That filter (MO-041) was original equipment on the V10 Vipers. A lot of guys put them on Hellcats. I believe they are more efficient and the media appears to be sturdier. I went back to using the 899 after noticing some QC issues on the 041, like closed louvers and gaskets that weren’t attached to the can. Another difference is the 899 has a base end bypass rather than dome end.
Oil filter recommendations for 2018 Ram 1500 Hemi.
- Thread starter Corneileous
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That wasn’t my point, though… I was saying, if there has been people who were actually denied warranty for using improper oil weight and/or the wrong filter, how would you even find out about it unless somebody said they did or you walked into any dealership and asked them? I don’t know how often it happens. I just don’t want to take that risk so I just use as close to what they say I have to as I can.
But I’m not really tying myself up in knots over it either. It really doesn’t bother me that I can’t run the bigger/better filter or the heavier weight oil. If I didn’t have this warranty, I dern-sure would just like how I would definitely be servicing my transmission in about the next 10,000 miles but if what I do keeps my warranty coverage happy, I’m fine with that. I kinda have no choice. Besides- I’m not fully or totally convinced the larger filter or heavier oil is the ultimate answer to the problem my engine could have. Does it help? Probably but I think the main underlying problem is cheap Chinese steel lifters with questionable forging techniques but then again, people have the cam and lifter failure even in the HD trucks with the 392 and those people are recommended to run 0w40 full synthetic. I dunno, maybe that’s from heavier use….
I definitely wouldn’t recommend the cheap semi-synthetic oil and upwards of 10,000 mile oil changes regardless the case but I believe changing your oil more often and at least running a better quality oil does better than what the factory says I should use.
My last truck- a 2008 1500 with the Hemi, all it ever saw was 5w20. But, I was running Mobil 1 FS ever since I bought it when it was 4 years old and it just depended on what filter I chose. Sometimes it was the K&N or once I used a Bosch filter. Think I might’ve ran a Mobil 1 filter and maybe a Wix. Had that truck for 5 years and it was 10 years old with 69,000 miles on it when I sold it. Think it might’ve had the onset of the manifold tick but no lifter tick. Changed the oil about 4500 miles until the last couple oil changes where it got changed at 5500.
I most likely will but there’s been a lot of suggestions…lol. It’s a lot to process.
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Because first of all, anything which is a common occurrence would be posted on a forum somewhere. You're not seeing it posted on forums because it doesn't happen.
Secondly, viscosity is measured at a single temperature, but it gets thinner with heat and thicker as it cools. If your engine can be damaged by running 5w-30 in the summer, then it will be damaged by running a 5w-20 in the winter because it's actually thicker at -20 than 5w-30 is at 60.
Engines can run a range of viscosity's across a wide range of temperatures, engineers know this, they're not going to be able to prove that a 5w-30 caused damage where a 5w-20 wouldn't have, it's physically impossible unless you're perhaps at some extreme end of the scale like north alaska in the winter.
Thirdly, the hemi has not changed since 2009 and various owners manuals throughout the year actually recommend 5w-30.
Well, again, just because people don’t seem to talk about it doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen. Which, I’m not saying it does happen, I’m just saying I feel it’s hard to believe that it doesn’t happen. Either way regardless, it’s just a risk I don’t wanna take.
Couldn’t agree with you more. Besides that, for as hot as these new hemi’s run anyways, I really don’t understand why 5W-30 wouldn’t be preferred anyway because at 250° for the normal engine oil temperature, you would think that one thing alone would disqualify 5W20 even if the oil brand does claim it’ll protect to or even above that temperature.
Oh yeah, I know. I don’t know about the previous 5.7’s before my 2008 but I would even say the 5.7 in my 2008 probably wasn’t much the different than what the one in my 2018 is. I’ve heard that they’ve updated the lifters a few times but other than that, it’s still the same engine because yes, my owners manual for that truck said that 5W20 was recommended but it also said that I could use 5W30 if 5W20 wasn’t readily available.
How so? The warranty statement you posted clearly turns a "recommended" oil called out in the OM to a "required" oil. That's exactly what that warranty statement does - it locks in the "recommend" fluids in OM to become "required". And it's entirely possible, depending on the dealership of course, that if someone had an engine problem that they thought was caused by the oil (and maybe even not), and they were told a non-recommended oil in the OM was used, then they could technically deny the warranty based on the warranty statement you showed.
SAE J300 measures viscosity at 3 conditions - cold under dynamic shear for the W grade and two hot points: a) 100C under gravity (KV100 viscosity in cSt) and b) 150C under dynamic shear (HTHS viscosity in cP units).
If there was damage due to oil in the summer, it would be from the KV100 grade & HTHS viscosity, not the W grade - ie, the 20 thinned down too much from the summer heat combined with hard use conditions for example. And the W grade (regardless of the KV100 grade part of the multi-viscosity oil) will be called out in the OM. A 5W-20 and a 5W-50 are both acceptable for any starting conditions where a 5W is called out. Some OMs might show an oil viscosity chart that shows for instance both 0W-20 and 5W-20 if the temperature use gets below the minimum 5W use conditions (ie, Alaska, Minnesota, Canada, ect).
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Yes I was referring to the 100C, but my point was how viscosity changes as the temperature changes.
Yes, all oil gets thinner as it gets hotter. That's the main reason a thicker KV100/HTHS viscosity is better for instances where the oil runs hotter than normal ... like in heavy towing, track use, high speed driving, etc. Even the Toyota OMs of today says to use thicker oil if the vehicle is used in more demanding conditions.
You keep your OCIs moderate so filter efficiency isn’t such a big deal. You’re gonna be dumping the particles caught in suspension out early. You don’t need a silicone ADBV on that truck especially for short intervals. Just about any basic oil filter is sufficient. PH48 is like $4 at Walmart. ST10060 $3 and change. Fram orange can is around $4. You can get the conventional PG or EG for cheap also. Any of those are sufficient for your OCI.
Yeah, that’s kind of what I’m thinking. I don’t really see it necessary to spend more money on a filter that would probably be better used for those who do 7000 and above-mile oil changes especially considering that when I talked to a Wix Filter rep a while back, I was told that for short intervals like this, the regular Wix filter would be plenty and would actually even be a better choice over the XP due to the fact that the XP is designed to not filter as small of particles so that you get longer use out of it.
But as it turns out, I was actually currently using the manufacturer OE Mopar filter instead of the royal purple 10-48 and my attached oil analysis report says this filter did pretty well so even though it may cost a little more than those filters you recommended, that’s probably what I’m gonna keep using; not necessarily for what this oil analysis says but for partly that, and for the fact that because of my lifetime warranty, if something were to happen to my motor, hopefully this would make them a little happier to see that I’m at least using the OE filter.
Oh, and just saw that you and the rest of the other members know, the first sample column on the right and the second one to the left of it was both PUP 5w20 with a Wix 57060XP filter….
Third column going left was the one and only interval with the Amsoil SS 5w20 and their Amsoil EA15K50 oil filter.
Fourth column going left was the first run of Schaeffers 9000 Supreme 5w20 and a Wix 57060XP filter.
Fifth column going left was the one and only time I ran the Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 and a Royal Purple 10-48 filter and of course the column on the far left is the current results from Schaefer’s 9000 extreme 5W-20 and a Mopar OE filter which I believe is the MO–399.
Sounds like ya gotta plan then. Seems good to me.
UOAs look fine.
Supertech oil filters FTW
