2010 Kia Forte 2.0L Valve cover gasket

[Sequoiasoon]

I'm considering doing my sons valve cover gasket next week. Looks pretty easy from videos. I've never done it but decently skilled in many repairs, not afraid to tackle this. One video and a couple reviews said the Fel-Pro didn't fit quite correct for spark plug tube seals but the Mahle did, maybe slight variations or wrong one?

It doesn't look like I would be saving much $$ either way. Is just ordering from dealer by VIN a better choice? Any preference from the group on Fel-Pro, Mahle, OEM? I have HondaBond to use at the timing chain cover seams. Does that need to sit to cure some after all put back together like it lists when doing timing chain tensioner on an Accord? The videos I saw was remove, clean up, RTV, reassemble and start it up. No cure times.

 

[JavierH19]

Aftermarket automotive gaskets have fallen quality wise. I'd only use oem or oem supplier nowadays. I buy lots of hydraulic cylinder, motor, and pump seals for my work and the quality has gone down there too. I now inspect every single one before walking out of the store because I've been burned once I get back and try to use them and have to drive another 1-2 hours to and from depending on traffic.

And for cure times it depends on what it says on the product and i don't know what hondabond specifies. Some say to wait some not.

 

[cptbarkey]

Valve covers on a NA 4 cylinder like yours can be fairly straightforward. The toughest part will be stubborn spark plug wires and small hoses that need removal.

Depending on the RTV you choose the ambient temperatures will determine the cure time. Do spend extra time to remove the old gasket and take care to not scratch things up.

I've never had issues with Fel Pro gaskets myself, Mahle is excellent as well.

 

[The Critic]

For a valve cover I would not spend a lot of money on RTV. The RTV is mainly for extra insurance on the sharp curvatures and seams. Permatex Ultra Gray from Walmart.com will be fine; just make sure you read the date code and confirm you have a fresh tube. The fresher the tube, the quicker it cures. If possible, I would let the car sit for a minimum of 4 hours before starting.

I despise Fel-Pro valve cover gasket kits. The tube seals are often undersized and the gasket material likes to shrink. I try to only use Fel-Pro if the car is being sold.

 

[KrisZ]

The Fel pro gasket kit worked great on my Pentastar engine, but I inquired about it on Chrysler forums and have gotten positive feedback. If you’re getting some negative stories, I would skip it and go with OEM.

I used Permatex ultra black, no cure time needed.

Edit: to clarify I never let it cure. As Critic pointed out, it has cure time.

 

[The Critic]

I used Permatex ultra black, no cure time needed.

Permatex® Ultra Black® RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, .5 OZ - Permatex

www.permatex.com

2 hrs to dry tack-free, full cure in 24 hours.

 

[Urshurak776]

I just used the cheap-o Ultra-Power valve cover gasket (RockAuto) on my sons 2014 Kia Rio. Seems to be working fine. I'll have to go back and see what rtv I used. Only used a little in a couple of areas as per the manual.

 

[KrisZ]

Permatex® Ultra Black® RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, .5 OZ - Permatex

www.permatex.com

2 hrs to dry tack-free, full cure in 24 hours.

As a “gasket helper” I never let it cure and never had an issue.
I should’ve stated I didn’t let it cure, not that’s it’s not needed, as in, it’s a manufacturer’s claim.

 

[CharBaby]

Do it right and do it once. Use an OE gasket & good RTV and you won’t be questioning anything.
Even doing it yourself, it’s not an extremely difficult job. Removing/replacing everything around the valve cover is more difficult than the gasket itself.
I’d say it is low on the difficult scale and it’ll be the last time you’ll be doing this on your sons car so do it right! YouTube(and research) is your friend. It’s a valve cover gasket, not a head gasket.

Best of success to you my friend

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Dealer has the OEM in stock for $28 so I'll pick it up tomorrow. I have some free days next week and the oil on back and side of motor bugs me. No drips on ground...yet.... just messy. We can shuffle around some cars and the close trips to work so no issue letting it sit overnight.

Thank you all for the recommendation. I do need to get to whichever store and maybe grab another smaller torque wrench. I need to check my Husky 3/8" if it goes as low as 4 lb/ft. If not at least I have a reason for a new smaller torque wrench.

 

[zzyzzx]

FelPro is the Dorman of gaskets. Available everywhere, but quality is questionable (although not as bad quality as Dorman). I recommend Mahle.

 

[The Critic]

I need to check my Husky 3/8" if it goes as low as 4 lb/ft.

Anything under 15 ft lbs is 1/4" dr territory.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/1-4-in-drive/14-in-drive-20-200-in-lb-click-torque-wrench-63881.html

 

[Sequoiasoon]

I picked up the OEM gasket and the HF Pittsburgh 1/4" torque wrench. I had a chance to do the VCG today. The slight mess from rear leak was annoying me when I did oil changes. I'm REALLY glad I did this project as the spark plug tube seals were really bad on 2 cylinders.

#1 was dry, #2 had a couple oil marks on side, #4 had a bunch of oil in it. #3 was a disaster waiting to short out the coil pack or create other issues. Gasket cracked apart trying to get off around the plugs. I used the HondaBond Ultra Flange 2 at the designated spots.

187,733 on the motor. Unknown what Pep Boys/Firestone used for the first 140k or intervals but didn't cause any issues from what I see. Since we got it it has had mostly PP with some M1. It also got a BG EPR flush I think 2 years ago and then over the last year 3 rounds of HPL EC30. Currently using PP Euro-L and 1qt HPL PCMO. Based on what I see I think the motor is very clean. The carbon stuff in filters I had in the past with EC30 I think came from the rings since this looks this way.