Ok guys I have a 2013 ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. Ever since new I've had the hemi tick. At first it worried me but after reading that it's just the nature of the beast it doesn't bother me anymore. Anyway on to my point. Over the past 4 oil changes I have tried different oil brands to see if any have an affect on the tick, I have ran pp,royal purple, valvoline synpower, and pu, and I have to say that no oil really changed the sound that much. The current fill is rp and the last was vsp. I plan on going back to the synpower for the remainder of the trucks life because it's a American company and from my under standings is a great oil. I change my oil around 6500 miles regardless of conditions. Would synpower be a good oil for this engine or do I need to consider a different oil. Thanks
oil brand and the hemi tick
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Is that Hemi a pushrod motor or overhead cam?
Yes Synpower is good, have you considered the Valvoline full synthetic high mileage with Maxlife technology? It's good stuff too.
In my opinion, with a 6500 mile oci none of the oils you mentioned or any other quality synthetic would worry me one bit. Synpower would be an excellent choice along with many others, just so it meets the weight and spec for the truck. Good luck
Synpower is good for 6500 miles oci w normal driving. As other people suggested, full syn oil is even better and longer oci
*What is the recommended grade of oil for your HEMI?
*0W20, 5W20??
*Is 5W30 allowable???
I have often eliminated an undesirable noise from an engine just changing oil grade(if allowable). Especially in warmer climates!
Mazda3 in my signature requires 5W20 and nothing else in the owners manual(OM). Which we do use the 5W20 in the cold months. But the rest of the year, this engine sees only 5W30 and WE LIKE IT BETTER. No MPG differences nor acceleration differences.
And, I have tested both 5W20 & 5W30 in both winter and summer as our comparison. Yes, winter MPG is lower than summer on both oils but, the same when compared to one another as is acceleration!
Funny thing is, I have used 5W30 in the Mazda3 in the winter and, the MPG is slightly better than 5W20, IDKY! And there is no issues with cold weather engine starting with the 5W30 nor throttle response issues!
As the matter of fact(ATMOF), other than a bit of engine noise with the 5W20, I see/feel no noticeable differences between either grade of oil.
Just a thought!
CB
*0W20, 5W20??
*Is 5W30 allowable???
I have often eliminated an undesirable noise from an engine just changing oil grade(if allowable). Especially in warmer climates!
Mazda3 in my signature requires 5W20 and nothing else in the owners manual(OM). Which we do use the 5W20 in the cold months. But the rest of the year, this engine sees only 5W30 and WE LIKE IT BETTER. No MPG differences nor acceleration differences.
And, I have tested both 5W20 & 5W30 in both winter and summer as our comparison. Yes, winter MPG is lower than summer on both oils but, the same when compared to one another as is acceleration!
Funny thing is, I have used 5W30 in the Mazda3 in the winter and, the MPG is slightly better than 5W20, IDKY! And there is no issues with cold weather engine starting with the 5W30 nor throttle response issues!
As the matter of fact(ATMOF), other than a bit of engine noise with the 5W20, I see/feel no noticeable differences between either grade of oil.
Just a thought!
CB
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Originally Posted By: horse123
What tick? EVERY engine ticks, it's valvetrain.
Or injectors, or exhaust, etc., etc.! Like my Cherokee.
What tick? EVERY engine ticks, it's valvetrain.
Or injectors, or exhaust, etc., etc.! Like my Cherokee.
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: horse123
What tick? EVERY engine ticks, it's valvetrain.
Or injectors, or exhaust, etc., etc.! Like my Cherokee.
My truck doesn't have the noise so I haven't tried isolating on my personal vehicle, but from reading up there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer from those who do experience the noise. Some engines develop it almost right off the lot while others (like mine) can go 150k+ miles and never have a peep of ticking. It's just one of those things, much like how some 3.5l V6s burned oil at a high rate and others didn't. Longevity wasn't affected, but some had that characteristic.
Originally Posted By: horse123
What tick? EVERY engine ticks, it's valvetrain.
Or injectors, or exhaust, etc., etc.! Like my Cherokee.
My truck doesn't have the noise so I haven't tried isolating on my personal vehicle, but from reading up there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer from those who do experience the noise. Some engines develop it almost right off the lot while others (like mine) can go 150k+ miles and never have a peep of ticking. It's just one of those things, much like how some 3.5l V6s burned oil at a high rate and others didn't. Longevity wasn't affected, but some had that characteristic.
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
!
Funny thing is, I have used 5W30 in the Mazda3 in the winter and, the MPG is slightly better than 5W20, IDKY! And there is no issues with cold weather engine starting with the 5W30 nor throttle response issues!
CB
Most likely, the pistons and rings + valvetrain operate less in boundary lubrication regime with the 5w30. If that's the case, the additive package will last longer aswell when using 5w30. Boundary lubrication is characterized as high friction or high dependance on anti-wear or friction modifying additives. It's an unavoidable but definitely undesireable state of lubrication.
Shanow recently posted an interesting thread on the subject, including stribeck curve and numerical examples to show the differences between grades.
!
Funny thing is, I have used 5W30 in the Mazda3 in the winter and, the MPG is slightly better than 5W20, IDKY! And there is no issues with cold weather engine starting with the 5W30 nor throttle response issues!
CB
Most likely, the pistons and rings + valvetrain operate less in boundary lubrication regime with the 5w30. If that's the case, the additive package will last longer aswell when using 5w30. Boundary lubrication is characterized as high friction or high dependance on anti-wear or friction modifying additives. It's an unavoidable but definitely undesireable state of lubrication.
Shanow recently posted an interesting thread on the subject, including stribeck curve and numerical examples to show the differences between grades.
Synpower is a great oil, your hemi will run forever on it. Just change according to the OLM in your truck.
moparguy19, You've already tried 5 brands of 5W-20 and your engine still ticks - now it's time to move up in viscosity - try 10W-30. Sometimes thicker oils lubricate better and thus eliminates the noise. And if you get thick oil anxiety, get yourself a clear glass jar and fill it up 1/2 way with 10W-30 and put it next to your computer. Watch it slosh around so freely and then ask yourself why you didn't try that sooner.
Moparguy: From one 5.7L owner to another... Look for an oil with a High Moly and Zinc ppm...
There are many owners within the Ram Forums who have reported having the so called Hemi-Tick which is reported to be coming from the MDS Lifters...I have no idea if this noise is due to lack of proper oil psi or a [censored] design... One owner reported one of his MDS Lifter collapsed and ceased and totally deformed the lobe on the cam...
There are many thoughts and ideas to what this a Ticking noise actually is...
One owners 5.7L developed slight Tick and was getting worse over time... He switched to Redline 5W-20 which has a Large amount of Moly with a RP oil Filter and the Tick went away and has never returned... Many owners are now saying use a synthetic oil with lots of Moly... Zinc is a major plus as well...
Of Course Everyone has their opinion... I am right now going to use 5Qts M1 EP 0W-20 & 2Qts M1 HM 5W-30 which is loaded with Zinc for my summer oil change coming up in a few weeks... Preventive Maintenance... I am also seriously thinking of pouring in 300ml of M0S2 as well...
Many 5.7L owners due to the MDS lifters have drawn a CEL with using a higher Viscosity Oil... Some of got the CEL using a 5W-30.... It is hit and miss...Stay within the the 30wt...
There are many owners within the Ram Forums who have reported having the so called Hemi-Tick which is reported to be coming from the MDS Lifters...I have no idea if this noise is due to lack of proper oil psi or a [censored] design... One owner reported one of his MDS Lifter collapsed and ceased and totally deformed the lobe on the cam...
There are many thoughts and ideas to what this a Ticking noise actually is...
One owners 5.7L developed slight Tick and was getting worse over time... He switched to Redline 5W-20 which has a Large amount of Moly with a RP oil Filter and the Tick went away and has never returned... Many owners are now saying use a synthetic oil with lots of Moly... Zinc is a major plus as well...
Of Course Everyone has their opinion... I am right now going to use 5Qts M1 EP 0W-20 & 2Qts M1 HM 5W-30 which is loaded with Zinc for my summer oil change coming up in a few weeks... Preventive Maintenance... I am also seriously thinking of pouring in 300ml of M0S2 as well...
Many 5.7L owners due to the MDS lifters have drawn a CEL with using a higher Viscosity Oil... Some of got the CEL using a 5W-30.... It is hit and miss...Stay within the the 30wt...
I have used M1, QSUD and PP all in 5w20 grade. The engined ticked with all. Subjectively I felt that M1 ticked more. Data to back that up? None. I use PP because on sale the price is ok and it is touted to be a great oil. I thought about doing a 30 weight as we tow a lot but I prefer the cold flow properties of the 20 weight.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
moparguy19, You've already tried 5 brands of 5W-20 and your engine still ticks - now it's time to move up in viscosity - try 10W-30. Sometimes thicker oils lubricate better and thus eliminates the noise. And if you get thick oil anxiety, get yourself a clear glass jar and fill it up 1/2 way with 10W-30 and put it next to your computer. Watch it slosh around so freely and then ask yourself why you didn't try that sooner.
So merk. How does this jar test in any way reflect the conditions of any engine ever built since the dawn of humanity.
Your posts are evolving from absurd to nonsense.
And the the modern hemi is ca in block,but you already knew that
Op. We've got 5 hemi engines in our family. The tick is injector pulse. Some are louder than others.
My 2013 truck ticks but my 06 charger doesn't. My brothers has 280k and ticks but runs like a dream.
Nature of the beast.
You can go thicker if you want. The nonsense that the vvt or mds won't work right is utter hogwash and if someone tells you otherwise they are clueless
moparguy19, You've already tried 5 brands of 5W-20 and your engine still ticks - now it's time to move up in viscosity - try 10W-30. Sometimes thicker oils lubricate better and thus eliminates the noise. And if you get thick oil anxiety, get yourself a clear glass jar and fill it up 1/2 way with 10W-30 and put it next to your computer. Watch it slosh around so freely and then ask yourself why you didn't try that sooner.
So merk. How does this jar test in any way reflect the conditions of any engine ever built since the dawn of humanity.
Your posts are evolving from absurd to nonsense.
And the the modern hemi is ca in block,but you already knew that
Op. We've got 5 hemi engines in our family. The tick is injector pulse. Some are louder than others.
My 2013 truck ticks but my 06 charger doesn't. My brothers has 280k and ticks but runs like a dream.
Nature of the beast.
You can go thicker if you want. The nonsense that the vvt or mds won't work right is utter hogwash and if someone tells you otherwise they are clueless
Originally Posted By: Clevy
So merk. How does this jar test in any way reflect the conditions of any engine ever built since the dawn of humanity.
Because if you start your car up in the same room as where your computer resides, that flow you see in the jar is what your engine will experience on startup.
So merk. How does this jar test in any way reflect the conditions of any engine ever built since the dawn of humanity.
Because if you start your car up in the same room as where your computer resides, that flow you see in the jar is what your engine will experience on startup.
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