I was just wondering.
I don’t like the feel of the OE ceramic pads on my 2020 F-150. When it’s time to replace them, I’m going with semi-metallic all around.
Post your latest brake job
- Thread starter BMW Dom
- Start date
I don’t like the feel of the OE ceramic pads on my 2020 F-150. When it’s time to replace them, I’m going with semi-metallic all around.
2016 BMW 535d
Off: unknown front pads and rotors
On: OEM rotors, pads, and sensor.
Done by local indy BMW shop. All is well.
Rears are good at this time.
Side note: I asked the indy BMW guy if there were any models he wouldn't work on. He said he will not touch any BMW with the twin turbo V8.
Off: unknown front pads and rotors
On: OEM rotors, pads, and sensor.
Done by local indy BMW shop. All is well.
Rears are good at this time.
Side note: I asked the indy BMW guy if there were any models he wouldn't work on. He said he will not touch any BMW with the twin turbo V8.
Saturday: buddy's Corolla 2016, 168k km. He's original owner.
Out: Front factory original, very rusty, badly worn and warped rotors, Raybestos EHT3 pads, rear factory original and very rusty on outside drums.
In: Power Stop coated rotors and ceramic pads, Dynamic Friction drums. Shoes were barely worn, hardware looked like new, just adjusted to get some drag.
Brake fluid flush, Bosch ESI. Rear right had bunch of air bubbles come out.
Sunday: my Sportage, 2014, 169k km
Out: front factory original, barely worn rotors, EHT3 pads
In: Bosch QuietCast rotors and pads
BF sucked out from reservoir and refilled with fresh, fluid was 1 year fresh after full flush during rear rotors and pads change (didn't do shoes as they were still clean and meaty).
Out: Front factory original, very rusty, badly worn and warped rotors, Raybestos EHT3 pads, rear factory original and very rusty on outside drums.
In: Power Stop coated rotors and ceramic pads, Dynamic Friction drums. Shoes were barely worn, hardware looked like new, just adjusted to get some drag.
Brake fluid flush, Bosch ESI. Rear right had bunch of air bubbles come out.
Sunday: my Sportage, 2014, 169k km
Out: front factory original, barely worn rotors, EHT3 pads
In: Bosch QuietCast rotors and pads
BF sucked out from reservoir and refilled with fresh, fluid was 1 year fresh after full flush during rear rotors and pads change (didn't do shoes as they were still clean and meaty).
I have never seen that problem before. Use a pocket screwdriver and carefully lift up each tab individually, then gently back the shim off. Sometimes I use a large paint scraper for assistance.
That stuff doesn't provide any meaningful noise dampening. Garbage.
2004 Tundra in OK shape... My friend's grand daughter.
Left rotor was rust jacked to the hub. This truck came from Montana. Beat on it with my trusty hand sledge. Lotsa WD-10/40
Used Rockauto Dynamic Friction coated rotor/pad kit. Came with pins, springs and keepers!
Who ever touched these brakes last time put their gun on rock-n-roll and let 'er rip! Everything was waaaaay over tightened.
Fixed calipers are my favorite.
Oh yeah we don't believe in rust around here... Waaaaay over rated, IMO.
Left rotor was rust jacked to the hub. This truck came from Montana. Beat on it with my trusty hand sledge. Lotsa WD-10/40
Used Rockauto Dynamic Friction coated rotor/pad kit. Came with pins, springs and keepers!
Who ever touched these brakes last time put their gun on rock-n-roll and let 'er rip! Everything was waaaaay over tightened.
Fixed calipers are my favorite.
Oh yeah we don't believe in rust around here... Waaaaay over rated, IMO.
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2012 Nissan Rogue 156K miles
Off-no idea
On-Raybestos pads and rotors
Inside pad on both fronts were worn down considerably more than the outside pad
Off-no idea
On-Raybestos pads and rotors
Inside pad on both fronts were worn down considerably more than the outside pad
2012 Honda Odyssey
170k miles, about 3 yrs since last brake fluid flush
Out: ShopPro DOT3
In: Valvoline DOT3/4
Also replaced the rear pads.
Off: Raybestos EHT
On: Centric C-Tek semi-metallic
The Raybestos performed well overall for the past 5+ years but fitment was bad. I had to file down the tabs when I installed them and they rusted to the clips, and had to be cleaned and libed every year after. The Centrics fit better but still needed a little filing to make them right. We'll see how they do...
170k miles, about 3 yrs since last brake fluid flush
Out: ShopPro DOT3
In: Valvoline DOT3/4
Also replaced the rear pads.
Off: Raybestos EHT
On: Centric C-Tek semi-metallic
The Raybestos performed well overall for the past 5+ years but fitment was bad. I had to file down the tabs when I installed them and they rusted to the clips, and had to be cleaned and libed every year after. The Centrics fit better but still needed a little filing to make them right. We'll see how they do...
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2015 Camry. 145k miles
Brakes had been done by a shop 2 years ago. Friend was complaining of “grabbing and bad.” (She doesn’t have words for this kind of thing.) I’ve known the car to require a lot of pedal force for mediocre stopping.
Threw out the old pads.
Newish front rotors were very good
Oem rear drum/rotors had some wear but not bad.
Old brake fluid looked like a layered parfait - yellow, black and green.
Sanded down both sides of all rotors
Sanded and repainted exterior of the rear “drum” portions (VHT high temp)
Cleaned and greased the slides
Akebono ACT all 4 corners (FF as they came for this application)
Lots of fluid pumped through
The ACTs, while not my favorite-feeling pad, are excellent on this car, good feel, modulation, and linear stopping power. Confident under a hard stop. Hard to beat. She called my wife and said it’s the best she’s can remember it to stop. I’d be hard-pressed to recommend better.
Brakes had been done by a shop 2 years ago. Friend was complaining of “grabbing and bad.” (She doesn’t have words for this kind of thing.) I’ve known the car to require a lot of pedal force for mediocre stopping.
Threw out the old pads.
Newish front rotors were very good
Oem rear drum/rotors had some wear but not bad.
Old brake fluid looked like a layered parfait - yellow, black and green.
Sanded down both sides of all rotors
Sanded and repainted exterior of the rear “drum” portions (VHT high temp)
Cleaned and greased the slides
Akebono ACT all 4 corners (FF as they came for this application)
Lots of fluid pumped through
The ACTs, while not my favorite-feeling pad, are excellent on this car, good feel, modulation, and linear stopping power. Confident under a hard stop. Hard to beat. She called my wife and said it’s the best she’s can remember it to stop. I’d be hard-pressed to recommend better.
Got rear brakes done on wife's CRV about 2 months ago. Needed pads, rotors and calipers. Also rear wheel bearing. Problem still wasn't solved with pedal feel and squirmy feel. Took it back and this time it was front with everything replaced including calipers. It would pull to the left when braking before evening out then the squirmy feeling again.
Does anyone who is '14 CRVs are known for caliper issues? My guy has told me numerous times that calipers, especially the rear, are known issues. I didn't see anything when I did a quick search. This was the second time we had calipers replaced on the rear. The last time was a few years ago and maybe 20-30k miles. Prior to that for 100k+ miles, never had a caliper replaced.
Does anyone who is '14 CRVs are known for caliper issues? My guy has told me numerous times that calipers, especially the rear, are known issues. I didn't see anything when I did a quick search. This was the second time we had calipers replaced on the rear. The last time was a few years ago and maybe 20-30k miles. Prior to that for 100k+ miles, never had a caliper replaced.
2011 Buick LaCrosse 110k mi
AC Delco Professional/Gold Pads + Bosch fully coated rotors
Been in the family since new and never needed brakes. Fronts were mildly warped, so got a shimmy at higher speed or aggressive braking. Changed the front today and could have easily gotten away with turning or just replacing rotors.
Driver side pad versus new pad after 110k mi.
Driver's side pad top versus passenger side bottom. Still had life in it, but seems odd the passenger side wore quicker.
AC Delco Professional/Gold Pads + Bosch fully coated rotors
Been in the family since new and never needed brakes. Fronts were mildly warped, so got a shimmy at higher speed or aggressive braking. Changed the front today and could have easily gotten away with turning or just replacing rotors.
Driver side pad versus new pad after 110k mi.
Driver's side pad top versus passenger side bottom. Still had life in it, but seems odd the passenger side wore quicker.
Brake bleeder screws snapped off so I just replaced the calipers during brake job along with hoses.
Akebono ultra performance ceramic pads with centric rotors.
Currently rebuilding the back calipers. To put akebono pads and centric rotors in the back.
Akebono ultra performance ceramic pads with centric rotors.
Currently rebuilding the back calipers. To put akebono pads and centric rotors in the back.
My 2017 Mazda 6. 100k miles, 2nd brake job.
Took off r1 concepts ceramic pads and geo-coated rotors. I was never happy with them, installed in 2021 and put about 45k on them. They didn’t have a good bite to them (ever, although cold bite was much worse) and the rotors developed a pulsation after just a few months. Recently they’ve been squealing (while NOT braking). Took them apart to clean and grease and was surprised to find the pad friction material literally separated from the backing plates. The only thing holding them in there was the fact I still had 8 or more /32” remaining so the friction material couldn’t slip out between the rotors and caliper brackets!
Put on: advics pads and raybestos high carbon rotors. Added a touch up coat of black caliper paint and flushed some fresh fluid through the system while I was there too.
I’ve only taken an initial break in test drive and they already grab better. Of course the pulsation is gone too, so that’s an added bonus.
Advics hardware was tremendously better fitting as well. The r1 crap didn’t even cover the entire surface of the caliper brackets where the pads contacted.
Summary: stay away from r1 concepts.
Took off r1 concepts ceramic pads and geo-coated rotors. I was never happy with them, installed in 2021 and put about 45k on them. They didn’t have a good bite to them (ever, although cold bite was much worse) and the rotors developed a pulsation after just a few months. Recently they’ve been squealing (while NOT braking). Took them apart to clean and grease and was surprised to find the pad friction material literally separated from the backing plates. The only thing holding them in there was the fact I still had 8 or more /32” remaining so the friction material couldn’t slip out between the rotors and caliper brackets!
Put on: advics pads and raybestos high carbon rotors. Added a touch up coat of black caliper paint and flushed some fresh fluid through the system while I was there too.
I’ve only taken an initial break in test drive and they already grab better. Of course the pulsation is gone too, so that’s an added bonus.
Advics hardware was tremendously better fitting as well. The r1 crap didn’t even cover the entire surface of the caliper brackets where the pads contacted.
Summary: stay away from r1 concepts.
My 2007 Honda Ridgeline RTS
Odometer: 109,263
Not a DIY project for me, but I had my local indie shop replace the rear rotors and brake pads with a Raybestos Element3 kit. I bought the kit from Rock Auto for $105 including shipping. A nice deal. This is the second replacement set of rear pads and the first rear rotor change out. Still had about a third of the old Honda pad left, but I wanted to do an early replacement
Odometer: 109,263
Not a DIY project for me, but I had my local indie shop replace the rear rotors and brake pads with a Raybestos Element3 kit. I bought the kit from Rock Auto for $105 including shipping. A nice deal. This is the second replacement set of rear pads and the first rear rotor change out. Still had about a third of the old Honda pad left, but I wanted to do an early replacement
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2019 Kia Stinger GT2 38k miles
OEM pads leave deposits on rotors causing vibrations, pads had 6mm left on them (didn't know before taking them off). Decided to change rotors and pads, ordered both, started the job. Pads are very easy on brembos but couldn't get the caliper bolt to move mainly due to lack of space to use breaker bar. Decided to not do the rotors and did the pads only.
OEM pads leave deposits on rotors causing vibrations, pads had 6mm left on them (didn't know before taking them off). Decided to change rotors and pads, ordered both, started the job. Pads are very easy on brembos but couldn't get the caliper bolt to move mainly due to lack of space to use breaker bar. Decided to not do the rotors and did the pads only.
My buddy pointed out it reduces weight and improves your 1/4 mile times, plus more MPG so it's "green"
