oil pressure question

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i was reading my manual and oil pressure at idle is 10 psi. at 3000 rpm its at 50 psi...so basically at high way speeds im in bypass mode?

65 mph - 3000 rpms --bypass mode?

i run a purolator oil filter...l14459 i think for my 1991 honda accord.

i believe this filter has a 12-15 psi bypass ..

so im always running in bypass mode? no filtration at high way speeds? how can this be? im always at 3k rpm...especially when accelerating.
 
The 12-15p.s.i. bypass pressure you're referring to deals with the pressure differential of the filter itself, not total system P.S.I.

It's basically the difference in pressure between when the oil comes in the filter and when the oil goes back out.

If the filter is causing more than 12-15p.s.i. increase in pressure, then the filter will go into bypass.
 
Good point Jelly. I was wondering myself about the low figure on the filter. What you say makes sense, but actually I think it opens if the filter causes more than 12-15 psi restriction in pressure. I am going to a bigger filter on my F150 pickup. Spec is the Puro L30001 which flows 4 gallons per minute as stated in the back of their catalog, but the bigger filter for the F700 truck fits and has the same relief valve tension and flows 7 gpm (Puro L40017). I am hoping to get more oil pressure up in the engine as I believe I have a weak oil pump relief valve spring.
 
Right on -- correctamundo.

As for the significance of filter bypass settings for a street car (as opposed to racing or other specialty applications), I don't think there's much to be concerned about. The bypass pressures of the recommended "stock" replacement filters for my car are 8 psi, 16 psi, and 20 psi, respectively, for Fleetguard, Wix, and Hastings brands. Three very different settings for the same application -- there certainly aren't any hard-and-fast rules when it comes to bypass settings.
 
in a way im confused...so you guys are saying that if the pressure is 12-15 psi MORE than what my car has...then the bypass opens?

interesting, that we talking about oil filters and quality and stuff but i never heard anything about what im talking about...or i can just be super slow
grin.gif
 
OK, I'll give this a shot. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong...

DD91: First, click the link below to check out Britney Spears in a traditional "spread eagle" position, although those rose pedals covering her privates really **** me off... (Well, actually it's three photos of a dissected Mitsubishi oil filter).
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000577

In the middle of the BOTTOM image is a dime-size circle, which looks like it's part of the larger stamped steel cap. It's not -- it's actually a coil spring-mounted plunger which progressively moves into the cartridge when oil pressure pushes against it. In the MIDDLE image, inside the cartrige you'll see a small steel dome which houses the coil spring for the plunger.

So here's how it works, with a bit of beer-fueled speculation on my part. Oil is forced into the outside of the filter housing through the numerous small holes along the base. Oil under pressure pushes against the media and permates it, as well as pushes against the OUTSIDE of the plunger. Oil flows through the media and into the cartridge interior. Once there, it both flows into the engine's threaded inlet pipe, but also presses against the INSIDE of the plunger. If the filter media has zero flow resistance (which is impossible), the two pressures on opposite sides of the plunger would cancel each other out. But since the media restricts flow a bit, the pressure is greater on the OUTSIDE of the plunger than on the INSIDE, but not great enough to overcome the 8-22 psi strength of the typical valve's spring, so the plunger doesn't move. As the filter becomes clogged over time, there's less flow through the media, and less pressure against the INSIDE of the plunger while pressure on the plunger's OUTSIDE remains the same as before; therefore the plunger opens a bit. Twelve months later (lazy %#/* owner!!), the filter is almost fully clogged with little flowing through it, and therefore little pressure pushing against the INSIDE of the plunger. So the pressure on the OUTSIDE of the plunger fully overpowers the spring, and the plunger fully opens. So a "8-22 psi bypass valve" means that the valve will open once the pressure INSIDE the cartridge is 8-22 psi less than the pressure OUTSIDE the cartridge, caused solely by media clogging and restriction. As for the significance of an engine's designed pump pressure, I don't see any great relevance to the filter clogging process described above, correct...?

Geez, time for another Sam Adams, maybe two after all that thinkin'. Hopefully I got this thing right...

P.S. The stamped steel spring in the TOP photo simply locates the filter cartridge in place within the shell (some people mistake this for a bypass spring), and the large black gasket in the MIDDLE image is the anti-drainback valve. You can see how the gasket rests against the five small filter inlet holes, preventing oil from draining back out of the filter, emptying it out, and causing lag-behind oil pressure and lifter chatter at start-up. When operating, the oil pump forces oil through the five holes and past the gasket. This quick photo shows how an ADBV interfaces with the base plate:
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/napas4.jpg

[ November 07, 2003, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: TC ]
 
A follow-up... The new Champion "clicker" bypass valves work a bit differently than traditional coil spring valves. You can see photos of a clicker valve assembly at the bottom of this page:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=001095#000009

Also, I may have inadverdenty suggested that filters only bypass when clogged. In fact, even new filters routinely bypass, mainly during starts in cold climates (temperature-thickened oil doesn't particularly like being forced through media), as well as during throttle jabs and high-RPM operation.

[ November 12, 2003, 07:00 PM: Message edited by: TC ]
 
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