I wouldn't bother, the rings are shot and the only fix is an overhaul.
oil gets black fast!
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Originally Posted By: daves66nova
I just remembered that the pcv valve is hooked up,but the other hole on the opposite side of the valve cover is open,no filter,nothing.
As was previously posted, that should have a filter or be routed to the air cleaner. In any case, that shouldn't contribute to your oil getting black.
I would suggest the consensus is that it's either fuel dilution or the HDEO doing its job at cleaning up the engine. My personal recommendation would be to do a few short OCIs (i.e. around 3,000 miles) on HDEO to help clean things. I'd also find out if it's running rich. One can still get excessive dilution even with the carb not running rich, so there may be other problems.
It may improve after a few OCIs. Let us know how it turns out.
Just remember, though; black oil, especially HDEO, isn't a bad thing in itself. The Ford 300 I recently rebuilt had a multi-year diet of Delvac 15w-40 to clean it up before a rebuild. All oil changes, including the last before the rebuild, were black as night. The engine was spotless inside when disassembled. It did have fuel dilution issues.
I just remembered that the pcv valve is hooked up,but the other hole on the opposite side of the valve cover is open,no filter,nothing.
As was previously posted, that should have a filter or be routed to the air cleaner. In any case, that shouldn't contribute to your oil getting black.
I would suggest the consensus is that it's either fuel dilution or the HDEO doing its job at cleaning up the engine. My personal recommendation would be to do a few short OCIs (i.e. around 3,000 miles) on HDEO to help clean things. I'd also find out if it's running rich. One can still get excessive dilution even with the carb not running rich, so there may be other problems.
It may improve after a few OCIs. Let us know how it turns out.
Just remember, though; black oil, especially HDEO, isn't a bad thing in itself. The Ford 300 I recently rebuilt had a multi-year diet of Delvac 15w-40 to clean it up before a rebuild. All oil changes, including the last before the rebuild, were black as night. The engine was spotless inside when disassembled. It did have fuel dilution issues.
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
The other valve cover hole should have some kind of breather (possibly going to the air cleaner)-I can't imagine what could cause black engine oil in a carbed gas motor other than a lot of sludge buildup. Personally I don't think I would run out an OCI that far in a carbureted motor, too much unburned junk from the fuel.
An open hole in the VC should have some type of breather/filter on it, or a plug. If not it is sucking up dirty unfiltered air, and probably causing all kinds of problems. A bad carb could also be to blame. I'd do a UOA in this case and see what is going on.
The other valve cover hole should have some kind of breather (possibly going to the air cleaner)-I can't imagine what could cause black engine oil in a carbed gas motor other than a lot of sludge buildup. Personally I don't think I would run out an OCI that far in a carbureted motor, too much unburned junk from the fuel.
An open hole in the VC should have some type of breather/filter on it, or a plug. If not it is sucking up dirty unfiltered air, and probably causing all kinds of problems. A bad carb could also be to blame. I'd do a UOA in this case and see what is going on.
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
I don't have a diesel!!! I'm not writing about diesels
Shouldn't have posted it in the diesel section then. That's what's throwing people off.
I don't have a diesel!!! I'm not writing about diesels
Shouldn't have posted it in the diesel section then. That's what's throwing people off.
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
I don't have a diesel!!! I'm not writing about diesels
You wrote it in the Diesel Cars/Vans/SUVs sub-forum.
IMO, based on this:
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
...
According to my w/b meter,it runs at 15.1- 16.5 almost all the time,no choke at all.I get consistent 32-33mpg on the hwy
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209,xxx [miles on truck]
...
I just remembered that the pcv valve is hooked up,but the other hole on the opposite side of the valve cover is open,no filter,nothing.
...
I do 3-4000 mile changes
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oil leak that loses a qt. every 400 miles or so
You should continue topping the oil up as frequently as possible and change it every 5000 miles and not care one whit what color the oil is - you've got a 14 year old truck with over 200k miles on it with a known emissions control problem that gets great highway fuel economy.
I don't have a diesel!!! I'm not writing about diesels
You wrote it in the Diesel Cars/Vans/SUVs sub-forum.
IMO, based on this:
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
...
According to my w/b meter,it runs at 15.1- 16.5 almost all the time,no choke at all.I get consistent 32-33mpg on the hwy
...
209,xxx [miles on truck]
...
I just remembered that the pcv valve is hooked up,but the other hole on the opposite side of the valve cover is open,no filter,nothing.
...
I do 3-4000 mile changes
...
oil leak that loses a qt. every 400 miles or so
You should continue topping the oil up as frequently as possible and change it every 5000 miles and not care one whit what color the oil is - you've got a 14 year old truck with over 200k miles on it with a known emissions control problem that gets great highway fuel economy.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
I don't have a diesel!!! I'm not writing about diesels
Shouldn't have posted it in the diesel section then. That's what's throwing people off.
SORRY TO ALL!! would i still have dilution problems even if my wide-band meter says it's running at 15-16 to 1?
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
I don't have a diesel!!! I'm not writing about diesels
Shouldn't have posted it in the diesel section then. That's what's throwing people off.
SORRY TO ALL!! would i still have dilution problems even if my wide-band meter says it's running at 15-16 to 1?
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
SORRY TO ALL!! would i still have dilution problems even if my wide-band meter says it's running at 15-16 to 1?
I think the suggestion about getting a UOA done would be your best bet for determining that. I use the smell test, but that's far less scientific. Before you worry much about tinkering with the mixture, it might be good to know if there actually is a significant amount of fuel dilution in the first place.
SORRY TO ALL!! would i still have dilution problems even if my wide-band meter says it's running at 15-16 to 1?
I think the suggestion about getting a UOA done would be your best bet for determining that. I use the smell test, but that's far less scientific. Before you worry much about tinkering with the mixture, it might be good to know if there actually is a significant amount of fuel dilution in the first place.
Besides the smelly oil, what are other symptoms?
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
Besides the smelly oil, what are other symptoms?
Smelly oil, thinner oil. Both those are rather subjective, though. The best way to tell is through a used oil analysis. If it's diluting heavily, though, you'll smell it real quick when you drain the oil.
Besides the smelly oil, what are other symptoms?
Smelly oil, thinner oil. Both those are rather subjective, though. The best way to tell is through a used oil analysis. If it's diluting heavily, though, you'll smell it real quick when you drain the oil.
Originally Posted By: scurvy
It's black as coal the first time you turn the key in a diesel.
No not necessary here.....
you can go out to my FORD and pull the stick and it's just starting to turn dark,NOT black but dark at 50hrs,also most our equipment at work is the same,the ones that turn fast are the ones that get neglected on there OCI.
It's black as coal the first time you turn the key in a diesel.
No not necessary here.....
you can go out to my FORD and pull the stick and it's just starting to turn dark,NOT black but dark at 50hrs,also most our equipment at work is the same,the ones that turn fast are the ones that get neglected on there OCI.
Originally Posted By: Gearhead113
I wouldn't bother, the rings are shot and the only fix is an overhaul.
How are you so sure of this?
I wouldn't bother, the rings are shot and the only fix is an overhaul.
How are you so sure of this?
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
According to my w/b meter,it runs at 15.1- 16.5 almost all the time,no choke at all.I get consistent 32-33mpg on the hwy
So running rich isn't the issue...but it is running quite lean. 14.7 is where you want to be at cruise.
According to my w/b meter,it runs at 15.1- 16.5 almost all the time,no choke at all.I get consistent 32-33mpg on the hwy
So running rich isn't the issue...but it is running quite lean. 14.7 is where you want to be at cruise.
mileage for me.Isn't 14.7 just a compromise for power and emissions?
well, if you believe in looking at your oil to determine its condition you should just have to sniff the tailpipe fumes a bit and you should be able to determine your tuning options!
14.7 is what every OEM programs into the computer for the target cruise AF ratio. Take it for what it's worth...they have spent the R&D dollars to get to that point so there is some validity there. lol
As for getting the most power, that would mean richening the tune....and for best economy that would be to lean the mixture. With a computer controlled engine, the computer obviously instantly handles this for you so you can't get in trouble by going too lean (or too rich). With a carb and a wideband, you can come close to a computer tune per se, it just takes tuning time and patience. I love tuning carbs with WB 02s. Personally, going too lean to eek out a mpg or 2 more isn't worth it. With your setup, I think you are getting the most mpg you will see through tuning alone. Try lightening the vehicle by removing unnecessary junk and try putting a couple more psi in the tires.
As for getting the most power, that would mean richening the tune....and for best economy that would be to lean the mixture. With a computer controlled engine, the computer obviously instantly handles this for you so you can't get in trouble by going too lean (or too rich). With a carb and a wideband, you can come close to a computer tune per se, it just takes tuning time and patience. I love tuning carbs with WB 02s. Personally, going too lean to eek out a mpg or 2 more isn't worth it. With your setup, I think you are getting the most mpg you will see through tuning alone. Try lightening the vehicle by removing unnecessary junk and try putting a couple more psi in the tires.
When I bought new my 04 Nissan Altima 2.5s, the oil was starting to turn black during the first week and it's still that way after each OCI. I use the same oil in my wifes 01 RX-300 and her's is still clean looking(ahhhh, kinda!) after 3-4000 OCI.
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