Plumbing re-routing? Water heater

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Jun 13, 2016
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131
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AZ
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I am replacing this leaking water heater and I really needed the larger size as we run out. Problem is it’s 6” taller… and these outlets will be in the way

Would it seem like a hack job to unsolder these, put a 90 degree bend upwards and then put a new copper flex pipe going to the new heater?

Or any other suggestions for cleanest install?
 
Well... It depends on how deep into you want to go. If space is at a premium and you have to 'hug" the wall tight, then a larger (taller unit) will most likely be in the way of any added plumbing. If not, then you certainly could proceed as you mentioned. Another option would be to open-up the drywall and go up from there.
More work but ascetically pleasing. You have textured drywall so matching seams/ mud would be very easy. Overall... it depends on your competency level and how long you can go without hot water.
 
Maybe you’re right - gut the drywall and move it up might be the best approach…

I am getting a heat pump water heater so it wouldn’t be strange to have it away from the wall slightly as more airflow the better.

Thoughts on shark bite fittings?
 
Maybe you’re right - gut the drywall and move it up might be the best approach…

I am getting a heat pump water heater so it wouldn’t be strange to have it away from the wall slightly as more airflow the better.

Thoughts on shark bite fittings?
if you know how to solder to me that is the best method. i use sharkbites only for emergency temp repairs . is there an expansion tank we do see?
 
if you know how to solder to me that is the best method. i use sharkbites only for emergency temp repairs . is there an expansion tank we do see?
No expansion tank, I do not believe I have anything that stops the water flowing backwards to the main line and hence won’t need one
 
No expansion tank, I do not believe I have anything that stops the water flowing backwards to the main line and hence won’t need one
those are 2 different things . one is a back flow preventer and the other is a expansion tank . most places require them as code these days

 
I had a plumber come out in 2021 and he brought the T&P up to code but that was it I assume if I needed one they would have upsold it
ChatGPT says my area only requires one if I have a back flow preventer which I don’t
 
Maybe you’re right - gut the drywall and move it up might be the best approach…

I am getting a heat pump water heater so it wouldn’t be strange to have it away from the wall slightly as more airflow the better.

Thoughts on shark bite fittings?
+1 on cutting the drywall.

Plumbers kind of frown on shark bite fittings and will sweat or crimp copper.

The air flow for my heat pump water heat is straight up.

I had a plumber install my heat pump water heater mainly because it was 300+ lbs. Too much for me to wrestle into place.
 
Would it seem like a hack job to unsolder these, put a 90 degree bend upwards and then put a new copper flex pipe going to the new heater?
without cutting the wall, under your circumstances, it is the only way. best would be to cutbthe wall and move the pipes up.
 
Replace those lines and use dielectric couplers at the tank so you don't get all that corrosion on all your connections. Looks worse than my car's battery.
 
I’m thinking of getting a powered anode rod upgrade to drop in as well - thoughts there?
 
I’m thinking of getting a powered anode rod upgrade to drop in as well - thoughts there?
The anode rod is what really is staving off interior corrosion......powered anode rod.....ehhhh.....maybe.

A few suggestions for long water heater life:

1.) Yearly, use the bottom drain on the water heater to flush nasties that settle on the bottom. Do not turn the water heater feed off or the power, just hook a hose to the drain, and under pressure, flush it out. a minute a year should be ok.

2.) Water quality dependent........check the status of the anode rod. They are the sacrificial goat, and once they are eaten, the next thing is the tank..........3 years is what I recommend as the first interval, unless your water is bad. A little penetrating oil before hand helps with the removal. No need to drain the tank 100%, just a little.

Beyond those two things, it is up in the air.
 
The anode rod is what really is staving off interior corrosion......powered anode rod.....ehhhh.....maybe.

A few suggestions for long water heater life:

1.) Yearly, use the bottom drain on the water heater to flush nasties that settle on the bottom. Do not turn the water heater feed off or the power, just hook a hose to the drain, and under pressure, flush it out. a minute a year should be ok.

2.) Water quality dependent........check the status of the anode rod. They are the sacrificial goat, and once they are eaten, the next thing is the tank..........3 years is what I recommend as the first interval, unless your water is bad. A little penetrating oil before hand helps with the removal. No need to drain the tank 100%, just a little.

Beyond those two things, it is up in the air.
I do read a lot that the powered anode rods work differently and nearly stop corrosion…I have very hard water here and the regular anode rods only last 2-3 years is my understanding hence wondering if stepping up to the powered rod makes sense?
 
I do read a lot that the powered anode rods work differently and nearly stop corrosion…I have very hard water here and the regular anode rods only last 2-3 years is my understanding hence wondering if stepping up to the powered rod makes sense?
I have no data to back up whether or not in YOUR water conditions, an anode rod would last X years..........nor could I assume that an electric one would last any longer than a normal rod.

IMO, take that how you will......plumbing needs to be as simple as possible. Anode rods are tried an true, I suggest sticking with the typical.

Either way you decide, the water heater will not last forever.........the above suggestions I gave will give the best life possibilities.

Do you have a water softener? That alone will increase the life your you system and appliances. Might want to look into that.
 
While at it, I would plumb in the whole house filter and water softener, or at least make a provision for it. If you’re gonna get into it, may as well do it all in one go IMO.

Otherwise there is really no wrong approach. It’s all up to you how far you want to take it. Personally I wouldn’t sweat it how it looks, as long as it all functions how it should.

P.S.
That’s why I didn’t share my recent water softener installation, it doesn’t look great, but works like it should.
 
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