5W-20 Obsolete LOL its the first oil I got for my New 2022 Mazda CX5 Valvoline Full Synthetic Extended Protection!
Obsolete grade/type: 5W-20 synthetic?
- Thread starter The Critic
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According to some sites Ive seen, the recommended oil viscosity for my caravan is 5w-20 even though the manual specs 5w-30. So, it may have been back specced some time ago. I will never run anything less than an xw-30 in it, and currently have Rotella T5 15w-40 in it. The 15w is fine during warmer weather. I'm willing to go a grade heavier than spec, but not lighter. Maybe I'm strange that way...
As for 5w-20 being obsolete, I still see plenty of it around.
As for 5w-20 being obsolete, I still see plenty of it around.
If I were to tell some idiot on Reddit that 0w-20 and 5w-20 are the same they will swear up and down that 0w-20 will damage an engine designed for 5w-20. 99% of people, mechanics included, have no idea what those numbers mean or how oil viscosity works and can't use enough common sense to realize 5w-20 and 0w-20 are functionally equivalent.
What will these people do if we get rid of the grade stamped on their 2008 Accord's oil cap?
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I learned my lesson about telling people about oil on Reddit. I got down voted a lot when I said that Mobil 1 5w-30 was not the right oil for a BMW. Everyone swore it was. Oh, well, not my car.
Yeah I always get down voted into oblivion on there if I say anything about oil. Totally fine if someone wants to pour a bottle of Lucas into their car but if you step in and say "just use a thicker fully formulated oil" ermahgerd you'll ruin the engine!!!!!
I used Lucas in my engine for a long time too. I stopped once I realized through posts on here that it's just a VII and all it does is dilute the motor oil. I still have a gallon jug of it around. I use it in my mother's Envoy to try and help slow the oil burning.
ITs amazing how little most mechanics seem to know about oil. I asked a mechanic once about running 5w-40 HDEO in my van during the winter. He said it should be fine, but it may make it a bit sluggish. Then I asked him about 15w-40. He said it would totally lock my engine up. Then I asked about during the summer, as a strictly summer oil. He said no, it would put a lot of undue strain on the engine components.
I should post this question on Reddit and see what responses I get.
The 22 models now spec 0W20 for the HEMI.
If it’s Group-IV PAO give me a 0W20.
If it’s Group-III make it a 5W20.
If it’s Group-III make it a 5W20.
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There was a post yesterday about a guy using 5 different oils for an oil change
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Why 'obsolete'?
5W-20 is potentially either cheaper or 'stouter' (less VII, thicker base oil,
less shearing, lower Noack) compared to a 0W-20. I think that's about it.
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Why 'obsolete'?
5W-20 is potentially either cheaper or 'stouter' (less VII, thicker base oil,
less shearing, lower Noack) compared to a 0W-20. I think that's about it.
.
Turbo maybe?
The difference between 5W-20 and 0W-20 is the CCS and MRV viscosities. CCS for 0W is performed at -35°C whereas for 5W it is at -30°C. MRV for both is done 5°C lower. So to get a 0W requires better cold temperature viscosity all around, and pour point isn't part of the SAE J300 requirements.
The oil cap on my brothers 2016 Wrangler says 5w20. I imagine this is the case for all JK’s (2018?) and other Chrysler vehicles.
It doesn’t require a synthetic, but factory OCI’s are around 10k too. I wouldn’t want to do that with a conventional. 5w20 synthetic it is.
It doesn’t require a synthetic, but factory OCI’s are around 10k too. I wouldn’t want to do that with a conventional. 5w20 synthetic it is.
You are correct however you slice it it boils down to pour point. When I say pour point I don't mean just pouring out the bottle I mean how it acts in cold weather therefore thank you for the technical explanation.
Actually no it does not. Pour point only measures pour point which was once used as a metric for cranking and pumpability. There are reasons it is no longer used this way.
There's no technical analog to pour point in engine operation. People keep trying however.
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Indeed, and that reason is that oil that passed the pour point test failed to pump and killed a large number of engines.
A 5W-20 is going to have somewhat less VIIs than a 0W-20, so I suppose that if you're in a climate with milder winters it might be a bit more shear stable. But if it gets very cold where you drive you're going to want the better low temperature pumpability I would think.
Pour point is something that I still have difficulty with. I may have some sort of a mental block when it comes to pour point.
ccs, mrv and pumpability aside, I keep thinking if you can "pump" two oils per spec and both meet the cold temp (winter) spec but one pours, drips or flows easier and can go through tiny holes and get to the moving parts faster ... then it must be better for the engine.
How much better? idk, it could be insignificant but according to many including Castrol, "Most (%75?) of engine wear occurs during warm-up ..."
Basically two same W oils "meet the winter spec" and are "pumpable" but one flows or pours/drips faster ... so I want that one!
Having said that, I use a lot of 10W-30 since the 10 is still well within my winter temp range. So I'm not afraid otherwise I would use 5W or even 0W. But if it was very cold and no block heater, given the same W rating, I would prefer the oil with better pour point. Maybe it's just a "feel good or better" type of thing.
ccs, mrv and pumpability aside, I keep thinking if you can "pump" two oils per spec and both meet the cold temp (winter) spec but one pours, drips or flows easier and can go through tiny holes and get to the moving parts faster ... then it must be better for the engine.
How much better? idk, it could be insignificant but according to many including Castrol, "Most (%75?) of engine wear occurs during warm-up ..."
Basically two same W oils "meet the winter spec" and are "pumpable" but one flows or pours/drips faster ... so I want that one!
Having said that, I use a lot of 10W-30 since the 10 is still well within my winter temp range. So I'm not afraid otherwise I would use 5W or even 0W. But if it was very cold and no block heater, given the same W rating, I would prefer the oil with better pour point. Maybe it's just a "feel good or better" type of thing.
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