Toyota Genuine Motor Oil
non-true synthetics...a waste?
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Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
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It all depends on what you want, for example QSUD oil plus filter for my car comes to about 25 with tax, doing mobil 1 is over 30 bucks plus tax. Conventional (Mobil super 5000) is a 17 buck change with tax for oil+Filter.
In my engine i see no benefits for the synthetic other than to help clean it out.
In my engine i see no benefits for the synthetic other than to help clean it out.
If you are going to use synthetic to get that 10K OCI, don't forget about that extra 50$ you spend on UOI's to make sure it's still "good enough".....
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
AFAIK, a blend is also not synthetic.
So take that as you will.
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
AFAIK, a blend is also not synthetic.
So take that as you will.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
Oh, and on top of that - you may have forgot that Max Life also has a Synpower version...
so if I were to say 'Max Life' it could mean either or. That's why I specified. Maybe you should think about that first too before adding some comment.
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
Oh, and on top of that - you may have forgot that Max Life also has a Synpower version...
so if I were to say 'Max Life' it could mean either or. That's why I specified. Maybe you should think about that first too before adding some comment.
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
Oh, and on top of that - you may have forgot that Max Life also has a Synpower version...
so if I were to say 'Max Life' it could mean either or. That's why I specified. Maybe you should think about that first too before adding some comment.
I know maxlife has a full syn version but you said blend and conventional nothing about full syn, and most people comment if it was synpower maxlife, either way, it wouldnt be conventional. I never said it was synthetic as I said it was a blend. Maybe you should cool off, actually read what I put and think about that before adding another comment just trying to stir the pot.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: zerosoma
If there were no sales, rebates, warranty claims, or any other stuff to sway me to buy oil, at this point and time I would continually always buy Valvoline Max Life Conventional.
Our vehicles run smoother, quieter, and gain horsepower when we use it compared with other oils in its price range.
It is semi-synthetic but a dude with a Buick Regal on here went almost 8k on Max Life Conv awhile back and it still had usable additive left in it.
Quaker State has a great synthetic oil for its price. It is the best deal going for the Group III synthetics at an every day price (wal mart). I've run it with no problems.
I wouldn't say that they are a "waste" per se, as they are much cheaper than RP, Redline, Motul, etc. They are a solid oil at a solid price. They (generally) perform within their price range.
AFAIK, its always been a blend, a blend is not conventinoal.
Oh, and on top of that - you may have forgot that Max Life also has a Synpower version...
so if I were to say 'Max Life' it could mean either or. That's why I specified. Maybe you should think about that first too before adding some comment.
I know maxlife has a full syn version but you said blend and conventional nothing about full syn, and most people comment if it was synpower maxlife, either way, it wouldnt be conventional. I never said it was synthetic as I said it was a blend. Maybe you should cool off, actually read what I put and think about that before adding another comment just trying to stir the pot.
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Originally Posted By: Stephen_G
It all depends on what you want, for example QSUD oil plus filter for my car comes to about 25 with tax, doing mobil 1 is over 30 bucks plus tax. Conventional (Mobil super 5000) is a 17 buck change with tax for oil+Filter.
In my engine i see no benefits for the synthetic other than to help clean it out.
That benifit is very important.
It all depends on what you want, for example QSUD oil plus filter for my car comes to about 25 with tax, doing mobil 1 is over 30 bucks plus tax. Conventional (Mobil super 5000) is a 17 buck change with tax for oil+Filter.
In my engine i see no benefits for the synthetic other than to help clean it out.
That benifit is very important.
Originally Posted By: jek
all good info here guys...remember i'm doing 5k oci..
volk06-i see your from iowa as well,has this been one hot summer or what?
Hot is an understatement! Not looking for to this cooling bill, not this early in the summer!
all good info here guys...remember i'm doing 5k oci..
volk06-i see your from iowa as well,has this been one hot summer or what?
Hot is an understatement! Not looking for to this cooling bill, not this early in the summer!
Originally Posted By: Stephen_G
It all depends on what you want, for example QSUD oil plus filter for my car comes to about 25 with tax, doing mobil 1 is over 30 bucks plus tax. Conventional (Mobil super 5000) is a 17 buck change with tax for oil+Filter.
In my engine i see no benefits for the synthetic other than to help clean it out.
I don't even see that benefit. Conventional at 5k has my engines spotless through the oil fill hole. I have used synth oils, currently Amsoil and cannot justify them in my apps. So i'm going back to what has worked well for ME so far.
It all depends on what you want, for example QSUD oil plus filter for my car comes to about 25 with tax, doing mobil 1 is over 30 bucks plus tax. Conventional (Mobil super 5000) is a 17 buck change with tax for oil+Filter.
In my engine i see no benefits for the synthetic other than to help clean it out.
I don't even see that benefit. Conventional at 5k has my engines spotless through the oil fill hole. I have used synth oils, currently Amsoil and cannot justify them in my apps. So i'm going back to what has worked well for ME so far.
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I have my engines SPOTLESSLY clean inside on conventional. I've had the valve cover and the pan off... nothing by clean oil coating the metal.. no black junk, no varnish. No Kidding.
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
I have my engines SPOTLESSLY clean inside on conventional. I've had the valve cover and the pan off... nothing by clean oil coating the metal.. no black junk, no varnish. No Kidding.
Yeah it is amazing when you change your oil in a manner that resembles your owners manual. Your experiences with conventional's are not unusual.
I have my engines SPOTLESSLY clean inside on conventional. I've had the valve cover and the pan off... nothing by clean oil coating the metal.. no black junk, no varnish. No Kidding.
Yeah it is amazing when you change your oil in a manner that resembles your owners manual. Your experiences with conventional's are not unusual.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Yeah it is amazing when you change your oil in a manner that resembles your owners manual. Your experiences with conventional's are not unusual.
No kidding! I swear, some of the folks on this site, although very informed, still think they know how to take care of their car 10 times better than the engineers that designed said car.
I learned car care from my old man.... and have continued to update my knowledge with research and discussion. Although some of the things have changed a bit since then, most of the concepts are the same. Don't buy junk filters, buy good oil, change it when the book says to..... That kind of know-how has been in place since my dad worked as a mechanic in the 50's.
Yeah it is amazing when you change your oil in a manner that resembles your owners manual. Your experiences with conventional's are not unusual.
No kidding! I swear, some of the folks on this site, although very informed, still think they know how to take care of their car 10 times better than the engineers that designed said car.
I learned car care from my old man.... and have continued to update my knowledge with research and discussion. Although some of the things have changed a bit since then, most of the concepts are the same. Don't buy junk filters, buy good oil, change it when the book says to..... That kind of know-how has been in place since my dad worked as a mechanic in the 50's.
There are instances were I believe the manual and the engineers are off kilter but you have to balance what the manual states and what test data is available. But I do have a issue when the manual states change the oil at 7.5K with a such and such oil that meets this certification and members will chime in and say they do not "feel" this is correct.
Agreed... when the manual has adequate detail, there's not much I will do to question it.
I bought my wife a Ford Escape... I read the maintenence history, and it had been on dealership 7500mi OCI's... I was used to 5K.. so I read the manual... it's 7.5K on the Motocraft Syn... Ok, I bought the truck... It was bought and serviced at that dealership... they are one of the few places I will let touch my cars.
I ran a few OCI's myself looking for the signs on sludge or contamination.. There are ZERO signs of any sludge or contamination in that engine. So even though I'm doing the service now, I have added trust in the owners manual.
I can't find a THING wrong with that truck... and it was 80K miles old when I bought it... VERY well taken care of.
I bought my wife a Ford Escape... I read the maintenence history, and it had been on dealership 7500mi OCI's... I was used to 5K.. so I read the manual... it's 7.5K on the Motocraft Syn... Ok, I bought the truck... It was bought and serviced at that dealership... they are one of the few places I will let touch my cars.
I ran a few OCI's myself looking for the signs on sludge or contamination.. There are ZERO signs of any sludge or contamination in that engine. So even though I'm doing the service now, I have added trust in the owners manual.
I can't find a THING wrong with that truck... and it was 80K miles old when I bought it... VERY well taken care of.
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