Old Milwaukee Angle Grinder Repair

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Nov 20, 2006
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MA, Mittelfranken.de
I bought this old girl in 2006 used from a company that was having a going out of business sale, best info from Milwaukee is it was made between 1989 and 1992. Initially it looked like a set of brushes and a power cord but it was loud and rough so I took it apart and found someone had been in there before. They removed one side of the bearing rubber seal and used red and tacky grease as well as damaging the spindle and putting a small crack in the housing.

That was a dilemma $65-75 in parts or toss it, it is a real made in USA Milwaukee not a Chinese TTI, the field, armature, case and upper housing all okay, no scorch marks or melting around the brush holders or rear bearing. I decided to repair it and ran into issues right away, they still sell parts for this but the bearings are Chinese "Peer" brand they use in the newer TTI stuff and they are notorious for failing, what grease to use?
I found NOS USA brushes and a gear set, a lower housing from a little later series but dimensional the same and a NOS spindle.

Not being able to make heads or tails out of the bearing number and letter salad I called SKF, they were very helpful, the make a low friction seal bearing especially for hammer drills and angle grinders, they are the 2RSL (2 Rubber Seals Low friction) models and C3 rated for high speed.
I bought 3 SKF bearings and a INA USA needle bearing from an authorized local bearing supplier, no ebay or amazon bearings, they claim 30-40% are fakes.
It turns out Mobilux EP1 NLGI 1 is the exact spec grease Milwaukee spec'd for this probably because of the needle bearing in the head.

After assembly I used prussian blue on the gear set and found it needed a shim to get the pattern just right. It runs incredibly smooth and turns very easy by hand, it is quiet for a grinder and runs cool at the head. There is one thing, it claims it is only 5.5 amp, this must be true power output because it has more power than my 2007 7.5A Makita, like the old 5A hole shooter drill had less power on the label but was a genuine wrist breaker more so than the TTI 8A. All in all it was worth it to me, it was a fun and educational simple job but you do need a decent press.

Milwaukee still has a grease chart for the tools inc the old timers.


Some info of SKF seals.


The first gear pics are worn and got thrown out along with the old spindle and cracked housing. The commutator looks perfect, it only need a little clean up with 2000.

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Good info to know and job well done.
I have that same grinder I bought in 1987.
Mine doesn't get used much (mostly lawn mower blades).

I do keep the gears greased, I use Red-N-Tacky not knowing if any other grease would be better.

My father always had a full-size (big/clunker) grinder that I would use growing up.
Years later, I bought my father this smaller version for Christmas, and he never used the larger one anymore.
 
Someone used red and tacky on this one, the stuff got flung off to the sides and the gears ran dry, causing it to be noisy and caused wear.
I looked up in the chart and found they want 1/4 oz of lithium 12 type base lubricant NLGI 1, it is a semi fluid grease. The Mobilux meets that spec and it is cheap, not the $28 Milwaukee wants for 6 oz.

 
Someone used red and tacky on this one, the stuff got flung off to the sides and the gears ran dry, causing it to be noisy and caused wear.
I looked up in the chart and found they want 1/4 oz of lithium 12 type base lubricant NLGI 1, it is a semi fluid grease. The Mobilux meets that spec and it is cheap, not the $28 Milwaukee wants for 6 oz.

For tools like that, I have used Genuine Makita grease, and it is very thin. An NLGI 2, particularly a tacky one, would not be my first choice.

But the price on the Makita is about $10 for a 4oz tube - nearly as bad as gun grease. Thanks for link to something reasonable!
 
Wow, running a pattern on an angle grinder. I'm impressed!

Now how many dozens of places in the shop is that blue?? I swear that stuff travels by air once you think about taking the cap off. Maybe just a wear mask, because we know that works for airborne stuff ;)
 
Wow, running a pattern on an angle grinder. I'm impressed!

Now how many dozens of places in the shop is that blue?? I swear that stuff travels by air once you think about taking the cap off. Maybe just a wear mask, because we know that works for airborne stuff ;)
The shims are in the parts list but listed as obsolete, it list number of shims used OE was 0-3. First I tried it with none and it got a little too warm at the head after 5 min working with a knotted wire wheel, considering I used a new lower housing and gear set I figured I need to know how it was running, it was tight and running near the end of the bevel gear with 2 shims it lifted it enough so tooth contact is in the middle and not too deep. Same 5 min working and it is only warm to the touch. I found the shims at a liquidation place for $1 ea.
 
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I used to work at a heavy fab shop with an in house tool crib. The ole boy that ran it also serviced all the grinders - all Milwaukee 7", some older and some newer.. he was quite adept at servicing and rebuilding all aspects of them.. and if you asked nicely, he'd also service or repair your personal grinders (4½"). He did mine and it's still running good to this day, though it doesn't seem the use that it did.
 
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