Cost to Heat and Cool our New Home = CHEAP

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North Carolina Coast
I see posts and the mention of new construction homes. I would suggest a lower cost state and a builder like national production builders Lennar who formulate their construction on energy efficiency.

Now in our new home just over one year. It is a smaller home vs our last one, just my wife and I @1800 sq ft
HVAC is a heat pump. Hot Water Gas, Gas Cooktop, Electric Oven and a gas fireplace. (gas is propane)
Sidewalls have R-15, Attic oh heck I dont know, a LOT, r31 at least. Low E windows. Low flow and high efficiency fixtures and toilets.
(and the toilets work incredible somehow)

There is also an air infiltration certification done by an independent agency and the test results are posted on our electric panel. I have no idea what it means other than it must be good. Never took the time to look into it. Also because the home is air tight (I guess) the main HVAC air return duct has an intake outside air duct under the air filter within the main return duct that opens up and lets outside air in when the unit turns on which has its own 6inch x 6inch filter to filter that air.

It is STUPID cheap for energy. I literally laugh to myself typing this because I just added up one years electric bill. 12 months = $1,190. including all the other charges, Base of 29.75 a month taxes etc)
Less than $100 a month in a home where we NEVER open the windows. That is heat or air-conditioning every day of the year.
I still cant wrap my head around how cheap and the way the house is designed seems so efficient. Anyway, very happy. Though our last home was new (now 16 years old) 3000 sq ft and new when we bought it too. So taking a step down to the smaller home and newer standards is a big difference.

Example, warm weather we do turn the thermostat down at night in the summer to 72 while we sleep and for the most part 75 but up to 77 during the daytime. Well, sometimes it takes half a day or more (by dinner time) for the house to get up to that 75 to 77 before the AC clicks on. It still is early in the year and the ground cool but it gives an idea.

Winter we set the stat at 73 while awake and 65 while we sleep. We used to have it go lower but found out with this heat pump on a 24 degree day it's not as efficient trying to get from nighttime temps to daytime.

I still look for ways to get it lower but do not think that is possible.

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I set the ac at 78 during the day and 76 at night... The heat is set to 64 in the winter..I have gas heat...
 
Ok I feel you there as I when we built our new home in 2014 with all the energy perks including radiant barriers etc and we were amazed how inexpensive it was to heat and cool vs our old 1996 built home. Even with Texas 100 day weather streaks for days and days we had an electric bill of like $200 (note this is with 2 hvac units 3300sq ft) vs our older home where it would have been double+ that. But shortly after somebody got into office the bills are not so cheap anymore (double the cost!!) and it has nothing to do with energy efficient features. Basically our gov't is eating your energy savings but you are still ahead just not as much!
 
I think I remember @Zee09 posting his electric bill at somewhere around 40 or 50 dollars. He had installed some new heat pumps?
 
I set the ac at 78 during the day and 76 at night... The heat is set to 64 in the winter..I have gas heat...
68F in the summer and 64F in the winter. My wife has been on Tamoxifen for almost 5 years and it causes hot flashes. Is it sweltering in here (as she throws off the covers in the middle of the night)? No, honey, it's 63F and I'm in the fetal position and I can't fee my fingers or toes.
 
I see posts and the mention of new construction homes. I would suggest a lower cost state and a builder like national production builders Lennar who formulate their construction on energy efficiency.

Now in our new home just over one year. It is a smaller home vs our last one, just my wife and I @1800 sq ft
HVAC is a heat pump. Hot Water Gas, Gas Cooktop, Electric Oven and a gas fireplace. (gas is propane)
Sidewalls have R-15, Attic oh heck I dont know, a LOT, r31 at least. Low E windows. Low flow and high efficiency fixtures and toilets.
(and the toilets work incredible somehow)

There is also an air infiltration certification done by an independent agency and the test results are posted on our electric panel. I have no idea what it means other than it must be good. Never took the time to look into it. Also because the home is air tight (I guess) the main HVAC air return duct has an intake outside air duct under the air filter within the main return duct that opens up and lets outside air in when the unit turns on which has its own 6inch x 6inch filter to filter that air.

It is STUPID cheap for energy. I literally laugh to myself typing this because I just added up one years electric bill. 12 months = $1,190. including all the other charges, Base of 29.75 a month taxes etc)
Less than $100 a month in a home where we NEVER open the windows. That is heat or air-conditioning every day of the year.
I still cant wrap my head around how cheap and the way the house is designed seems so efficient. Anyway, very happy. Though our last home was new (now 16 years old) 3000 sq ft and new when we bought it too. So taking a step down to the smaller home and newer standards is a big difference.

Example, warm weather we do turn the thermostat down at night in the summer to 72 while we sleep and for the most part 75 but up to 77 during the daytime. Well, sometimes it takes half a day or more (by dinner time) for the house to get up to that 75 to 77 before the AC clicks on. It still is early in the year and the ground cool but it gives an idea.

Winter we set the stat at 73 while awake and 65 while we sleep. We used to have it go lower but found out with this heat pump on a 24 degree day it's not as efficient trying to get from nighttime temps to daytime.

I still look for ways to get it lower but do not think that is possible.

View attachment 220073

The builder commissioned a blower door test to make sure air leakage was within code or their own requirements. You also have what's called "supply only" ventilation to provide enough fresh air without sacrificing comfort.

A lot of builders fight the improvements in the building envelope because they'd rather sell someone a house which is cheaper to buy but not cheaper to heat/cool. California builders got around it by throwing solar panels on the roof.
 
That's awesome; plus your rates are super low. Mine is sitting around 0.13c/kwh @ 308kWh.

I set the ac at 78 during the day and 76 at night... The heat is set to 64 in the winter..I have gas heat...

Same here, 78 during the day and night; winter is the same as you. It's currently 81 in my office and I'm okay lol.
 
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I personally wouldn't buy a home based on energy use alone. My priority is always in the order of jobs, security, school quality, commute distance, cost, comfort (size, climate of the area outdoor, convenience to grocery), and quality of construction (any potential building code violation). Energy efficiency would be a cherry on top but never would be my deciding factor.

I wish I have 17c/kwh. I think I'm currently paying 35c-46c/kwh on tier 1 (first 300kwh) and 2 rate. If I switch to EV my day time rate would be much higher and I need to switch rate plan, so that kills the incentive to switch to EV vs hybrid. The cost of replacing AC would likely be around 10-12k these days and there is no way I'll replace my furnace (almost 30 years old 1 stage 100kBTU Rheem) or AC (3 ton single stage 12 seer). 12k can buy me a lot of electricity and I think I only use AC once in a while to cool down just enough.

One thing I learned is having a north facing roof and things that block the sun from the south beats any kind of energy efficiency feature I heard of. When all my friends are paying 400 / month in the area I am only paying 250 / month because I don't need much AC. My windows are just double pane aluminum, not even vinyl either.
 
Jeff your bill also includes some amount of car charging correct?
 
alarmguy your place seems pretty efficient. How cool to buy all that built in vs have to retrofit it all.

It took me years of work, over 100K to get my crib to a place where I'm happy with its environmental and thermal performance.
 
That air tightness has a cost, if the fresh air intake is not done correctly, you will start getting mold form the humid air in places you don’t see. Hopefully they did all the vapor barriers correctly and there aren’t any places where moist air will condense and collect.

Other than that, an energy efficient home is always better than a drafty one because it will be more comfortable, with less temperature swings.
 
68F in the summer and 64F in the winter. My wife has been on Tamoxifen for almost 5 years and it causes hot flashes. Is it sweltering in here (as she throws off the covers in the middle of the night)? No, honey, it's 63F and I'm in the fetal position and I can't fee my fingers or toes.
Hope she is doing well. I assume she is taking it because of cancer?
My wife finished taking it about a year ago. She originally was supposed to take it for 5 years, new research showed 10 years even better. She tolerated it well and still cancer free. She was barely a stage 1 when they discovered the cancer. Never underwent chemo and the Tamoxifen seemed to make sure that it is as close to a cure as there could be in her case. 11 years now cancer free.
 
Jeff your bill also includes some amount of car charging correct?
Yes. When I was researching the solar project, I specifically wanted quotes to level up because I knew retirement was near, so I would be using more electricity. I figured I might get an EV one day and did in Dec 2018. I did not want to spend all this money and still have a large monthly bill.

I love my solar.
 
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