Plumbing Question - Sink Drain - What am I seeing here and how to deal with.

[DuckRyder]

This is a bathroom sink drain.

I think this is a chrome metal pipe sweated into a reducer bushing.

How would one normally go about removing this, thinking i need one of those drain tools that looks like big ez-out?

I've got two more of these to deal with and the other two are not nearly as accessible.

 

[wwillson]

I'll bet @burbguy82 would know.

 

[wsar10]

Its really hard to tell by the image...
It looks like the top part is steel, with a bushing threaded into it flush maybe, then the drain line threaded into that.
Top me the top part looks like CI or steel, so it would not have anything soldered to it.

Or I could be way off and its a compression fit setup that slid together at installation, but it looks a bit old for that.

Just hard to say without seeing it in person...

If you need a way out, remember that it a low pressure line and you could FernCo coupler onto it with CPVC. IF you do end up using a Fernco on the chrome pipe I would rough it up with sand paper and maybe even use CPVC primer as your sliding the coupler on and tightening the clamp. As an unintended outcome, the primer will dry and help hold.

 

[burbguy82]

It is undoubtedly a "tap tee" of some size, likely 2x2x1-1\2 IPS thread, but could be 2'' IPS thread. I am not sure by the picture if it is lead or something else like an epoxy.

Get a screwdriver and gouge out a bit of material around the chrome tube. And take another picture. Lead is soft, and it will be shiny when you gouge it. Very soft.

Anyway, for a quick answer, lead is removed by heat. It is really the only feasible way. Propane torch with work, but MAPP is faster if you dont already have a torch.

Take a few steps back and take another picture, to give a better idea of what you are working with to advise further.

 

[DuckRyder]

Ill get more pictures tomorrow.

Pretty sure the "t" is cast iron (lotta cast iron left in the house.) it is threaded where it transitions from black to silver, i don't think the chrome is threaded into the silver. I'm also pretty sure the slightest exertion of force on the chrome will have it crumble...

 

[burbguy82]

Ill get more pictures tomorrow.

Pretty sure the "t" is cast iron (lotta cast iron left in the house.) it is threaded where it transitions from black to silver, i don't think the chrome is threaded into the silver. I'm also pretty sure the slightest exertion of force on the chrome will have it crumble...

Correct, the tap tee is leaded cast iron. Try the gouging i spoke of earlier and report back. I assume you own a sawzall? If not i think you will need one, and a Diable cast iron tungsten carbide blade......but lets stick with the pictures first. I probably wont answer back until tomorrow afternoon.

Yes, the chrome plate steel or likely brass is going to be pretty fragile.

If you cant wait for further instruction, it can be as "simple" as melting the lead out of the joint, cleaning the threads with a hard steel brush and COTTON rag.......... screwing in the nessessary adapter and converting to PVC. The next way is to cut the tee out, and replace it with PVC.

Depends on skill level. If you decide to try melting, before we speak next, have a spray bottle handy with water. just in case.

 

[facility1]

you maybe able to dig the lead out, and under this maybe oakum packing, be careful to try to meld it our, sewer gas,( methane) can be flammable/combustable ,,,,,or as mentioned above if the joint is sound, get a fernco and just spice a pvc nip on end and go from there,

 

[DuckRyder]

More pictures including the other side.

Pretty sure it isn't lead, i cant dig a occulting tool blade into it, it looks maybe brass it seems to have pipe dope on it, or did until i went to scraping.

 

[burbguy82]

More pictures including the other side.

Pretty sure it isn't lead, i cant dig a occulting tool blade into it, it looks maybe brass it seems to have pipe dope on it, or did until i went to scraping.

Ok, so that is a 2x2x1.5x1.5'' Sanitary Cross, or double tee. It is tapped on both sides. Which is to say it is threaded.

So, if it is not lead, I am not sure what it could be......probably whatever concoction someone had.............is still think it might be lead under there.........hard to tell without being there.

With heat, you should be able to remove whatever is there, back down to the threads.................

If that does not suit your fancy, you will need to replace it with a new fitting. If it was me, I would just cut it out and replace it with new, but I am a professional.....not sure of your skill level.

One tip: secure the vent pipe solidly with wood or strap or both, to ensure that when you cut the pipe, the vertical vent pipe does not slide down.......cut the pipe under the tee first.........give yourself about 2 inches of pipe from the lowest point if possible. Above maybe 6 inches above the tee. Cut nice and easy. A slow blade will but better in metal than a fast blade.

A standard metal blade will work with the galvanized pipe, not cast iron.

List:

2x2x1.5x1.5" sanitary tee
1 foot, 2 inch pvc
1 foot, 1.5 inch pvc
2, 2'' no hub bands...... do not use Fernco all rubber bands, you are looking for bands with metal shields, tighten to 60 inch pounds, or as tight as you can get with your nutdriver by hand.....
glue and primer, or glue and some sandpaper will work


let me know if you have more questions.

doing this yourself will save you about $600.

 

[KJSmith]

I'm not the expert here, but it looks like they soldered that onto a brass drain plug.

I bet you can get that to screw back out....might be a bit of work though.

 

[burbguy82]

looks like they soldered that onto a brass drain plug.

This is correct, kind of.

There are many ways to accomplish that style of connection, one of which is a "miracle ring or marvel ring". it it brass, male thread to outside OD pipe adapter. It makes a bit of a "nipple"

problem is, dissimilar metals in a wet environment become nearly impossible to separate with out heat....and even then, the torque needed to remove the thing is more than the pipe can withstand without failing.

this is why i would just cut it out

who know over the years what has been done sonce original.

getting it out has a slim chance of success, and yield the ability to connect back to suit again with out heat, about 500 degree through out.

The chances of sewer gas exploding is about 0%

 

[burbguy82]

normally, if one HAS TO removed the male threaded fitting or pipe, it must be cut out surgically and tapped out with a hammer and flatscrewdriver.

if one doe decided to cut it out of the female socket, i recommend cutting at the top, since you will damage some threads in the process, and damaged female threads on the rop will not create a leak, mesed up threads on the bottom will, however

 

[DuckRyder]

More pictures later.

Hit it with Mapp gas and the chrome piece came out of the brass bushing...

I really don't want to cut the whole connection out - I will if I have to, but id rather not...

got sawzall, ocilating tool die grinder and dremel, but think im going to go at it with a hand hacksaw as burbguy82 detailed...

 

[burbguy82]

More pictures later.

Hit it with Mapp gas and the chrome piece came out of the brass bushing...

I really don't want to cut the whole connection out - I will if I have to, but id rather not...

got sawzall, ocilating tool die grinder and dremel, but think im going to go at it with a hand hacksaw as burbguy82 detailed...

if you can stick a rag inside, tied to a piece of wire, and stuff it inside the pipe, to prevent debris from falling into the pipe.

good luck

 

[DuckRyder]

OK one more thing before i destroy the bushing/reducer.

Any chance i could find new brass or copper pipe to sweat in? Box stores are a no go naturally.

Go easy on me about the copper work, it isn't the prettiest but it wont leak and in my defense it looks better than most of the other work...

 

[burbguy82]

OK one more thing before i destroy the bushing/reducer.

Any chance i could find new brass or copper pipe to sweat in? Box stores are a no go naturally.

Go easy on me about the copper work, it isn't the prettiest but it wont leak and in my defense it looks better than most of the other work...

the pipe you removed is either 1.25 or 1.5 inch tubular......there is no replacement, other that what you just removed.

if you can look into the cast iron fitting now, do you see threads? if so, it is best the remove the ring and thread in an adapter.

you have past the point of no return. fear not, you are almost there.

cut the top or the ring and pry easily. it will work 99%

if murphy law persists there is a plan b.

report back with ring removed.

 

[burbguy82]

the pipe you removed is either 1.25 or 1.5 inch tubular......there is no replacement, other that what you just removed.

if you can look into the cast iron fitting now, do you see threads? if so, it is best the remove the ring and thread in an adapter.

you have past the point of no return. fear not, you are almost there.

cut the top or the ring and pry easily. it will work 99%

if murphy law persists there is a plan b.

report back with ring removed.

how high off the floor are those drain stub outs? about 10"? are they going into cabinets?

 

[DuckRyder]

They are about 14-15" off the floor for the drains. One side (the one we've been discussing) will go into a vanity.

The other (I have turned the pipe) into a sink base.

It had a little bar sink there which is why it had an 45. What started this whole little thing was moving the valves so they would be in the sink base... but when i started looking at it all - including the sharkbite someone sealed in the wall - i just decided to do re do it all....

I'll be back, haven't sawed yet working on copper... gotta redo the washer connections now...

Every day I find something the PO did or had done that just makes me SMH....

 

[Nukeman7]

OK one more thing before i destroy the bushing/reducer.

Any chance i could find new brass or copper pipe to sweat in? Box stores are a no go naturally.

Go easy on me about the copper work, it isn't the prettiest but it wont leak and in my defense it looks better than most of the other work...

Both are available on Amazon and in pro plumbing supply stores. I'd suggest using copper in the Type K rating since it is thicker than Type L or M.

1.5" and 1.25" Hard Copper Tubing

 

[burbguy82]

Both are available on Amazon and in pro plumbing supply stores. I'd suggest using copper in the Type K rating since it is thicker than Type L or M.

1.5" and 1.25" Hard Copper Tubing

This is incorrect. Tubular sizes are different than CTS sizes, or IPS sizes.

It could be done, with some customization, but would not be proper by any standard.