Oil or grease for rust prevention

[Number_35]

I feel most suggestions here environmentally irresponsible. Depositing wheel bearing grease all over the roads can’t be good for water run off. Most greases, like high temp disk brakes wheel bearing grease are harmful to aquatic life as per material safety data sheets. It disappoints me people have such little regard for these sorts of things.

I get the vehicles sprayed by Rust Check, at least annually. I believe the product is mineral-oil based. I presume it's not environmentally harmful.

Bear in mind, as well, that it's only a very small percentage of people who brother to apply any sort of rust-preventative product.

In contrast, a significant percentage of vehicles leak motor oil, ATF, gear oil, and brake fluid. I'm sure the damage done by these leaks dwarfs any damage done by rust-proofing products.

I think the biggest single thing we can do as DIYers is to take our used fluids to a proper recycling/disposal facility, and to encourage others to do likewise.

 

[64bawagon]

You mean I shouldn't burn my waste oil on my bonfires?

ATF works better

 

[0W-16]

ATF works better

But I have gallons of used motor oil to burn...

 

[Kurtatron]

I get the vehicles sprayed by Rust Check, at least annually. I believe the product is mineral-oil based. I presume it's not environmentally harmful.

Bear in mind, as well, that it's only a very small percentage of people who brother to apply any sort of rust-preventative product.

In contrast, a significant percentage of vehicles leak motor oil, ATF, gear oil, and brake fluid. I'm sure the damage done by these leaks dwarfs any damage done by rust-proofing products.

I think the biggest single thing we can do as DIYers is to take our used fluids to a proper recycling/disposal facility, and to encourage others to do likewise.

I think those things are designed to be somewhat benign to the environment, but not most petroleum greases. Simple google search shows that here in msds. Why use it deliberately when there are products better suited for this?

Also, even though I am not a fan of green fanaticism, I do think deliberate disregard is also equally offensive. My 2001 civic had an oil pump O ring seal. I had to pull the oil pan and timing belt to replace that simple seal, which I did. Used oil is incredibly toxic to water sources via water runoff.

My coworker told me a story of some lazy neighbor who disposed of his used oil by digging a hole in his backyard and burying it. That guy should have been seriously fined for that.

I’m sure there are oil protection films that are better for our surroundings. How about noxudol? I see that recommended on here all the time.

 

[law3500]

If they are semi protected areas I have used wheel bearing grease and a small paint brush to apply a very thin coat. If the area is exposed to all the elements and splashing water I use CRC Marine spray rust prevention, I have not found anyting else that will stay put, it drys clear and forms a waxy surface..

This has been the best "do it yourself" product I have found for Rust Proofing that lasts...

 

[Kurtatron]

here, noxudol gets a good ecology statement. That would be my recommendation.

 

[Number_35]

I think those things are designed to be somewhat benign to the environment, but not most petroleum greases. Simple google search shows that here in msds. Why use it deliberately when there are products better suited for this?

Also, even though I am not a fan of green fanaticism, I do think deliberate disregard is also equally offensive. My 2001 civic had an oil pump O ring seal. I had to pull the oil pan and timing belt to replace that simple seal, which I did. Used oil is incredibly toxic to water sources via water runoff.

My coworker told me a story of some lazy neighbor who disposed of his used oil by digging a hole in his backyard and burying it. That guy should have been seriously fined for that.

I’m sure there are oil protection films that are better for our surroundings. How about noxudol? I see that recommended on here all the time.

A civil-engineering saying: "Dilution is the solution to pollution."

Used motor oil is said to contaminate 1,000,000x as much water. A 5 litre oil change could contaminate 5,000,000 l of water. Think of 5000 cubic metres of water contaminated!

Some years ago I stopped a friend from pouring used motor oil down a storm sewer grate in a back lane. That was probably a combined storm/sanitary system at that time, and so would have run to a wastewater treatment plant.

I don't know whether or not a typical plant can deal with used oil in the water.

Presumably some oil would have made it into the Red River, Lake Winnipeg, the Nelson River, and ultimately Hudson Bay.

It's probably worse now, as the storm drains would go right to the river or a retention pond.

So I agree, let's try to use products that are as benign as possible, and let's dispose of them properly.

 

[GR_CoB]

@Kurtatron @Number_35 Y'all green peacers don't seem to realize that the main source of polution are not the public, but factories. Even if all of us here on BITOG unite in recycling and proper disposal and such - all it takes is a small sub-100 people chemical plant to completely overshadow those results with polution. If you still think that there is anything WE THE PEOPLE can do to fix that - think again.
CEOs should go from large private jets to small Honda Jets. It will get them where they need to go quickly, but polution will be cut down 100X times.
Yet those CEOs would rather pay for marketing to say that it's the people with used motor oil and plastic Starbucks cups who are responsible for this polution... Yea, right...
Don't get me wrong, I do my part. But I don't foolishly assume that it will make a dime of difference on global polution.
I just do what I think is right: cardboard in recycling bin, used motor oil to Autozone recycling tanks, etc.

 

[Number_35]

here, noxudol gets a good ecology statement. That would be my recommendation.

@Kurtatron @Number_35 Y'all green peacers don't seem to realize that the main source of polution are not the public, but factories. Even if all of us here on BITOG unite in recycling and proper disposal and such - all it takes is a small sub-100 people chemical plant to completely overshadow those results with polution. If you still think that there is anything WE THE PEOPLE can do to fix that - think again.
CEOs should go from large private jets to small Honda Jets. It will get them where they need to go quickly, but polution will be cut down 100X times.
Yet those CEOs would rather pay for marketing to say that it's the people with used motor oil and plastic Starbucks cups who are responsible for this polution... Yea, right...
Don't get me wrong, I do my part. But I don't foolishly assume that it will make a dime of difference on global polution.
I just do what I think is right: cardboard in recycling bin, used motor oil to Autozone recycling tanks, etc.

I agree, all I can control is my own behaviour.

 

[0W-16]

I think those things are designed to be somewhat benign to the environment, but not most petroleum greases. Simple google search shows that here in msds. Why use it deliberately when there are products better suited for this?

Also, even though I am not a fan of green fanaticism, I do think deliberate disregard is also equally offensive. My 2001 civic had an oil pump O ring seal. I had to pull the oil pan and timing belt to replace that simple seal, which I did. Used oil is incredibly toxic to water sources via water runoff.

My coworker told me a story of some lazy neighbor who disposed of his used oil by digging a hole in his backyard and burying it. That guy should have been seriously fined for that.

I’m sure there are oil protection films that are better for our surroundings. How about noxudol? I see that recommended on here all the time.

To honor you, I'm going to pour a couple of gallons of used motor oil on my burn put and set it on fire...

 

[Dg2]

I just had my wife's car done with NHOU wax/oil in Wisconsin -- Only time will tell, but it seems to have good reviews with folks in other forums for vehicles up north. With watercraft in saltwater, I've always had good results with Fluid Flim and LanoCoat (like Fluid film but thicker and far more sticky-- thus, don't want to put it in a high touch area). I've also used CRC Marine and it seemed to work okay, but if I remember right, I didn't like something it was made with at the time. I also used Boeshield T-9, much thinner with lubricating properties.

 

[mattd]

I just had my wife's car done with NHOU wax/oil in Wisconsin -- Only time will tell, but it seems to have good reviews with folks in other forums for vehicles up north. With watercraft in saltwater, I've always had good results with Fluid Flim and LanoCoat (like Fluid film but thicker and far more sticky-- thus, don't want to put it in a high touch area). I've also used CRC Marine and it seemed to work okay, but if I remember right, I didn't like something it was made with at the time. I also used Boeshield T-9, much thinner with lubricating properties.

I have no experience with the boss wax, but the oil coating washes off quickly especially in high spray areas. It will stay, more or less, in Areas that aren’t subjective to water spray. There is ALOT of prep needed for boss wax on anything but a new vehicle.

I switched to noxudol this year, I will post reviews after I have time to apply it.

 

[Dg2]

I have no experience with the boss wax, but the oil coating washes off quickly especially in high spray areas. It will stay, more or less, in Areas that aren’t subjective to water spray. There is ALOT of prep needed for boss wax on anything but a new vehicle.

I switched to noxudol this year, I will post reviews after I have time to apply it.

Good to know, I'll have to look into Noxudol for future purposes. Being that I don't have a garage up there (like I do in FL) and it was sort of an afterthought--I wasn't going to DIY something this year. From what I could find locally, my choice was between RustCheck and NHOU. Up until we moved the car up north a couple months ago, I've maintained that vehicle in like new condition, including the undercarriage and engine bay. I think that played into the shops decision to apply the boss wax without much hesitation after they took a look. Thanks for the heads up. ,

 

[wlk]

I like and use Woolwax, only real wash areas were right behind the tires. Other areas look great, I use the black so easy to tell

 

[64bawagon]

I am old enough to recall the dirt roads in our township being treated with used motor oil for dust control. This was in a municipality who's motto was "Lakeland paradise"
I would say things have gotten a lot better since then.

 

[Sc00ter1748]

I like and use Woolwax real wash areas were right behind the tires. Other areas look great, I use the black so easy to tell

I use hamnerite WAXOYL. I brush it on & it not only drys to the touch it drys clear. So no sticky surfaces. Has Ben a lifeline for my milling machines & lathes.

If any one is interested I found a amazingly effective de rusting recipe with only household items

1L or water
100g citric acid
60g of soda crystals (or if you don't have soda crystals ypu can use 40g or bicarbonate of soda insteae ) either one not both.
2 spoons af washing up liquid I used elbow grease as it cuts through oil/grease

After 5 minutes the active ingredient needed to de rust parts will be in the solution.
Mix it up & its ready to use. This solution can be used again & again untill its stops working which is indeed quite a while. I keep mine in a plastic 4L milk bottle . See picture of a old rusted square i just did for this test. It was half submerged in the solution for only 2 hours & you can see the great job it's done. I would normally leave items in the bowl for 24 hours. If you have large parts you will need to make up a larger batch & soak it a larger tub.
It's as good as off the shelf products. I have been trying to make it in to gel so it can be used on large parts but it only seems to work when the part is submerged in the solution. It's literal costs around £0.12 per litre to make, which is insane compared to off the shelf liquids.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

Or you could just move to Oregon

Nice state (minus Portland city)

where it rains all the time

Rain is too depressing. I like the sunshine, less depressing. Vancouver is the same thing.

but the cars never rust...

But then, there's this.

 

[cjcride]

I would avoid food grade products that will attract insects, rodents, etc.

Good point!

 

[NibbanaBanana]

Hi Friends.
For the outer surfaces of car where it is exposed to dirt, stones and water splashes regularly, rust prevention may require a little more extensive work,
But most of in my case, there are small areas inside (such as door hinge, footwell, at some cable connectors) that i see sign of rust and want to stop the progress.
I used to think motor oil could do the job, but some people stated that motor oils contain some acidic content which may promote the rust.
Can you please make suggestions about what type of oil or grease can i use as an easy solution?
Mineral Oil or Vegetable oil or Lithium grease ?
I prefer oily stuffs instead of paint, because oil is easy to apply everywhere while paint not. Please do not suggest me things that i may buy from e-bay or amazon as i am outside the US and need home-made things
Regards.

Been battling rust here in northeast US for over a half century. Oils and conventional greases just wash right off. Oil floats on water after all. The only thing I've found to work is to smear on white lithium grease from a tub. The spray on white lithium grease is okay but not as good as smearing on. If you can get new metal coated real good, you probably won't have a problem.

 

[Mr.GTRSpecV]

I buy two cans or more of fluid film and do my cars and my mom/sister's car. It's a bit of a messy process, but meh, gives me something to do.