One oil for mowers and snowblower?

Matt1357

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Would like to buy one 5 quart jug of oil instead of separate quarts for oil changes. I have a Riding mower with a Kohler that calls for 10w30, a cheap push mower that also calls for 10w30 and a cheap snowblower that calls for 5w30. I live in northern connecticut so temperature swings but nothing too extreme. Would 5w30 provide enough protection for the mower? Would 5w40 be an option?
 
Would like to buy one 5 quart jug of oil instead of separate quarts for oil changes. I have a Riding mower with a Kohler that calls for 10w30, a cheap push mower that also calls for 10w30 and a cheap snowblower that calls for 5w30. I live in northern connecticut so temperature swings but nothing too extreme. Would 5w30 provide enough protection for the mower? Would 5w40 be an option?
FWIW I use Farm & Fleet 5w40 HDEO in all my OPE including my JD LT150 Kohler and Wen generator here in Iowa. The LT150 cuts grass and blow’s snow.

Just my $0.02
 
I read somewhere that diesel oil is designed to keep diesel engines clean and vice versa
Simply put I use 5w40 because of the oil shears I end up with a 30 weight oil. I use the 5w version to aid starting. I’ve not had any trouble with my stuff but to each their own. I also think the additive pack in the HDEO is good for OPE which often times has solid lifter cams.

Just my $0.02
 
Since I already have M1 0W-40 Euro on hand, for my E350, a few years ago I decided to try it in my lawn mower and snow blower. Both engines seem to really like the 0W-40. The B&S on the Toro lawnmower runs significantly quieter with the 0W-40. I'm not sure that the snow blower runs any quieter, but it performs just fine. It starts easy, usually on the first pull, and stays running.

I will probably never go back to using 5W-30 in my small engine equipment.
 
How about 0W40 for the snowblower and at the end of winter drain it and put the used oil in the lawn mower?
For under five bucks for a quart, I cannot come up with a sane reason to take used oil and put it into another engine. Makes no sense to me. Better off to run the snowblower's oil for a second year if its still good.
 
For under five bucks for a quart, I cannot come up with a sane reason to take used oil and put it into another engine. Makes no sense to me. Better off to run the snowblower's oil for a second year if its still good.
My premise is based on Ronald Regan's trickle down theory and supply side economics.
Now go out and win one for the Gipper.
 
My premise is based on Ronald Regan's trickle down theory and supply side economics.
Now go out and win one for the Gipper.
I have personal experience with an engine that was maintained that way. A mechanic I used to work with would drain his old oil from his good truck and put it in another 302 Ford. It was originally good but in the end it needed a big bottle under the hood to catch all the oil coming from the breather from excessive blowby. He wore it out good. Might as well not change the oil at all. Likely the same result.
 
I would NEVER run a PCMO 5W30 in your rider. Mixed fleet 10W30 at minimum. The go-to ODPE used to be Rotella triple protect 10W30
I don't see it anywhere anymore. I am running 10w30 synthetic QS FS in my large Lonchin OHV engine in my Toro snow blower. I pull start that no problem.

Never seen many storms below 20 deg F.
 
I would NEVER run a PCMO 5W30 in your rider. Mixed fleet 10W30 at minimum. The go-to ODPE used to be Rotella triple protect 10W30
I don't see it anywhere anymore. I am running 10w30 synthetic QS FS in my large Lonchin OHV engine in my Toro snow blower. I pull start that no problem.

Never seen many storms below 20 deg F.
There is really no issue running PCMO 5w30 in any small engine, it just might burn off quicker than say a HDEO 15w40, so checking the oil each use is critical. Most people don't do that.
 
That's what I would use for a lawn mower but he is determined to buy one weight for all.
It's more like he seems to be determined to buy one winter rating. You can run nearly anything on a grade with sufficient HT/HS and an appropriate license or approval. Something like a Euro 0W-40. Or if you have a vehicle that needs a lower SAPS then something with VW 504 00 or BMW Longlife-04 approval.
 
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