OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
I've usually avoided the thicker Euro-spec oils because of concerns about cold-weather start-up wear being a little excessive. And fuel economy is nice. And just assumed I don't really need a high HTHS oil anyway without track racing.
READ THIS
That post of yours mentions "oil pressure", which doesn't address the problems a thicker oil has in properly lubricating the rings and valve stems (hard to reach thick) when cold. Viscosity is generally thought to be too high when cold, and using a 0w-20 or maybe 0w-30 helps. .... All that said, you could assume a very-high-spec Euro oil 0w-40 would work in Michigan winters. I'm just saying your engine will want lower viscosity when warming up. ... I do like the toughness of the better euro-spec oils though!
I've run both PU 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 in our Canadian winters without issue. The older M1 0w-40 formula had a spectacular MRV for the grade.
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
I've usually avoided the thicker Euro-spec oils because of concerns about cold-weather start-up wear being a little excessive. And fuel economy is nice. And just assumed I don't really need a high HTHS oil anyway without track racing.
READ THIS
That post of yours mentions "oil pressure", which doesn't address the problems a thicker oil has in properly lubricating the rings and valve stems (hard to reach thick) when cold. Viscosity is generally thought to be too high when cold, and using a 0w-20 or maybe 0w-30 helps. .... All that said, you could assume a very-high-spec Euro oil 0w-40 would work in Michigan winters. I'm just saying your engine will want lower viscosity when warming up. ... I do like the toughness of the better euro-spec oils though!
I've run both PU 5w-40 and M1 0w-40 in our Canadian winters without issue. The older M1 0w-40 formula had a spectacular MRV for the grade.