Same here - use it in all my equipment. Keeps it simple and the protection is good.
One Synthetic Oil for all OPE
- Thread starter Astro_Guy
- Start date
I have M1 10W-30 in my OPE.
We had a couple of power outages in the last few weeks. Temperatures in the teens. Pulled the little EU2000i generator out of the garage and it started right up. No noticeable drag on the pull cord. The attached garage was probably 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp, so call it 25 degrees starting. No problems.
I have a jug of TDT 5W-40 in line for the next oil changes. Why? Because BITOG, that's why. I figured I would try it.
We had a couple of power outages in the last few weeks. Temperatures in the teens. Pulled the little EU2000i generator out of the garage and it started right up. No noticeable drag on the pull cord. The attached garage was probably 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp, so call it 25 degrees starting. No problems.
I have a jug of TDT 5W-40 in line for the next oil changes. Why? Because BITOG, that's why. I figured I would try it.
Any of these-
T6 5W-40
M1 0W-40
VPBE 5W-40
T6 5W-40
M1 0W-40
VPBE 5W-40
Now that I can no longer find Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, I've switched to Rotella T6, 5W-40 with good results.
That is definitely the direction things are headed. Over the course of time I've started using M1 10w-30 HM in most everything due to the 3.5 HTHS viscosity rating. I've experimented with 5w-40 Rotella T6 in the generators and rototiller with no complaints, but now 15w-40 RT6 is available.
Last fall I put the 15w-40 into the JD D140 lawn tractor. A Billy Goat leaf vacuum with Honda GSV190 motor has been added to the stable since this thread was started, and it is next in line for the 15w-40.
The Volvo in my signature produces better UOAs on M1 10w-30 HM and is a 6 quart change, so there is usually some of that oil on hand for the OPE. The Honda in my signature produces better UOAs with M1 5w-30 EP, so there will likely be some of that lying around when the snow blower needs a change. Those of you living in the Northeast know that the snow blower has definitely gotten a workout this winter.
Going forward the OPE will be seeing 10w-30 M1 HM or 15w-40 RT6. If I were forced to choose only one oil, it would be the 10w-30 since almost everything in the stable has been run with that oil.
The only piece of ope I run synthetic oil in is my generator. I want it to start easy in any weather condition. And it does, Everything else I own gets mineral oil. No particular brand, and many different brands over the average 25 year lifespan of my stuff. No motor problems ever. I've had body's rot apart, spark plugs go bad, but no oil failures. Even after not changing their oil in 2-3 years. From my experience, I can't justify using higher cost synthetic oil in lawn mowers or pressure washers. Even my snowblower runs mineral. Everything from supermarket oil to what evers leftover from car changes. Those simple motors have lasted decades on the cheapest oil's I've found, with no signs of imminent failure. My goal is to get the most life out of them for the least amount of money spent/ wasted, on a product that's designed to be thrown away. If they only last 40 years, I'd be satisfied. How many more decades do you think synthetic oil will buy you?.,,,
I'm sure every oil mfgr has their version of why their oil is better than everyone else's. Why theirs lasts longer ect,ect,ect.. Running an engine at a steady speed or rpm will not produce the same results as if that oil was used in a given car ,truck or boat, mower or piece of heavy equipment. The type of fuel used to power that motor also has alot to due with how dirty or clean the oil stays. Air filters and location of a stationary engine also matters. I'm pretty sure the guys that rent generators perform regular maintenance at the mfgrs recommended schedule. Making claims that can never be proven, is an important part of advertising. That's why you should take them all with a grain of salt.,,
Okay - that was a fun video but also scientifically meaningless. Have B&S perform this test with 100 engines on each oil and then get back to us. The more meaningful part of that video was the business owner claiming to be servicing thousands of generators with a particular brand of oil and never having an oil related problem. As we should all know here on BITOG, a proper service regimen is more important than the oil used.
In 36 years of OPE ownership I have had only one catastrophic engine failure. That was about 15 years ago on a push mower with a 190cc [or thereabouts] Briggs flathead. At the time I used either Quaker State or PYB SAE 30 in all of the OPE. That machine ran and sounded great, right up until a few seconds before it spun a bearing and threw a rod. The oil was full at the time.
Was this an oil related failure? I cannot say for sure, but I did stop running conventional oil almost immediately after that. Moving the clock forward 15 years, it's getting more difficult to find a lot of choices in conventional oil, and the price differential has shrunken to the point where it doesn't really matter. It might matter to a landscaper needing 20+ quarts of oil per month, but it has no meaning to a homeowner like me using no more than 8 quarts per year. My OPE often gets oil leftover from my vehicle oil changes. That may change once the Volvo in my signature is retired.
I run 5w40 Schaeffer in almost everything. The only one I stray on is my JD 757 zero turn and it gets 15w40 Schaeffer. It leaked/drank 5w40. It has 2600 hours so it has a right to. Worn out by ope standards.
Quick question: Doesn't a "diesel oil" have the wrong additive package for gasoline engines ?
-I seem to remember reading that it is lacking some important components, and also way too much of others,,,
Just wondering,,
Definitely not if it also has the correct license, specification or approval the gasoline engine requires. Many are dual rated.
If it is not dual rated then it becomes a judgement call. I would not use a high SAPS diesel oil in my Tiguan, but in my old Sienna? For sure. But considering this thread is about OPE I wouldn't hesitate.
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Interesting information. Thank you.
I also just noticed a product specifically designed as a commercial grade small engine oil via the link on the website of one of the sponsors for BITOG. https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2217.pdf
Looks like a fantastic choice, and the technical data sheet shows that it is available in 5W30, 10W30, and 10W40. I think I just found my new oil for all of my 4-stroke OPE. -I might even consider the two-stroke oils by the same manufacturer,,, (Currently I use Echo Power Blend Gold, which I suppose is a lot more cost effective,,,)
And of course, we all know that any one of hundreds of different oils will work just fine. -just pick one with adequate weight grade and with good high temp protection-
And I agree, with an earlier reply that pointed out one of the absolute most important factors: Change it often enough to keep it clean.
Since almost all small engines have no oil filter, just think about how the constantly recirculating wear particles (and other "dirt") is affecting your wear protection.
Cheers !!
I also just noticed a product specifically designed as a commercial grade small engine oil via the link on the website of one of the sponsors for BITOG. https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2217.pdf
Looks like a fantastic choice, and the technical data sheet shows that it is available in 5W30, 10W30, and 10W40. I think I just found my new oil for all of my 4-stroke OPE. -I might even consider the two-stroke oils by the same manufacturer,,, (Currently I use Echo Power Blend Gold, which I suppose is a lot more cost effective,,,)
And of course, we all know that any one of hundreds of different oils will work just fine. -just pick one with adequate weight grade and with good high temp protection-
And I agree, with an earlier reply that pointed out one of the absolute most important factors: Change it often enough to keep it clean.
Since almost all small engines have no oil filter, just think about how the constantly recirculating wear particles (and other "dirt") is affecting your wear protection.
Cheers !!
There are other equally fantastic choices as the Amsoil product.
Excellent choice.
High HTHS Oils for me. Don't care much for the newer "S" rating, my OPE's don't have Cats.
