> But apparently it doesn't do too good of a job, because whenever the TrueGreen guy comes around, he tells me to sharpen my blade again.
I am old similarly by my guy. He tells me to raise the lawnmower height. I am already at the max settings. Either I need to put bigger wheels or I need to find rubber bands for the wheels. I am also told to get blade sharpened. At least with my Dewalt cordless impact gun and the torque wrench, I can swap the blades in literally couple of minutes and actually enjoy doing the swap
- Vikas
Anyway, I used Dremel but without the attachment. I followed the original angle. If I try, I can (barely) cut a paper with the blade. I am assuming that is as good as it is going to get.
> But apparently it doesn't do too good of a job, because whenever the TrueGreen guy comes around, he tells me to sharpen my blade again.
I am old similarly by my guy. He tells me to raise the lawnmower height. I am already at the max settings. Either I need to put bigger wheels or I need to find rubber bands for the wheels. I am also told to get blade sharpened. At least with my Dewalt cordless impact gun and the torque wrench, I can swap the blades in literally couple of minutes and actually enjoy doing the swap
- Vikas
The problem, as explained to me, was using any type of high speed grinder/cutter on the cutting surface destroys the heat treat on that thin cutting edge. I remember the times I used a bench grinder I could see a blued edge after I was through with it. In factories all finish grinding/machining is done with lots of coolant. On advice I moved to a high quality flat file to sharpen/dress all of my blades.
Overall, that post about a sanding belt would seem like a great idea to get a decent edge without destroying the temper.
Overall, that post about a sanding belt would seem like a great idea to get a decent edge without destroying the temper.
The other nice thing about sanding is you can get all the nicks out, and can sand the shallow edge down to match the deep edge, keeping the balance of the blade.
One edge or the other always needs to be sanded more, to take out a deep nick. Removing the same amount of metal on both edges (especially this far from the center of the blade) keeps the rotating mass evenly balanced.
I don't think I'd bother to maintain balance without a power tool to sand the blade with. Too much work.
One edge or the other always needs to be sanded more, to take out a deep nick. Removing the same amount of metal on both edges (especially this far from the center of the blade) keeps the rotating mass evenly balanced.
I don't think I'd bother to maintain balance without a power tool to sand the blade with. Too much work.
Sharp blades are worth the trouble. One, they're cheap if worn out or ruined (especially compared to keeping sod watered and healthy, a problem exacerbated by dull, tearing blades); Two, it also pays to have several so that sharpening isn't an adjunct of gettin' the yard mowed.
I've a 15k s/f lawn at present and if I have to sharpen a blade every week or so it matters little compared to how fast the grass wilts and I have to set the NATIONAL B3 to running it's 180' of hose . . again.
Blade balance matters. Crankshafts deserve it. My lawn equipment lasts ten, twenty years or more so the details add up in the long run (used once/twice weekly, every week, year round)
I've tried files, sanders, Dremel and have settled on a cheap bench grinder as being fastest.
Wipe down the blades (after cleaning) with LC-20/ATF, too.
I've hired a man to do my lawn this season due to my work schedule and blade sharpening was at the top of the list of what I expected under the category of Mowing. I've too much time, effort and energy (and home value) to accept less. Took awhile to find a guy who can actually "see" well when it comes to lawns, a neighbor recommended him. Same with tree trimmers.
Good aesthetic is made up of details, IMO.
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I've a 15k s/f lawn at present and if I have to sharpen a blade every week or so it matters little compared to how fast the grass wilts and I have to set the NATIONAL B3 to running it's 180' of hose . . again.
Blade balance matters. Crankshafts deserve it. My lawn equipment lasts ten, twenty years or more so the details add up in the long run (used once/twice weekly, every week, year round)
I've tried files, sanders, Dremel and have settled on a cheap bench grinder as being fastest.
Wipe down the blades (after cleaning) with LC-20/ATF, too.
I've hired a man to do my lawn this season due to my work schedule and blade sharpening was at the top of the list of what I expected under the category of Mowing. I've too much time, effort and energy (and home value) to accept less. Took awhile to find a guy who can actually "see" well when it comes to lawns, a neighbor recommended him. Same with tree trimmers.
Good aesthetic is made up of details, IMO.
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