Harbor freight 173cc engine tested, quantified

Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
2,963
Location
eastern NewMexico
My free clapped out 140cc 2011 Briggs and Husqvarna finally bit the dust.
It was a free mower that was ran without an air filter for who knows how long.
It got to the point where it would only idle at wide open throttle, had no power and the rest was blow by.

The harbor freight 173cc costs more now. I want to say prior to 2020 it was like a hundred dollars, definitely less than 150.
$230 now.
I bought it because it was bigger and heavier than the Briggs 140cc. It also has a very good air filter, it's a rectangular paper air filter, looks like a Briggs air filter from the late 1990s through 2010.

I filled it up with cheap supertech 10w-30 synthetic 10k oil since it's only going to be in there for about 3hr max for break in.
For gas I put in about a half quart of ethanol free 40:1 two-stroke gas.
From the factory mine was set to idle at 1,800rpm, max speed was factory set at 3,200rpm which I bumped the idle up to 1,900rpm and then bumped the max speed to 3,350rpm. I definitely wanted that variable throttle speed.
I did install one of those cheap tachometer hour meters.
FOr initial break in I ran it at idle for 20 minutes revving the engine some, while installing the tachometer/hourmeter setting the idle and max speeds and I finished hooking up the throttle control.
Then I mowed grass like a normal person for about 30 minutes cycling the engine between idle and max speed, favoring max speed. Then shut it off, quickly stuck a temperature gauge in the oil dipstick hole to check the oil temperature and started it back up. The oil gauge read 205f. For pedestrian use, at an ambient temperature of 90f that's perfect oil temperature.
I'd say any PCMO 30 weight oil is fine and that you'd be hard pressed to really need a 40 weight oil, although 40 weight would be fine.
I'd say you'd be hard pressed to get the oil temp to 250f, you would have to do something like fill it up with gas, run it at 3,300rpm or more and drag it behind a riding mower through tall grass on a 100f day.
Or if the air blower passages became blocked with grass.

Mods:
So far all I've done is bump the speed and RTV'ed the air filter into place.
Future mods I'll see if I can find the high altitude jet kit as I'm at 4,400ft I'll get the 3,000 to 6,000ft kit and the 6,000 to 8,000ft. Try all of them, see which one starts and runs better.
Install at least a 4 degrees timing advance key, maybe a 6.
De'CARB and un-EPA the engine to make it what it always should have been.
 
Last edited:
De'CARB and un-EPA the engine to make it what it always should have been.
I'm remiss to know what they did if anything to a small engine other than perhaps having a vapor recovery from the fuel tank. Looking at the parts diagram I can't see how it doesn't look like any other small outdoor power equipment engine.
 
I'm remiss to know what they did if anything to a small engine other than perhaps having a vapor recovery from the fuel tank. Looking at the parts diagram I can't see how it doesn't look like any other small outdoor power equipment engine.
The 2011 Briggs engine had a fuel vapor vent that went to the air filter housing which seems like it would do absolutely nothing unless the engine was running.
The harbor freight engine does not have anything connecting the fuel tank vapors to the air intake. It has a tall funny looking fuel cap. Maybe the tall fuel cap holds a little bit of vapor pressure or has a tea spoon of active charcoal in it.
Most CARB approved small engine seem like they just need a virtue signaling attempt at catching the vapors. Along with psychoticly low NOx, high HC and CO emissions plus reduced fuel economy and power.
 
I filled it up with cheap supertech 10w-30 synthetic 10k oil since it's only going to be in there for about 3hr max for break in.
For gas I put in about a half quart of ethanol free 40:1 two-stroke gas.
To be clear this isn't a 2 stroke engine but you're using 1/2 qt of two stroke oil fuel mix?
Then I mowed grass like a normal person for about 30 minutes cycling the engine between idle and max speed, favoring max speed. Then shut it off, quickly stuck a temperature gauge in the oil dipstick hole to check the oil temperature and started it back up. The oil gauge read 205f. For pedestrian use, at an ambient temperature of 90f that's perfect oil temperature.
I'd say any PCMO 30 weight oil is fine and that you'd be hard pressed to really need a 40 weight oil, although 40 weight would be fine.
I'd say you'd be hard pressed to get the oil temp to 250f,
Agree, 205F is good for the load.
 
Last edited:
Maybe I missed it: Was this a straight bolt on?
Kind of. The HF engine had 5 bolt holes line up to the deck of the 2011 Briggs and Husqvarna that was attached with 4 bolts.
I used four 5/16 bolts that were 1.25 inches long with lock nuts, plus a 5th 5/16'' fine thread bolt that came with the engine.
I figure 5 is more gooder than 4 so I'm running 5 bolts.
It appears the old self tapping 3/8 bolts would have worked but I find those course self tappers so uncivilized and barbaric. Plus if they break, now you got one less bolt holding the engine on the deck.
The mower bolting to the deck without drilling holes is the main concern.

Things that had to be modded.
The spark snuff engine brake pull cable had to be modified a tiny bit. When the handle was pulled back it barely moved the brake lever on the engine. I fixed that by drilling a 1/4 hole about 3/4 of an inch further down the handle bars from the original hole. Easy to do, if you can drill a hole in something and not drill a hole in your hand or leg anyone can do it.
There was no provions on the 2011 Briggs and Husqvarna deck and handle bar for variable throttle control.
I tossed on a drive system engagement lever and cable from a Briggs and snapper junk mower I had, slightly modified the end of the cable.
The engine could be set to run max speed with a zip tie, piece of wire or tack weld ect to hold the throttle control at max speed.
 
To be clear this isn't a 2 stroke engine but you're using 1/2 qt of two stroke oil fuel mix?

Agree, 205F is good for the load.
Yeah the weedeater gas was right next to me and the straight gas can was on the other end of the house and I didn't feel like walking 100ft to go get it.
 
Air filter upgrade.
The predator air filter looks like the Honda one. Part number 17211-z8b-901.
The predator filter has 40 pleats and the Honda one was 46. Holding them side by side the Honda filter paper doesn't appear to be clearly better than what predator uses. The filter paper could have both filters come from the same place.
RTVing them into place definitely matters more than using a Honda vs predator filter.
 
I put an hour meter in it I'm at 2.8hrs and when I check the dipstick I can't see any forbidden glitter.
I'll change it next time I run out of gas.
Can't see any gas in the gas tank so any day down.
I don't know how long the oil takes to get black. I haven't bought new mower since the 1990s.
 
Back
Top