Post your latest brake job
- Thread starter BMW Dom
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Rear drums on '06 Silverado 1500 with 6.0. Apparently like the GMT900s with rear drums, the '800s are also heavily rear-biased. Just 93k on this:
The Powerstop kit was incredibly comprehensive including EVERYTHING inside the drums incl all springs and auto-adjuster:
and coated drums (I was servicing due to a pulsing pedal but not felt in steering wheel = rear brakes):
The Powerstop kit was incredibly comprehensive including EVERYTHING inside the drums incl all springs and auto-adjuster:
and coated drums (I was servicing due to a pulsing pedal but not felt in steering wheel = rear brakes):
2018 Kia Soul + at 98,871 miles on odometer
(Friend’s car)
Rear brake pads and rotors
In - Powerstop kit w/z17 evolution pads with fully coated rotors.
Out - Probably kia oem, unknown mileage
Front pads and rotors to be done soon - Same Powerstop kit.
(Friend’s car)
Rear brake pads and rotors
In - Powerstop kit w/z17 evolution pads with fully coated rotors.
Out - Probably kia oem, unknown mileage
Front pads and rotors to be done soon - Same Powerstop kit.
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Powerstop Z36 on both axles of 2014 Ram 3500. Silicone brake lube on all sliders and shims.
Here's to reduced brake dust compared to the TRW stamped nonsense that came off (with >50% pad life remaining.) The mud I washed off the rims on a regular basis was appalling.
Had a real time getting the pistons fully retracted on one of the fronts. Used more clamping force than I am proud of. Will be keeping an eye on that corner.
Here's to reduced brake dust compared to the TRW stamped nonsense that came off (with >50% pad life remaining.) The mud I washed off the rims on a regular basis was appalling.
Had a real time getting the pistons fully retracted on one of the fronts. Used more clamping force than I am proud of. Will be keeping an eye on that corner.
And today that caliper got replaced with a reman unit. Hate to use a parts store reman but 1/2 the cost of getting a new mopar unit shipped from rock auto and I don't have the time. (Family trip pulling the camper next week/weekend.) I reused my old frame and sliders with their caliper. (Their sliders looked horrible.) Mopar dealer was too long a wait and 50% more than rock auto.
The caliper had been working fine, but forcing the pistons in against their will was the end. Must've had a cruddy section in the bore and locked the pistons up bad enough they wouldn't freely retract in normal service. It acted fine on initial drives but last night it drug and overheated on a short trip. First I've had that on a pad slap.
Rotor seems to have survived with only 0.002" lateral runout. New pads seemed salvageable. Will be watching them all with an IR gun. Took a long trip today and all seems well.
Lesson: don't do work on your truck before a big trip. And certainly don't do elective work before a big trip. Who'd a though a pad slap would have had complications.
2005 Toyota Matrix
168k miles
The brakes had some pulsation and the pads wore a little unevenly (pads were rusted to the clips). Rotors are original Toyota units.
Off: whatever came pre-installed on the NAPA reman calipers about 5 years ago.
On: Famous Brand (aka Carquest Platinum) ceramic pads from Rock Auto. Can't beat $8 for top quality pads!
168k miles
The brakes had some pulsation and the pads wore a little unevenly (pads were rusted to the clips). Rotors are original Toyota units.
Off: whatever came pre-installed on the NAPA reman calipers about 5 years ago.
On: Famous Brand (aka Carquest Platinum) ceramic pads from Rock Auto. Can't beat $8 for top quality pads!
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2020 Honda Accord EX
58k miles
Replaced rear pads only
Off: original Honda pads
On: NAPA SilentGuard
The outer pad was near EOL on both sides, inner was a little better. Rotors had no grooves so they ride on. Front pads have about 50% left so they also ride on.
58k miles
Replaced rear pads only
Off: original Honda pads
On: NAPA SilentGuard
The outer pad was near EOL on both sides, inner was a little better. Rotors had no grooves so they ride on. Front pads have about 50% left so they also ride on.
2007 Cadillac CTS
174k miles
Front pads only
OFF: Raybestos EHT
ON: Carquest Platinum ceramic
Fluid: Shop Pro (Autozone) DOT 3
This job started as a simple pad slap but then I had to open the bleeder to compress the calipers (if ya open em ya gotta bleed em). But then I realized that I haven't flushed the fluid in about 3 years so I flushed em, too. So the 1 hour pad slap turned into a 2 hour pad slap + flush. At least the weather was nice (80s) and I didn't need a cooling towel to prevent heat stroke...
174k miles
Front pads only
OFF: Raybestos EHT
ON: Carquest Platinum ceramic
Fluid: Shop Pro (Autozone) DOT 3
This job started as a simple pad slap but then I had to open the bleeder to compress the calipers (if ya open em ya gotta bleed em). But then I realized that I haven't flushed the fluid in about 3 years so I flushed em, too. So the 1 hour pad slap turned into a 2 hour pad slap + flush. At least the weather was nice (80s) and I didn't need a cooling towel to prevent heat stroke...
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Funny enough, I just came here searching to see if there were similar stories. I had posted in the other thread about putting some new rear pads and rotors on my Forester, and how pleased I was with the Bosch QuietCast stuff.
Went to take it to work today and hear a "shush shush shush shush" noise, and figured maybe I just needed to bed them in or get things squeezed a little to be parallel. Well, that didn't happen and so I turned around and its parked back in the driveway until I can get time to pull things apart again.
The rear caliper pistons looked really crusty, and I didn't want to try and push them back flush because I was worried they would tear the boot they were so bad. But I was also replacing the brakes because of the Raybestos EHTs that I had on that were kinda crusty, and assumed I had some rusty wear patterns causing the noise.
Now I wonder if I have a bad caliper or break hose that is the source of my problem, and its just been me ignoring it for too long. I have a reman caliper and new brake hose on order from Orelieys auto parts now to see if that will get it. Ill try to pull things apart again before then just to see if its something I did, or maybe I mushed up the backing plate somehow to cause it to rub on the back side? Anyway, thanks for posting that you had to do some things that might have caused an issue.
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2018 Mk7.5 GTI Performance ~51k miles
front and rear rotors and pads (340x30mm & 310x22mm)
off: factory VW rotors (SHW made) and pads (Jurid 310-A GG and Galfer GA8135 FG)
on: SHW Performance two-piece fully floating rotors (VFX43901, same as VW 5Q0615301P) on front and OE VW (SHW made) on rear with Pagid Street+ pads and some VW hardware
2018 Mk7.5 GTI Performance ~51k miles
front and rear rotors and pads (340x30mm & 310x22mm)
off: factory VW rotors (SHW made) and pads (Jurid 310-A GG and Galfer GA8135 FG)
on: SHW Performance two-piece fully floating rotors (VFX43901, same as VW 5Q0615301P) on front and OE VW (SHW made) on rear with Pagid Street+ pads and some VW hardware
1992 Chevy Blazer K1500
Off: whatever O’Reilly, then Kragen at the time had for rotors, pads and shoes. Stock GM drums.
On: Raybestos EHT pads and rotors. Reman calipers. Raybestos R-line drums, Powerstop shoes, Dorman hardware, adjusters and wheel cylinders.
2019 Lexus RXh, rear pads:
Off: OEM Toyota Akebono pads
On: ditto.
Off: whatever O’Reilly, then Kragen at the time had for rotors, pads and shoes. Stock GM drums.
On: Raybestos EHT pads and rotors. Reman calipers. Raybestos R-line drums, Powerstop shoes, Dorman hardware, adjusters and wheel cylinders.
2019 Lexus RXh, rear pads:
Off: OEM Toyota Akebono pads
On: ditto.
03' Solara. Rear drums. 130k . Some of the shoe pins rusted away from road salt. Installed new ones, bleed and adjust. Thru on a set of new drums since they were original. Shoes are still good ! About 1/2 gone. Wheel cylinders were fine. All other hardware was fine. Not too easy of a brake job. Put a dab of silicone on backing plate where pins go thru to keep the salt out. SALT BELT is terrible. It will find it's way into everything and just start eating.
My QX60, I was experiencing some squeal backing up in the morning, and some strong judder on hard braking from highway speeds. The Raybestos pads were showing 5mm remaining on each pad after 60k kilometres, but the judder and heat zone on the drivers front Element 3 Raybestos rotor made me decide to change all the parts.
On removal, the drivers front outer pad showed some delamination from the backing plate, I could get 9mm of snap blade under the pad surface = source of squeal.
I ordered 2 Bremsen Rotors - coated for our climate and NRS pads from Canada, backing plates fully galvanized steel and the pads are secured by raised barbs dug into the backing plate material. I shouldn't see delamination eh?
Took 2 hours including the test drive. That's the nice thing about doing frequent cleanings of the brake sliders and hardware, the work takes less time next service.
On removal, the drivers front outer pad showed some delamination from the backing plate, I could get 9mm of snap blade under the pad surface = source of squeal.
I ordered 2 Bremsen Rotors - coated for our climate and NRS pads from Canada, backing plates fully galvanized steel and the pads are secured by raised barbs dug into the backing plate material. I shouldn't see delamination eh?
Took 2 hours including the test drive. That's the nice thing about doing frequent cleanings of the brake sliders and hardware, the work takes less time next service.
And your brakes las a LOT longer. People dont realize how much wear and tear happens in the north east due to rust and delamination causing premature brake wear.
1991 Toyota 2WD pickup. Flush only. Waiting on new calipers and soft lines. I presume this is the first flush it ever had. SuperTech DOT 3. Hope it wasn't too soon.
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2008 Accord, fronts.
Out/off: Raybestos Element Hybrid 3 pads and rotors. I liked these just fine, good bite and low dust, but was concerned about the common feedback that Raybestos (First Brands) has gone downhill recently.
In/on: Pagid Silver pads and Brembo Prime (blank) rotors. Very happy with the results. Pad fitment was perfect, no need to file the ears down or anything like that. Nice clips included that fit nicely with no issue either. These rotors have high quality cast cooling fins and are finished well. Good bite like I wanted and installation was a breeze. I’d highly recommend these pads for anybody looking for a new go-to.
Out/off: Raybestos Element Hybrid 3 pads and rotors. I liked these just fine, good bite and low dust, but was concerned about the common feedback that Raybestos (First Brands) has gone downhill recently.
In/on: Pagid Silver pads and Brembo Prime (blank) rotors. Very happy with the results. Pad fitment was perfect, no need to file the ears down or anything like that. Nice clips included that fit nicely with no issue either. These rotors have high quality cast cooling fins and are finished well. Good bite like I wanted and installation was a breeze. I’d highly recommend these pads for anybody looking for a new go-to.
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4
Rear Brakes
Off - Factory
On - Power Stop Evolution pads & Durango rotors from Rock Auto.
Rear Brakes
Off - Factory
On - Power Stop Evolution pads & Durango rotors from Rock Auto.
2008 CR-V 130x miles. Powerstop Evolution pads and rotors. Lug nuts were way over tightened and one was cross threaded; it broke off.
These lugs cannot be hammered off due to axle clearance. Need to grind a flat. I told my friend to bring it back and I will install the rears; I will grind the lug at that time. Never done this before...
These lugs cannot be hammered off due to axle clearance. Need to grind a flat. I told my friend to bring it back and I will install the rears; I will grind the lug at that time. Never done this before...
Hub needs to be removed on some Honda’s to replace the studs.
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