Got a 2010 Honda CR-V, 2.4 engine with 175k miles for my son in June.
Well maintained, overall.
Engine runs great, but has a mildly lumpy idle.
I did the usual stuff like new air filter, plugs, and PVC valve (just because).
All fluids were full and appeared in good condition.
I was stunned recently when my son said the oil light briefly popped on when taking a corner.
I told him to check the oil, and it wasn't even touching the dipstick.
Topped it off, and decided it must be an oil leak or possible sticky piston rings. I had cleaned the outside of the engine, so leaks should be easy to spot.
I got some UV dye and threw it in, and ordered some BG109.
Been a couple of weeks, no oil drips...oil level dropped just a bit, but the car hasn't been driven as much. I plan to get the car on stands and look with the UV light next weekend, but I'm not seeing any signs of leakage.
This morning I'm thinking about the issue because it seems new (the prior owner was meticulous and forthright regarding any issues and maintenance).
I know the PVC can cause oil consumption. I just replaced it, but figured maybe it is malfunctioning, so I pull it.
Nice rattle. There is some oil on the threads.
I run a wire through the oil passage, no blockage.
I reattach the vac hose and fire the car up: the valve seems to be sucked wide open at idle. Whiskey tango foxtrot?
(For reference, there isn't any notable blow-by at the oil cap or PVC inlet)
Ok... I'm thinking this might be the (or part of the) problem.
The new PCV valve is a Standard Motor Products from Rock Auto. The nice metal one, like OEM, for about $19.
Perhaps this one isn't the proper spec...?
I'm about to order an OEM valve for about $30 (ouch), and will be doing some piston soaks and a BG109 treatment probably next weekend.
What say the mighty BITOGgers? Am I on the right track?
I'm a former wrench, but pretty rusty. ;o)
Bob
Well maintained, overall.
Engine runs great, but has a mildly lumpy idle.
I did the usual stuff like new air filter, plugs, and PVC valve (just because).
All fluids were full and appeared in good condition.
I was stunned recently when my son said the oil light briefly popped on when taking a corner.
I told him to check the oil, and it wasn't even touching the dipstick.
Topped it off, and decided it must be an oil leak or possible sticky piston rings. I had cleaned the outside of the engine, so leaks should be easy to spot.
I got some UV dye and threw it in, and ordered some BG109.
Been a couple of weeks, no oil drips...oil level dropped just a bit, but the car hasn't been driven as much. I plan to get the car on stands and look with the UV light next weekend, but I'm not seeing any signs of leakage.
This morning I'm thinking about the issue because it seems new (the prior owner was meticulous and forthright regarding any issues and maintenance).
I know the PVC can cause oil consumption. I just replaced it, but figured maybe it is malfunctioning, so I pull it.
Nice rattle. There is some oil on the threads.
I run a wire through the oil passage, no blockage.
I reattach the vac hose and fire the car up: the valve seems to be sucked wide open at idle. Whiskey tango foxtrot?
(For reference, there isn't any notable blow-by at the oil cap or PVC inlet)
Ok... I'm thinking this might be the (or part of the) problem.
The new PCV valve is a Standard Motor Products from Rock Auto. The nice metal one, like OEM, for about $19.
Perhaps this one isn't the proper spec...?
I'm about to order an OEM valve for about $30 (ouch), and will be doing some piston soaks and a BG109 treatment probably next weekend.
What say the mighty BITOGgers? Am I on the right track?
I'm a former wrench, but pretty rusty. ;o)
Bob
