Hi all--'99 Escort 4-banger turns on the check engine light about every 100 miles. Not so trusted mechanic says my catalytic converter is beginning to clog. Is is possible to clean them by running solvent through? Bought some Cataclean ($) and have run three bottles through, but no change. Before I just start changing things out, any ideas?
Possible to clean a cat?
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This guys seems to think so:
What is the code associated with the check engine light?
I would think you would have a better chance of cleaning it on the car by using seafoam or something (maybe water) through the intake on a warmed up engine/cat.
In tank additives probably burn up too well to do any good in the exhaust.
I would think you would have a better chance of cleaning it on the car by using seafoam or something (maybe water) through the intake on a warmed up engine/cat.
In tank additives probably burn up too well to do any good in the exhaust.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
How long a trip do you usually do?
Get the thing HOT! Let it burn the [censored] off. So, get out on the highway and drive it at 75 for a good hour or so.
or 95 if u can...
If it will even go 95...
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
How long a trip do you usually do?
Get the thing HOT! Let it burn the [censored] off. So, get out on the highway and drive it at 75 for a good hour or so.
or 95 if u can...
If it will even go 95...
Yeah, possible. But not guaranteed. I'm 3-4
Originally Posted By: SilentJonSays
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
How long a trip do you usually do?
Get the thing HOT! Let it burn the [censored] off. So, get out on the highway and drive it at 75 for a good hour or so.
or 95 if u can...
If it will even go 95...
Hahaha
Get that thing off of the autobahn!!
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
How long a trip do you usually do?
Get the thing HOT! Let it burn the [censored] off. So, get out on the highway and drive it at 75 for a good hour or so.
or 95 if u can...
If it will even go 95...
Hahaha
Get that thing off of the autobahn!!
With 3 bottles of Cataclean ( what $30 each x3 =$90!!)
Could have had a big headstart to a new converter at that point.Prestolite should be ashamed of themselves selling that stuff in the US...how can a burning fuel additive heat up enough to clean out a cat,without overheating the engine and ruining head gaskets/piston tops?
Could have had a big headstart to a new converter at that point.Prestolite should be ashamed of themselves selling that stuff in the US...how can a burning fuel additive heat up enough to clean out a cat,without overheating the engine and ruining head gaskets/piston tops?
not sure i have much respect for scotty kilmer. he CONSISTENTLY ignores proper torque specs. this is a basic tenant that a professional should never break. often his videos are just little tidbits as well. i respect that he takes a little bit of time out of his day to make a video, but less bling and more filler would be nice from him.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
A professional mechanic can develop a calibrated hand with experience. Most of them do not use torque wrench for routine jobs.
show me factual numbers where ignoring torque spec's is a good thing then i might believe you.
A professional mechanic can develop a calibrated hand with experience. Most of them do not use torque wrench for routine jobs.
show me factual numbers where ignoring torque spec's is a good thing then i might believe you.
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Originally Posted By: Vikas
A professional mechanic can develop a calibrated hand with experience. Most of them do not use torque wrench for routine jobs.
show me factual numbers where ignoring torque spec's is a good thing then i might believe you.
Obviously, one needs to torque fasteners correctly. However, as an experienced tech, sometimes the drag torque varies wildly. It seems silly to measure the drag torque on each fastener that holds on a plastic belly tray-drip pan. Experience shows that simply ensuring the fasteners are tight, by hand, is sufficient.
I could, for example, set the required torque on the driver, and 1/2 the fasteners would bind, half way in. The plastic belly pan, would then be improperly installed. Or, I could run the fastener in, by hand, when it gets tight, measure the drag torque, add it to the required torque and try again. Only to have it bind some more as it's going in. (this seems silly for such a non critical item, subject to corrosion, poor manufacturing tolerances and so on, no? )
Or, I can simply tighten it, by feel, until it's properly seated.
Doing so carefully will ensure a lifetime of use, without problems.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
A professional mechanic can develop a calibrated hand with experience. Most of them do not use torque wrench for routine jobs.
show me factual numbers where ignoring torque spec's is a good thing then i might believe you.
Obviously, one needs to torque fasteners correctly. However, as an experienced tech, sometimes the drag torque varies wildly. It seems silly to measure the drag torque on each fastener that holds on a plastic belly tray-drip pan. Experience shows that simply ensuring the fasteners are tight, by hand, is sufficient.
I could, for example, set the required torque on the driver, and 1/2 the fasteners would bind, half way in. The plastic belly pan, would then be improperly installed. Or, I could run the fastener in, by hand, when it gets tight, measure the drag torque, add it to the required torque and try again. Only to have it bind some more as it's going in. (this seems silly for such a non critical item, subject to corrosion, poor manufacturing tolerances and so on, no? )
Or, I can simply tighten it, by feel, until it's properly seated.
Doing so carefully will ensure a lifetime of use, without problems.
Last edited:
Possible to clean a cat?
Last time I tried to wash a cat I got all clawed up haha.
Last time I tried to wash a cat I got all clawed up haha.
Google "cleaning a catalytic converter".
You will find that a warm citric acid solution will remove contaminates.
The general method is to take the cat-con and submerse it, overnight, in a mild, 180 degree f, citric acid solution. Then wash it out with a hose. This removes surface contamination, the general reason for cat-con failure. The precious metals are left intact on the internal structure. Looks to have a 90% success rate.
You will find that a warm citric acid solution will remove contaminates.
The general method is to take the cat-con and submerse it, overnight, in a mild, 180 degree f, citric acid solution. Then wash it out with a hose. This removes surface contamination, the general reason for cat-con failure. The precious metals are left intact on the internal structure. Looks to have a 90% success rate.
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Google "cleaning a catalytic converter".
You will find that a warm citric acid solution will remove contaminates.
The general method is to take the cat-con and submerse it, overnight, in a mild, 180 degree f, citric acid solution. Then wash it out with a hose. This removes surface contamination, the general reason for cat-con failure. The precious metals are left intact on the internal structure. Looks to have a 90% success rate.
Yep! Dunk, pressure rinse, drip dry, reinstall. It works for quite a while. But not as long as new, IMO the reason for that is poisoning of the catalyst. but I'm not sure. One I could not clean, appeared to be melted. I don't see how anything combusted through the engine would be successful. the lacquer thinner (maybe cataclean too?) increase temps in hopes to burn it off. The one I cleaned that was melted was the one I tried that method with. I'm not saying don't do that, would need to try lacquer thinner several times to rule out a fluke.
More variables are the catalyst efficiency programmed into the ECU, the factory catalyst media, and the o2 sensors. For example Toyota, the efficiency is programmed to trip a CEL at 90% (still good). so a cleaning may not be as effective, and the only option is to replace or increase catalyst efficiency by modding the exhaust with a $5 spark plug non-fouler. That basically moves the 02 sensor out of the exhaust a little, puts out the P0420. I've had one on the Camry for 4 years now. No return of the P0420. a simple fix to an expensive problem.
Google "cleaning a catalytic converter".
You will find that a warm citric acid solution will remove contaminates.
The general method is to take the cat-con and submerse it, overnight, in a mild, 180 degree f, citric acid solution. Then wash it out with a hose. This removes surface contamination, the general reason for cat-con failure. The precious metals are left intact on the internal structure. Looks to have a 90% success rate.
Yep! Dunk, pressure rinse, drip dry, reinstall. It works for quite a while. But not as long as new, IMO the reason for that is poisoning of the catalyst. but I'm not sure. One I could not clean, appeared to be melted. I don't see how anything combusted through the engine would be successful. the lacquer thinner (maybe cataclean too?) increase temps in hopes to burn it off. The one I cleaned that was melted was the one I tried that method with. I'm not saying don't do that, would need to try lacquer thinner several times to rule out a fluke.
More variables are the catalyst efficiency programmed into the ECU, the factory catalyst media, and the o2 sensors. For example Toyota, the efficiency is programmed to trip a CEL at 90% (still good). so a cleaning may not be as effective, and the only option is to replace or increase catalyst efficiency by modding the exhaust with a $5 spark plug non-fouler. That basically moves the 02 sensor out of the exhaust a little, puts out the P0420. I've had one on the Camry for 4 years now. No return of the P0420. a simple fix to an expensive problem.
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Originally Posted By: Vikas
A professional mechanic can develop a calibrated hand with experience. Most of them do not use torque wrench for routine jobs.
show me factual numbers where ignoring torque spec's is a good thing then i might believe you.
Obviously, one needs to torque fasteners correctly. However, as an experienced tech, sometimes the drag torque varies wildly. It seems silly to measure the drag torque on each fastener that holds on a plastic belly tray-drip pan. Experience shows that simply ensuring the fasteners are tight, by hand, is sufficient.
I could, for example, set the required torque on the driver, and 1/2 the fasteners would bind, half way in. The plastic belly pan, would then be improperly installed. Or, I could run the fastener in, by hand, when it gets tight, measure the drag torque, add it to the required torque and try again. Only to have it bind some more as it's going in. (this seems silly for such a non critical item, subject to corrosion, poor manufacturing tolerances and so on, no? )
Or, I can simply tighten it, by feel, until it's properly seated.
Doing so carefully will ensure a lifetime of use, without problems.
Yep. A good mechanic does not need a torque wrench all the time. Like when tightening strut knuckle bolts. They need to be tight. Alternator bolts stuff like that is by feel . I've compared myself to a wrench and am usually pretty close.
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Originally Posted By: Vikas
A professional mechanic can develop a calibrated hand with experience. Most of them do not use torque wrench for routine jobs.
show me factual numbers where ignoring torque spec's is a good thing then i might believe you.
Obviously, one needs to torque fasteners correctly. However, as an experienced tech, sometimes the drag torque varies wildly. It seems silly to measure the drag torque on each fastener that holds on a plastic belly tray-drip pan. Experience shows that simply ensuring the fasteners are tight, by hand, is sufficient.
I could, for example, set the required torque on the driver, and 1/2 the fasteners would bind, half way in. The plastic belly pan, would then be improperly installed. Or, I could run the fastener in, by hand, when it gets tight, measure the drag torque, add it to the required torque and try again. Only to have it bind some more as it's going in. (this seems silly for such a non critical item, subject to corrosion, poor manufacturing tolerances and so on, no? )
Or, I can simply tighten it, by feel, until it's properly seated.
Doing so carefully will ensure a lifetime of use, without problems.
Yep. A good mechanic does not need a torque wrench all the time. Like when tightening strut knuckle bolts. They need to be tight. Alternator bolts stuff like that is by feel . I've compared myself to a wrench and am usually pretty close.
Is your code 'Catalyst Efficiency below threshold' by any chance? This code is set when the switching rate of the rear O2 reaches a certain percentage of the switch rate of the front sensor, the actual percentage varies by vehicle and exhaust design. Leaky exhaust can also set this condition. Converters simply wear out, the Platinum and Palladium just gets used up. Using an Infra red thermometer, you can measure the temps immediately before and after the cat. If you change the cat, change the O2 sensors, they get slow with age.
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