yeah, and the way is Premium Guard filters and Castrol Euro every 3-4 months.If there is a will, there is a way.
yeah, and the way is Premium Guard filters and Castrol Euro every 3-4 months.If there is a will, there is a way.
Honestly,most will do you fine, your Wix number is 57356 and your Bosch premium number is 3323 btw, very common filter size for Honda and Nissan owners. When I’m not using a Bosch 3323 I use the parts master 67356x synthetic filter; $6 or so from Bumper to Bumper auto parts or autovalue depending on your state. They are well made; they used to be made by Mann-Hummel/Wix hence why it’s 67356X and not 57356xp they have since transitioned to champion labs but the quality it still excellent. I would only buy the parts master synthetic though as it’s the only one I’ve cut open, and verified quality construction. The Standard parts master filter is probably fine but I haven’t autopsied one pre or post use to verify quality.My son's new-to-him 2016 Mazda 3i with 2.0L engine will see probably the worst conditions any passenger sedan can be subjected to over the next few years.
Idling in hot, humid weather for hours, stop and go grind driving for hours, and then doing all of the that in moderate winter temps (we usually don't see anything below 15-20deg F).
That being said it will be on a pretty short OCI.
What should I prioritize here?
Cheap, since they'll be replaced often (or could we leave a high quality filter in and only change every other oil dump?)
Filtration?
Build quality?
How should I think about this?
Current filter is a Purolator Boss.
i ran Valvoline high mileage synthetic from 60k to like 220k. then PUP and HPL EC40 and no onto HPL PCEO 5w-40. had one round of M1 HM 5w-30 and it burned quite a bit before i just dumped it.What oil do you like in it?
I've tried Mobil 5w-30 Synthetic, 0w-40 FS, Rotella T6 5w-40, Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, QS 5w-30 Synthetic, and Valvoline R+P 5w-30.
QS Synthetic 5w-30 has given me the best results. Valvoline R+P for the past two, and it works as advertised. Close second to the QS. Probably switch back after the 3rd, plus want to see how it does in the summer heat.
I second what BrendanC said after your original postMy son's new-to-him 2016 Mazda 3i with 2.0L engine will see probably the worst conditions any passenger sedan can be subjected to over the next few years.
Idling in hot, humid weather for hours, stop and go grind driving for hours, and then doing all of the that in moderate winter temps (we usually don't see anything below 15-20deg F).
That being said it will be on a pretty short OCI.
What should I prioritize here?
Cheap, since they'll be replaced often (or could we leave a high quality filter in and only change every other oil dump?)
Filtration?
Build quality?
How should I think about this?
Current filter is a Purolator Boss.
You will never get a consensus here, as you've found....I got the PG4612EX
what's the filter part number on the mazda? clearance issues for oversize? if it's a 3614 fram number it can be upsized to a 16 which can be oversized to an 8 which will have a higher surface area for vrp cleaningI'm almost scared to put VRP into the Mazda. It loaded the Prius filter with so much crud I almost didn't catch it in time.
i ran Valvoline high mileage synthetic from 60k to like 220k. then PUP and HPL EC40 and no onto HPL PCEO 5w-40. had one round of M1 HM 5w-30 and it burned quite a bit before i just dumped it.
i also have a melting 10296 high pressure high volume oil pump on it. hot idle oil pressure is in the 60’s and going down the road is in the 70’s. WOT sees over 80.
I though we can't say tearolator lol or orange canPractically anything with synthetic blend or cellulose media, except a Tearolator branded filter will be fine for a 5k or less interval.
Yeah used to do that, until AAP left all the Western states^^^ Yes, but I wouldn't go with too low efficiency filter, as the cleaning process will put lots of debris in the oil for the filter to catch.
I still see people say orange can, but not orange can of death anymoreI though we can't say tearolator lol or orange can
There are many AAPs here in WA.Yeah used to do that, until AAP left all the Western states
hmmm don't know this happened, but this was in regard to picking up CQ from AAP
Well, my local before they shuttered, told me all Western states........certainly CAThere are many AAPs here in WA.
If he’s gonna be idling that much and you can’t be sure when he’ll actually change the oil I’d go with high capacity like the boss or wix xp or maybe the new M1 or new purolator gold at Walmart. If you can get him to change the oil by idle and drive time which would be often then I’d go cheap like ST.yeah the only issue is access. My son works like 60 hours a week and then goes out of state to see his girlfriend on the weekends. If he's not here (where the tools are) for me to bug him about changing it, it won't get changed.
Realistically, he'll be around with time to change it once every 3-4 months.
You will never get a consensus here, as you've found....Smart thing to do is evaluate all the answers, make your decision, and don't say anything else !
That PG filter is made in China, FWIW.
My 2c, but the conditions in the OP are not severe service for an oil filter, just oil.
Interesting.... I think you said they were the 4612EX (highest grade PG makes) and I had a few of those for our Honda and Infiniti. They were definitely marked as made in China and while I used them, I decided I won't buy 'em again. These are the 7317 equivalents, right ?All 6 filters I received were labeled "Made in Vietnam."
yes, PG4612EX.Interesting.... I think you said they were the 4612EX (highest grade PG makes) and I had a few of those for our Honda and Infiniti. They were definitely marked as made in China and while I used them, I decided I won't buy 'em again. These are the 7317 equivalents, right ?