permatex anti-seize

[crinkles]

picked some of this up today in 5g pouches, for spark plugs in my camry (aluminium block).

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automot...Lubricant_a.htm

I read on the website a bit and it seems that copper anti-seize is recommended for spark plugs in aluminium .

is the regular stuff OK to use?

 

[XS650]

I've had good results with it as far back as the late 1950s using the lousy spark plugs of the day in low quality aluminum aftermarket heads on flathead Fords.

I prefer the copper based stuff, but the old stuff worked for me.

One caveat being that 100,000 mile spark plugs didn't exist then. i did ue it on 20-30k mile intervals on late 1970s early 1980s Datsuns and Toyotas with no problems.

 

[crinkles]

yeah in australia my engine still uses the old fashioned plugs (30k miles change) so it should be all OK.

How much goes on a spark plug? it feels like tacky stuff.

 

[XS650]

A very little bit and don't get any on the electrode end of the plug or you can foul the plug. It's conductive and seems to be unremovable after it gets baked on the electrode and internal center insulator.

I used to just wipe a small amount on with my fingers, then wipe mu fingers off and then wipe the threads again with my fingers. The small amount that remained in the inner part of the threads was adequate.

 

[George7941]

A little dab will do ya. The thinnest possible film is all that is needed.

 

[oilyriser]

Is it guaranteed that the oil base will not become tar after 100,000 miles of engine heat and oxygen exposure?

 

[Sayjac]

I'm thinking of tackling my 01 Tacoma 3.4 V6 plugs. Worst part is going to be the prep to get [censored] out of the way before getting to the plugs.

Found an excellent website with pics here (scroll down) for doing it and one the things he says is use anti-seize, and shows Permatex. I just happen to have a 1oz tube that I've used for plugs in the past.

As said, a little bit goes a long way. IMO, it should work fine.

 

[George7941]

Originally Posted By: oilyriser
Is it guaranteed that the oil base will not become tar after 100,000 miles of engine heat and oxygen exposure?


The carrier might turn to carbon after prolonged exposure to heat but the carrier is only a small part, the rest being metal particles (copper, nickel etc.). Some carbon powder among the metal particles will not create problems. I have been using nickel anti-seize on spark plugs for a long time and haven't noticed much buildup in the threads when I pull plugs off.

New plugs with plated threads do not need anti-seize, according to plug manufacturers, so I only use anti-seize when reinstalling plugs.

 

[mechtech2]

Blow out the spark plug area before you remove the old ones.
Then after their removal, clean what you can.
Use a trusty finger to smear a light coating of AS on the new spark plug threads. Light means enough to see it's on there, and no more. See mostly metal threads.

 

[AdRock]

I've used both nickel and copper antiseize on the aluminum head in my mustang and they both work just fine so you'll be good no matter which you choose.

 

[Sayjac]

crinkles, you inspired me. Did the sparks on my 6 cylinder Tacoma today. Also cleaned the maf sensor and the thottle body(some) while I had the air intake removed.

Used an old toothbrush to spread a light coat of antiseize on the threads. Permatex a-s said for use with aluminium heads.