Oil brand/Viscosity for Honda GVC 160 whats best?

[Superbuick96]

I'll be picking up my new mower a Husqvarna with the Honda GVC 160. Wanted to know from owners of mowers with this same engine, what oil they are using. And what is the absolute best drink for this engine, price doesnt matter, I want the best!

 

[Bebop367]

I use Rotella 10w-30, CJ4/SM in a GVC190 Honda on a pressure washer.
It has serve me well.

 

[paul246]

I use Redline 10W30. Figured why not since the engines takes only 600cc. I change it once, at the end of the season. Exactly the same thing for my Honda snowblower, same engine.

 

[JHZR2]

Amsoil ACD 10w-30/30

 

[Pete591]

Suggestion;

Amsoil ASE 10W-30 SAE30

Do twice season changes July and October. The sump is so small and the heat and shear so intense in these aircooled engines I have found that even Redline and M-1 can shear down a full viscosity grade by doing UOA's.

 

[Pablo]

My mower has the same engine. I think I changed the oil 4 years ago or so. ACD SAE 30/10w-30.

 

[Pete591]

Could Amsoil ATM 10W-30 be a good choice too?

 

[1999nick]

Your mower should come with a 20 oz bottle of oil for the initial fill. Use this oil for 5 hours, then drain, and put in the 5W- or 10W30 synthetic of your choice. These Honda 160's are easy on oil.

My experience with this engine goes back to when I purchased a mower equipped with this engine back in 2000. I have kept an hour meter on this engine, and it has just passed 500 hours. After the original fill, which I dumped at about 5 hours, I used Mobil 1 for the next few years. It was changed once a year, at around 60 hours. It has never required oil to be added during the OCI. It always stays right on the full mark. I used 5W30 up until last year, when I used up my old supply of SL rated M1. I then began to use M1 High Mileage oil, 10W30, which is still SL rated. I have noted that the Amsoil 10W30/30 oil recommended for small engines is still SL rated, as is the 5W30 oil Briggs & Stratton sells under their own name. German GC 0W30 was also still SL rated.

I'm sure most any SM oil would be fine; I just feel more comfortable with the SL oils and their non-catalytic converter saving formula.

 

[mva]

I am running Amsoil 0W-40 in my Honda mower with a GVC160.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aff.aspx

I am very happy with it.

My lawn is about 1/2 acre and my mower is 10 years old and I have ran straight 30W and various multi-grade dino including pennzoil YB 5W30; typically changed once a year. With the dino oil I was getting a puff of blue smoke going quickly from idle to full throttle.

With the Amsoil the puff of blue doesn't happen. Also, with the Amsoil the motor seems to have more power for long grass. Last fall I didn't bother changing the Amsoil, I justed topped it up and I am on my second season on the Amsoil.

 

[Pete591]

GVC 160

My edger has this engine and it likes 5W-30 synthetic oil best. It just starts easier and seems to be doing well. No oil buring issues.

I have a big GVX 9HP Honda on my snowblower and use 5W-30 synthetic in that too.

I agree with doing an oil change for sure at 5 hours. The briggs & stratton manual states to do so. Might as well get it off to a good start.

 

[punisher]

German Castrol. I change it about every 30 or so hours (1 mowing season). FWIW there was another thread in here about oil temps. I checked mine today and it was 195F after ~40 minutes of use, ambient 85F.

I also suggest changing that initial oil sooner than 5 hours. I changed mine after the first hour, at 5 hours, then a regular schedule. Plenty of glitter in that first change.

 

[Superbuick96]

Originally Posted By: 1999nick
Your mower should come with a 20 oz bottle of oil for the initial fill. Use this oil for 5 hours, then drain, and put in the 5W- or 10W30 synthetic of your choice. These Honda 160's are easy on oil.

My experience with this engine goes back to when I purchased a mower equipped with this engine back in 2000. I have kept an hour meter on this engine, and it has just passed 500 hours. After the original fill, which I dumped at about 5 hours, I used Mobil 1 for the next few years. It was changed once a year, at around 60 hours. It has never required oil to be added during the OCI. It always stays right on the full mark. I used 5W30 up until last year, when I used up my old supply of SL rated M1. I then began to use M1 High Mileage oil, 10W30, which is still SL rated. I have noted that the Amsoil 10W30/30 oil recommended for small engines is still SL rated, as is the 5W30 oil Briggs & Stratton sells under their own name. German GC 0W30 was also still SL rated.

I'm sure most any SM oil would be fine; I just feel more comfortable with the SL oils and their non-catalytic converter saving formula.

Where do you pick up hour meters at?

 

[1999nick]

There are many sources for small engine hour meters. Just search for that subject online. Your can find them in a price range from about $20 to $50. The more expensive ones also have a tachometer feature. The Briggs & Stratton website has one for about $23 that will work on most lawnmower engines. Most of these meters have a sealed in battery that is good for about 5 years.

 

[live_to_hunt]

I have had my Honda Mower for 6 years it has the Honda 5 Hp its red. I have run super tech 5w30, Pennzoil 30wt, Valvoline 5w30, I change it once a year the oil never comes out real dark. 5 of my buddies all have Honda mowers too. We all change the oil sometime over the summer and every ones mower works fine. I think the engine will run on almost anything..

 

[FZ1]

M1 EP 10-30 changed 2x per year. Runs smoother and turns a few more RPMS with the synthetic.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
M1 EP 10-30 changed 2x per year. Runs smoother and turns a few more RPMS with the synthetic.


Why would your governor behave differently with synthetic in the case? I smell placebo.

 

[Propflux01]

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Originally Posted By: FZ1
M1 EP 10-30 changed 2x per year. Runs smoother and turns a few more RPMS with the synthetic.


Why would your governor behave differently with synthetic in the case? I smell placebo.
M1 oils are known to be at the 'thinner' range of the viscosity lines. Perhaps his 'placebo' is actually a result of less viscous drag?

 

[Propflux01]

I Just bought a pressure washer with a Honda 160 on it, and in the box was a bottle of 30w Briggs and Straiten oil. In the owners manual is states 10w-30 recommended, but 30W can be used. So I figure I will just run the 30W for the 5 hours of break-in, then go with the same 10w-30 I use in my Honda-160 powered mower. PP 10w-30

 

[FZ1]

No,man. I hear and feel, what I hear and feel. Maybe the motor was not turning at the governed rpm with the break in oil.

 

[Propflux01]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
No,man. I hear and feel, what I hear and feel. Maybe the motor was not turning at the governed rpm with the break in oil.


Thats my point.. With the M1 oils being 'thinner', its allowing your equipment to turn a slightly higher RPM due to less 'oil drag'...