Oil plug torque spec: 2010+ Mazda 2.5l.

[Letter_K]

Originally Posted By: JOD

While there are plenty of bozos who misread torque wrenches, there are also those who wipe down the threads, tighten the fastener with a trusty snap-on torque wrench, then feel the sickening feeling of things suddenly getting too loose...


Ouch, been there and done that. Makes me sick to my stomach now just thinking about it. The everything seems right and the bolt breaks - mine was a transmission pan bolt, luckily turned out all right.

The takeaway is that everything can be done by the book, but the variables of fastener condition, washer/no washer, Mars/Venus alignment will cause more variable in the final torque applied than about anything else. Same could be said for hand tightening too.

So Vikas I can't use my new, $32 1/2" Harbor Freight Digital Torque Wrench for tigthening small bolts?

It's about 2 1/2 feet long too.

 

[Vikas]

I know you are joking but one should never use a torque wrench in the lower 20% of its stated range. I would not use 1/2 digital torque wrench to tighten my spark plugs (assuming that wrench goes from 20-150 ft-lb).

Read this and weep; that is why I keep on saying that a torque wrench is no substitute for your brains. I found this in another forum. Can you guess what went wrong?

-------------------------------
Torque spec for rear caliper banjo bolt
I'm currently in the process of replacing both of my rear calipers. The repair book that I'm using states that the rear banjo bolt should be torqued to 144 ft-lbs. The washer and fitting started distorting really bad after a using my torque wrench. I'm pretty sure my banjo bolt and fitting are shot.

Does anyone know here if that's the right torque spec?

Thanks,
-------------------------------------------------------------

 

[spasm3]

If you can't tighten a oil plug bolt without a torque wrench , you have no business doing it.
I use a torque wrench for wheel lugs, head bolts intake bolts etc. but never a drain plug, if it leaks, you don't tighten it more, you replace the gasket.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Vikas

Read this and weep The repair book that I'm using states that the rear banjo bolt should be torqued to 144 ft-lbs.


Oh dear...

Obviously this dude needs a little primer on reading comprehension, but we can also blame the ridiculous continued use of the Imperial system for torque spec. When I was charged with authoring printed manual torque specs, I absolutely never published another value besides Nm. Some people don't like this because they feel that Lb-in offers "better resolution". Here's a perfect example of how this works in practice. OUCH!

I guess there should be additional instructions that read "in case of metal distortion, STOP TURNING!".

 

[Mustang_Cougar]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
If you can't tighten a oil plug bolt without a torque wrench , you have no business doing it.

For the record: I'm installing an aftermarket drain valve on a new model for which the valve manufacturer does not have the OEM torque numbers. They advised that I should seat the valve w/in that torque range...and that's why I asked here.

 

[urchin]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I know you are joking but one should never use a torque wrench in the lower 20% of its stated range. I would not use 1/2 digital torque wrench to tighten my spark plugs (assuming that wrench goes from 20-150 ft-lb).



You are probably correct about this fact, but you can still get a light duty torque wrench at reasonable cost from many sources that are designed specifically for things like fragile components .

Feel can be helpful, but in the end if you are using the correct tool for the job it does not come close to the accuracy
of a torque suited for the job.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Mustang_Cougar
I'm installing an aftermarket drain valve on a new model for which the valve manufacturer does not have the OEM torque numbers. They advised that I should seat the valve w/in that torque range...and that's why I asked here.


Do they have a correction factor for the differences in fastener material, and do they use the same gasket (does the 2.5 use the hard plastic gasket which is part of the drain plug)? I'm assuming the drain is brass?

 

[Letter_K]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I know you are joking but one should never use a torque wrench in the lower 20% of its stated range. I would not use 1/2 digital torque wrench to tighten my spark plugs (assuming that wrench goes from 20-150 ft-lb).


Yep, of course, I'm kidding. That is why I have a 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and now a digital 1/2" to replace the old half inch that sat for 15 years with tension on the spring. Not to mention, I also have a torque adapter that fits on a regular ratchets. Is it overkill, maybe, but after you break a bolt of two and can only find a replacement part at the junkyard, it gets old quick.

I'd be curious see what 50% tension on a torque that sat for 15 years does to the accuracy.

Yes, I know you are supposed to remove the tension for a wrench for storage, but it was purchased in 1995 when I was in my teens and I didn't know any better. There was no internet back then for someone to tell me I went wrong.

Maybe one of these days I can use the new wrench and the digital torque adapter for regular wrenches and post the results. Then we can see the fur really fly around here.

 

[Vikas]

If you are going to use torque wrench, you need to make sure that it is working and the readings are in the ball park. For example, you could compare your multiple torque wrench with each other and if they are "close" to each other, you can be reasonably sure that you can rely on them. It goes without saying that you are not supposed to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, drop it on the hard floor or leave it at anything but at its lowest setting when stored.

 

[dparm]

I have never torqued any oil or trans/diff drain bolt. I just go hand-tight. Never stripped anything, and it's easy to break loose the next time.

 

[GMFan]

I agree, people who can't properly torque a drain plug without under or over tightening it by feel shouldn't be changing their own oil.

 

[Trav]

I agree in theory but aluminium pans and cases are different.
I rather use a torque wrench on aluminium then fix a buggered pan or god forbid strip or crack an case.

Someone posted not to long ago about cracking an aluminium transfer case using the feel method.

 

[Mustang_Cougar]

Geeze, I'm sort of sorry I posted this [censored] question.

 

[SIXSPEED]

Everyone should just do what works for them. BTW, I've been tightening drain plugs both ways ... by feel for quite some time and just recently with a torque wrench. I prefer using the torque wrench on Aluminum pans that have a crush washer on the drain plug. I find that when using the torque wrench I have fewer instances (once) of leaky plugs and I never worry about striping the threads. It doesn't take much time to setup a torque wrench so I just got in the habit of using it while changing oil on all my vehicles.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Mustang_Cougar
Geeze, I'm sort of sorry I posted this [censored] question.







Nothing wrong with your question, it sparked a little debate/conversation. nothing wrong with that.