Use bigger and better filters in your OPE

Joined
Apr 14, 2006
Messages
60
Location
Oregon
One thing I have been doing with my OPE for years is using Amsoil synthetic media filters in my OPE.

Now, before you get the wrong idea, I use Amsoil because they have high efficiency filters, no other reason. I am not a dealer. I tried it, I got really weirded out by the MM groupthink, so I quit. In fact, I have begun using other filters, Fram Endurance, which are nearly identical, with the same media, and up to half the price.
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Stock Briggs and Stratton filters will cost you from $10 up, more likely $12+ on Amazon or locally. The Amsoil EaO34 filter only costs $15.45 (Preferred Customer price) and an equivalent FRAM Endurance will be about $12 at Walmart.

For a negligible increase in price, you get a filtering area that is around 3 times as large, and synthetic media. That means, with these low flow (relatively), low pressure engines, you get vastly increased contaminant holding capacity, and vastly increased filtering efficiency. Furthermore, because the filter is so large, you get much lower filter loading, which means the particles are not pushed so hard through the filter media, increasing filter efficiency, and chances are, the filter bypass will never need to open even when the engine is cold. Additionally, the filter volume increases oil capacity, which may allow extending OCIs. The larger filter also offers a little extra cooling.

In aggregate, this means vastly better filtering performance. My experience in my 13 year old Kawasaki powered Husqvarna lawn tractor is, that using Mobil 1 Extended oil, and an Amsoil filter, after 2 years, the oil is not even black. The oil has darkened somewhat but remains translucent. And this mower gets many hours every year, being used for mowing and hauling utility trailers around.

Recently, I purchased a piece of equipment for my fire engine, a 23hp B&S Vanguard powered pump. It had the standard oil filter housing on the side of the engine, with hoses to the oil cooler. The Amsoil EaO34 filter did not fit in the available space, and it turns out the B&S makes and sells a remote oil filter mount setup, I assume for big lawn mowers, maybe generators. So I purchased that, and have installed it. Now I can put the filter wherever I want, mounted in a spot which is easy to get to and change the filter while keeping it upright and not spilling, which is definitely better than the original option, hard to get to, and mounted diagonally.

So, next time you change your oil in your OPE, think about putting a better filter on it. On most lawn tractors, the filter sticks out the side, so you can put the biggest one on there you can find with no clearance issues. And if there are clearance issues, options are available.
 
Oil filters for splash lubrication in residential OPE is overkill if you consistently change the oil annually. My JD Gator with a 11hp kawasaki (FE290) didnt even have one for 1300 hours until I installed the factory oil filter kit with a bottom of the barrel Fram 3600. The oil 80 hours later looks like it came from the bottle.
 
i use supertech filters since they're cheap and available. hardest part is finding the part number if the one that came off isnt an orange can
 
One thing I have been doing with my OPE for years is using Amsoil synthetic media filters in my OPE.

Now, before you get the wrong idea, I use Amsoil because they have high efficiency filters, no other reason. I am not a dealer. I tried it, I got really weirded out by the MM groupthink, so I quit. In fact, I have begun using other filters, Fram Endurance, which are nearly identical, with the same media, and up to half the price.
View attachment 275139
Stock Briggs and Stratton filters will cost you from $10 up, more likely $12+ on Amazon or locally. The Amsoil EaO34 filter only costs $15.45 (Preferred Customer price) and an equivalent FRAM Endurance will be about $12 at Walmart.

For a negligible increase in price, you get a filtering area that is around 3 times as large, and synthetic media. That means, with these low flow (relatively), low pressure engines, you get vastly increased contaminant holding capacity, and vastly increased filtering efficiency. Furthermore, because the filter is so large, you get much lower filter loading, which means the particles are not pushed so hard through the filter media, increasing filter efficiency, and chances are, the filter bypass will never need to open even when the engine is cold. Additionally, the filter volume increases oil capacity, which may allow extending OCIs. The larger filter also offers a little extra cooling.

In aggregate, this means vastly better filtering performance. My experience in my 13 year old Kawasaki powered Husqvarna lawn tractor is, that using Mobil 1 Extended oil, and an Amsoil filter, after 2 years, the oil is not even black. The oil has darkened somewhat but remains translucent. And this mower gets many hours every year, being used for mowing and hauling utility trailers around.

Recently, I purchased a piece of equipment for my fire engine, a 23hp B&S Vanguard powered pump. It had the standard oil filter housing on the side of the engine, with hoses to the oil cooler. The Amsoil EaO34 filter did not fit in the available space, and it turns out the B&S makes and sells a remote oil filter mount setup, I assume for big lawn mowers, maybe generators. So I purchased that, and have installed it. Now I can put the filter wherever I want, mounted in a spot which is easy to get to and change the filter while keeping it upright and not spilling, which is definitely better than the original option, hard to get to, and mounted diagonally.

So, next time you change your oil in your OPE, think about putting a better filter on it. On most lawn tractors, the filter sticks out the side, so you can put the biggest one on there you can find with no clearance issues. And if there are clearance issues, options are available.
I really need to learn how to do the Quote thing on this Forum, it is not happening today. With a Lawnmower Engine just stick with the Stock Size Oil Filter. Let's be realistic, these lawnmower Engines are not fitted with some High-Volume Melling Oil Pump, a larger oil filter is not going to help. The most important thing is to make sure the oil level does not get Low; I would rather use a good oil with a cheaper oil filter instead of a subpar oil with a great oil filter. I want more oil in the engine as opposed to running a larger oil filter in these lawnmower engines. These engines are Air Cooled, the last thing that is important is the Oil Filter.

1) Keep The Air Filter Clean
2) Use a Good Oil
3) Blow the Machine off after each use
4) Check the Oil before each use
 
All of my OPE has oil that looks clean after being in service for two years with conventional oil and filters.

My rider will need a new deck and and lots of other stuff before the Briggs 502cc single cylinder Intek wears out. My Bobcat walk behind mower with a Kohler 14hp Command motor has a bazillion hours on it (thousands) with plain old 10w-30 and jobber filters. It starts on the first pull every time.

Most home owners would be better off spending their effort and money on cleaning and rust proofing their gear than worrying about fancy oil and filters.
 
I've got a Fram PH3600 on my mower. Had to trim some plastic but it fits fine and the orange matches my mower. 🤣
This is good info, that's one cross reference with the Amsoil but I wasn't sure. I have one on the way in the mail, but it's the same one that fits my Ford 302, so I wasn't sure if it was the same.
 
Also, hot tip if you struggle to get things going, I have been doing the following for more than a decade with near perfect results, with small engines.

#1. Always use fuel preserver in the fuel. You never know how long it's going to sit, and fuel preserver seems to help clean the gunk out. My motorcycle always ran better in the spring after sitting all winter with fuel+preserver in it.
#2. Always use synthetic oil, with the lowest winter number you can get, and the specified summer number. It just starts better.

Doing these two things, all my small engines start easily, even after sitting all winter.
 
Most home owners would be better off spending their effort and money on cleaning and rust proofing their gear than worrying about fancy oil and filters.

It is 100% likely that most people don't care, and a lot of people spend a lot of money paying a small engine mechanic to get things going after not taking care of their machines. I saw this all the time when I sold OPE. People would bring in their mower after sitting over winter, thinking they could get it fixed under warranty, and finding that it wasn't covered because it was bad fuel and had sat too long. Then they wouldn't pay their repair fee, and we'd sell their mower to recoup the fee.

Plus, these engines are designed to keep running long after they don't work right. They run rich, lots of blowby, burn lots of oil, etc. I'm not here to fix people's stupid mindless bad habits. I'm here to learn and teach best of the best practices, so things last and are serviceable.
 
i use supertech filters since they're cheap and available. hardest part is finding the part number if the one that came off isnt an orange can
I have a kohler command on my z-turn and I can't figure out which filter to use on it. I found something *close* from supertech and it seems to work but I'm not sure it's ideal.
 
Also, hot tip if you struggle to get things going, I have been doing the following for more than a decade with near perfect results, with small engines.

#1. Always use fuel preserver in the fuel. You never know how long it's going to sit, and fuel preserver seems to help clean the gunk out. My motorcycle always ran better in the spring after sitting all winter with fuel+preserver in it.
#2. Always use synthetic oil, with the lowest winter number you can get, and the specified summer number. It just starts better.

Doing these two things, all my small engines start easily, even after sitting all winter.
I haven't needed fuel preservative since I started buying ethanol free gas for my small engines at the farm co-op.
 
I use OEM Kohler filters on my 8 yr old Bad Boy mower . The oil gets changed once a year and I have yet to ever have to add oil between changes . , I'm going to stick with what has always worked for me .
 
I haven't needed fuel preservative since I started buying ethanol free gas for my small engines at the farm co-op.
Do regular gas stations there not sell E0? Here in WI it's pretty much everywhere, both 87 and 91 octane. Spendy, though, as E0 91 octane is $1/gal more than 87.
 
Do regular gas stations there not sell E0? Here in WI it's pretty much everywhere, both 87 and 91 octane. Spendy, though, as E0 91 octane is $1/gal more than 87.
Not as a general rule, they don't. You have to go out of your way to find a station selling E0. The local farm co-op always has people filling gas cans for their OPE. That and guys with classic cars, boats, etc. They also sell VP Racing high octane as well.
 
st16 can be used as an oversize but it is wider so it may not clear the frame
For OPE oil filters, it seems to me that bigger is not necessarily better. OPE oil flow rates are lower than automotive applications and if the anti-drainback valve in an extra large oil filter fails, it will take even longer for the filter to fill before oil can circulate to the engine. Just how big of a filter does one need to efficiently filter a whopping 48 ounces of oil?
 
For OPE oil filters, it seems to me that bigger is not necessarily better. OPE oil flow rates are lower than automotive applications and if the anti-drainback valve in an extra large oil filter fails, it will take even longer for the filter to fill before oil can circulate to the engine. Just how big of a filter does one need to efficiently filter a whopping 48 ounces of oil?
fair enough
 
The primary reason I use a larger than spec filter on my JD mower w/B&S 21hp engine is because I can get the automotive (3614&equivalent) application for significantly less than the OPE. And many times that means it has silicone adbv vs nitrile in the OPE. I see some suggest even bigger 3600, and 'for me' that's overkill. 3614 plenty enough, especially after seeing what a Napa Gold 1348 looked like after 7 plus years as posted here. So if room permits, using an automotive application in place of the OPE, a pretty much a no brainer imo.
 
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