place to buy stranded electrical wire cheap ?
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Well what do you need? Do you require a special marine wire that is corrosion resistant or something? Or standard THHN house wire?
Boats need marine grade wire.
genuinedealz dot com.
good prices, free fast shipping
good prices, free fast shipping
DelCity has some marine grade stuff and they have good prices.
sorry, i should have stated primary wire.
Looking for regular stranded primary wire with pvc insulation, the same thing any oem boat maker or car maker uses.
Not a fan of thhn, and that's no good for oil resistance.
and i don't want tinned wire, or anything marked up as marine grade.
Looking for regular stranded primary wire with pvc insulation, the same thing any oem boat maker or car maker uses.
Not a fan of thhn, and that's no good for oil resistance.
and i don't want tinned wire, or anything marked up as marine grade.
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
sorry, i should have stated primary wire.
Looking for regular stranded primary wire with pvc insulation, the same thing any oem boat maker or car maker uses.
Not a fan of thhn, and that's no good for oil resistance.
and i don't want tinned wire, or anything marked up as marine grade.
A lot of the THHN that I've seen has been marked "Oil and Gas Resistant".
sorry, i should have stated primary wire.
Looking for regular stranded primary wire with pvc insulation, the same thing any oem boat maker or car maker uses.
Not a fan of thhn, and that's no good for oil resistance.
and i don't want tinned wire, or anything marked up as marine grade.
A lot of the THHN that I've seen has been marked "Oil and Gas Resistant".
GPT, general purpose thermoplastic, is the most common auto primary wire and is availbale from DelCity.
My apologies 1FMF. Re-direct this back on topic as you see fit.
Are you going to use soldered joints or crimped?
Are you going to use soldered joints or crimped?
apologies for what? I have thick skin so whatever you said i can take it.
as for soldered or crimped, that depends on how much beer i have, the weather, and the mood i'm in. if i do gauge panels and doing it at home on a bench then i'll solder wires to the ring terminals. I can tell you from experience over the years that soldering the wires to the bilge pump and shrink tubing it is the way to go even if you ensure that connection never gets underwater. The pre-tinned wire eventually corrodes too so it's not worth the extra expense, at best it solders really nice and you don't need flux.
as for soldered or crimped, that depends on how much beer i have, the weather, and the mood i'm in. if i do gauge panels and doing it at home on a bench then i'll solder wires to the ring terminals. I can tell you from experience over the years that soldering the wires to the bilge pump and shrink tubing it is the way to go even if you ensure that connection never gets underwater. The pre-tinned wire eventually corrodes too so it's not worth the extra expense, at best it solders really nice and you don't need flux.
if you you need a crimper dorman has good one at a good price, at advanced auto amout $17.xx pt no 86263. how ever there are other good ones. but the dorman is very good for the price. my friend uses his a lot and says it is the best he has ever used.
marine wire, but if you're not looking for tinned, I'd suggest searching ebay for txl wire. It seems one can get 500 feet of 14 awg txl (or gxl) wire for $65 plus shipping on ebay. The 18 and 12 awg I bought a long time ago is bare copper as well (the 12 awg gxl is some thick insulation; hard to strip even good strippers, ridiculous in my opinion, but the seller didn't have any 12 txl at the time. I'd recommend the txl)
Originally Posted By: 1 FMF
apologies for what? I have thick skin so whatever you said i can take it.
I didn't say anything bad about you, but I can make something up if you want!
I was apologizing ahead of time for taking the thread sideways a bit by asking about crimps vs. solder. The marine forums argue this ad nauseum and I was curious about your stand on this. i.e., http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/40595-crimping-versus-soldering-2.html
My understanding is that soldering must be done skillfully or you can have results worse than crimps. It's kind of like how many people assume torque wrenches ensure best results.
Soldering and non tinned wire seem to go against the ABYC codes, but I have NO experience in this subject. Just curious.
Take care and good luck on your wire hunt.
apologies for what? I have thick skin so whatever you said i can take it.
I didn't say anything bad about you, but I can make something up if you want!
I was apologizing ahead of time for taking the thread sideways a bit by asking about crimps vs. solder. The marine forums argue this ad nauseum and I was curious about your stand on this. i.e., http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/40595-crimping-versus-soldering-2.html
My understanding is that soldering must be done skillfully or you can have results worse than crimps. It's kind of like how many people assume torque wrenches ensure best results.
Soldering and non tinned wire seem to go against the ABYC codes, but I have NO experience in this subject. Just curious.
Take care and good luck on your wire hunt.
most people don't know what they are talking about when it comes to boats, they rationalize some whacky stuff.
If non-tinned wire was against ABYC codes then all boat makers are going against abyc codes because i have not seen any installed by the boat builder- my 2002 bayliner, and a grady white to be specific. tinned wire is aftermarket, and deceptively marketed.
if you can crimp a wire connector you can solder. there's not much skill needed, or if a person thinks it requires skill then they probably shouldn't be operating a boat to begin with. The ideal way is to do a regular crimp on a tinned connector then hit it with solder over the copper wire. A 60/40 tin/lead solder is highly corrosion resistant and will prevent corrosion from creeping in between the crimp. and a solder connection is far stronger, stronger than the copper wire itself.
If non-tinned wire was against ABYC codes then all boat makers are going against abyc codes because i have not seen any installed by the boat builder- my 2002 bayliner, and a grady white to be specific. tinned wire is aftermarket, and deceptively marketed.
if you can crimp a wire connector you can solder. there's not much skill needed, or if a person thinks it requires skill then they probably shouldn't be operating a boat to begin with. The ideal way is to do a regular crimp on a tinned connector then hit it with solder over the copper wire. A 60/40 tin/lead solder is highly corrosion resistant and will prevent corrosion from creeping in between the crimp. and a solder connection is far stronger, stronger than the copper wire itself.
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