Nissan VQ35HR & ester oil. I have some questions for your expertise

No doubt, but there are also other threads here that include UOAs that show how well that oil does in various engines with different demands and duty cycles. (The link I posted is also just 1 piece of the puzzle.) There are also many threads of first-hand in shop discussions with engineers and mechanics of private race teams (who rebuild engines often and measure wear, note overall condition) and all point to the same conclusion: this oil works in racing application as well as it does in grocery getter application. Most of the threads I'm referring to are few years old, so I'm not going digging for them now. But all is available to anyone with a simple search bar up top. I'm still sticking to my earlier statement: don't hunt a single ingredient or ability to do 1 certain task better than the rest. Look at the oil's overall performance. Thousands of UOAs posted on this forum alone. Plus many more available on other forums too. Try the oil, do a UOA, see how your engine responds. Simple as that.
As far as your oil getting too cool - try Castrol Edge 0W40. Temp should get up a bit in normal driving, and on track the higher oil temps will be fine as Castrol Edge 0W40 won't shear from those temps like M1 0W40 may.

P.S. Interestingly enough, despite the better shear stability Castrol Edge 0W40 still has a lower flash point than Mobil1 FS 0W40. 209C/408F VS. 226C/439F respectively. But again, it's just another piece to the puzzle.
How do I figure out the shear stability of an oil?
 
If I understand it correctly, shear stability is the resistance to changes in viscosity. A UOA will show the viscosity of the oil after your usage, and plenty of VOAs are available to compare the before and after.
I see. So there is nothing in the specifications from which I can infer the shear stability of the oil. Just by researching what others have experienced.
 
I see. So there is nothing in the specifications from which I can infer the shear stability of the oil. Just by researching what others have experienced.
No, on the contrary, I have a table of the high-temperature, full-shear (HTFS) viscosity. If oil shear or engine wear due to insufficient oil viscosity is a concern, choose an oil with a high HTFS (not simply with a high HTHS) viscosity.

Table of the high-temperature, full-shear (HTFS) viscosity and VII content of selected oils
 
No, on the contrary, I have a table of the high-temperature, full-shear (HTFS) viscosity. If oil shear or engine wear due to insufficient oil viscosity is a concern, choose an oil with a high HTFS (not simply with a high HTHS) viscosity.

Table of the high-temperature, full-shear (HTFS) viscosity and VII content of selected oils
That was incredibly helpful. I see the mobil ESP 0w-40 is on there. Maybe I'll just switch from the euro to the esp. Will check out the specs on that but super helpful file. I downloaded that. Thanks again.
 
That was incredibly helpful. I see the mobil ESP 0w-40 is on there. Maybe I'll just switch from the euro to the esp. Will check out the specs on that but super helpful file. I downloaded that. Thanks again.
Yes, VW 504.00 oils tend to be very stout in terms of the HTFS viscosity (base-oil + additive-pack viscosity at 150 °C, with the viscosity-index improver (VII) fully temporarily sheared).

Speaking of stout oils, here are the top stout oils in terms of the HTFS viscosity, which will typically result in least engine wear under high-load or high-speed conditions, both conditions resulting in high temporary or permanent oil shear. Full temporary shear always happens in boundary lubrication (timing chain, valvetrain, and top piston rings/cylinder liners when the pistons are at the top or bottom of their range). Full temporary shear may also happen in high load and/or high RPM conditions.

Code:
Oil HTFS (cP)

Valvoline Daily Protection SAE 50 SP 6.75
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4.95
High-Perf. Lub. HPL HDEO 20W-50 4.74
High-Perf. Lub. HPL HDEO SAE 50 4.62
High-Perf. Lub. HPL PCMO SAE 40 4.54
High-Perf. Lub. HPL PCMO 20W-50 4.51
Valvoline Daily Protection SAE 30 SP 4.10
Chevron Delo 600 ADF 15W-40 CK-4 3.82
High-Perf. Lub. HPL PCMO 15W-40 3.81
Valvoline Daily Protection SAE 40 SP 3.78
High-Perf. Lub. HPL HDEO 20W-40 3.76
 
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Yes, VW 504.00 oils tend to be very stout in terms of the HTFS viscosity (base-oil + additive-pack viscosity at 150 °C, with the viscosity-index improver (VII) fully temporarily sheared).

Speaking of stout oils, here are the top stout oils in terms of the HTFS viscosity, which will typically result in least engine wear under high-load or high-speed conditions, both conditions resulting in high temporary or permanent oil shear. Full temporary shear always happens in boundary lubrication (timing chain, valvetrain, and top piston rings/cylinder liners when the pistons are at the top or bottom of their range). Full temporary shear may also happen in high load and/or high RPM conditions.

Code:
Oil HTFS (cP)

Valvoline Daily Protection SAE 50 SP 6.75
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4.95
High-Perf. Lub. HPL HDEO 20W-50 4.74
High-Perf. Lub. HPL HDEO SAE 50 4.62
High-Perf. Lub. HPL PCMO SAE 40 4.54
High-Perf. Lub. HPL PCMO 20W-50 4.51
Valvoline Daily Protection SAE 30 SP 4.10
Chevron Delo 600 ADF 15W-40 CK-4 3.82
High-Perf. Lub. HPL PCMO 15W-40 3.81
Valvoline Daily Protection SAE 40 SP 3.78
High-Perf. Lub. HPL HDEO 20W-40 3.76
Most of those are going to be too heavy for my application as it is not quite yet a dedicated race car. I do drive it out on date nights and on road trips. As well as to work when I just cannot handle driving my van when I have such an awesome machine in the garage.

Is there a stouter alternative to the Mobil 1 0W-40 with specifications around a 12-13 viscosity at 100C and around a 65-75 at 40C that I should be using? These engines are super hard on oil and a typical track day is me running the car for 30 minutes, these latter 20-25 minutes of which are at 230-260F oil temps. I do this 5-8 times before heading home for the day but those are the extreme end of the conditions the engine sees. Normal driving the oil temps vary between 140-205 depending on temperature and driving conditions. If I unblock the oil cooler there is not a single thing I can do on the street to get the temps above 185F. Hence me the designing the entire system around the block off plate. It has a thermostatic plate set at 180F but as I am sure you know that progressively open so its open somewhat all the way down to about 120F oil temps. Its fully open at 180F.

Should I be shooting for an even higher 100C viscosity? Some guys with these engines run a ridiculously huge oil cooler with 5w-30 as they claim the higher weight oils create too much friction and end up heating the oil even more. These same guys cant get above 140F driving on the street which I think is not too smart.
 
Most of those are going to be too heavy for my application as it is not quite yet a dedicated race car. I do drive it out on date nights and on road trips. As well as to work when I just cannot handle driving my van when I have such an awesome machine in the garage.

Is there a stouter alternative to the Mobil 1 0W-40 with specifications around a 12-13 viscosity at 100C and around a 65-75 at 40C that I should be using? These engines are super hard on oil and a typical track day is me running the car for 30 minutes, these latter 20-25 minutes of which are at 230-260F oil temps. I do this 5-8 times before heading home for the day but those are the extreme end of the conditions the engine sees. Normal driving the oil temps vary between 140-205 depending on temperature and driving conditions. If I unblock the oil cooler there is not a single thing I can do on the street to get the temps above 185F. Hence me the designing the entire system around the block off plate. It has a thermostatic plate set at 180F but as I am sure you know that progressively open so its open somewhat all the way down to about 120F oil temps. Its fully open at 180F.

Should I be shooting for an even higher 100C viscosity? Some guys with these engines run a ridiculously huge oil cooler with 5w-30 as they claim the higher weight oils create too much friction and end up heating the oil even more. These same guys cant get above 140F driving on the street which I think is not too smart.
Euro 5W-30 oils are actually stouter than Euro 0W-40 oils. KV100 does not mean anything at all, and HTFS is more important than HTHS, as the former applies to full shear, while the latter only applies to high shear.

A Euro 0W-40 could have a slightly higher HTHS than a Euro 5W-30 (like 3.6 cP vs 3.5 cP) but the HTFS will be higher for a Euro 5W-30.

In particular, VW 504.00 5W-30 oils are excellent very stout oils. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 has an HTFS of 2.5 cP, and Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 has an HTFS of a whopping 3.0 cP, as high as a SAE 30 monograde.

So, if you are considering a Euro 0W-40, for a stouter oil, go with a Euro 5W-30 instead if you can afford the more expensive latter.
 
Euro 5W-30 oils are actually stouter than Euro 0W-40 oils. KV100 does not mean anything at all, and HTFS is more important than HTHS, as the former applies to full shear, while the latter only applies to high shear.

A Euro 0W-40 could have a slightly higher HTHS than a Euro 5W-30 (like 3.6 cP vs 3.5 cP) but the HTFS will be higher for a Euro 5W-30.

In particular, VW 504.00 5W-30 oils are excellent very stout oils. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 has an HTFS of 2.5 cP, and Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 has an HTFS of a whopping 3.0 cP, as high as a SAE 30 monograde.

So, if you are considering a Euro 0W-40, for a stouter oil, go with a Euro 5W-30 instead if you can afford the more expensive latter.
This is exactly why I was looking at the thicker end of the 5w-30 oils. I have no issue shelling out for a good oil. Are the amsoil SS that much more stout than all the other premium oils? They seem to make a lot of seemingly outlandish claims in the marketing.

These engines are "supposed" to be run with ester oils. Supposed to cling to specific parts of the engine designed for it. Would the Motul be a good fit then as it has a great HTFS as well as having esters? I know castrol makes a lot of claims of their oil "clinging to engine parts" like a "magnet". Is there any validity to this claim as that seems like something only real eater oils do.
 
My Infiniti M35 (now sold, owned since new) had the same engine family, the thing used a little oil and varnished up a little on spec oil. Mobil 1 0w40 took care of the varnish and consumption. Many excellent UOA's on these engine with this oil.
 
This is exactly why I was looking at the thicker end of the 5w-30 oils. I have no issue shelling out for a good oil. Are the amsoil SS that much more stout than all the other premium oils? They seem to make a lot of seemingly outlandish claims in the marketing.

These engines are "supposed" to be run with ester oils. Supposed to cling to specific parts of the engine designed for it. Would the Motul be a good fit then as it has a great HTFS as well as having esters? I know castrol makes a lot of claims of their oil "clinging to engine parts" like a "magnet". Is there any validity to this claim as that seems like something only real eater oils do.
Actually, oils high in ester (POE) content tend to increase engine wear because when the ester clings onto the engine parts, it prevents the AW/EP/FM additives from clinging onto them. However, small amounts of POE is OK. For example, Mobil 1 FS and ESP oils have a small amount of POE in them. It helps increase the thermal stability of the oil, but primarily, it increases the engine cleaning through higher solvency of POE. That said, you don't need to have POE in your oil. Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 is an excellence choice. In @Trav's case, cleaning power of the POE helped with his varnish and oil consumption issues by removing the deposit build-up. M1 ESP and FS oils, as well as the Motul Ester Core oils, have about 5–7% POE. Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 does not have POE.
 
Actually, oils high in ester (POE) content tend to increase engine wear because when the ester clings onto the engine parts, it prevents the AW/EP/FM additives from clinging onto them. However, small amounts of POE is OK. For example, Mobil 1 FS and ESP oils have a small amount of POE in them. It helps increase the thermal stability of the oil, but primarily, it increases the engine cleaning through higher solvency of POE. That said, you don't need to have POE in your oil. Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 is an excellence choice. In @Trav's case, cleaning power of the POE helped with his varnish and oil consumption issues by removing the deposit build-up. M1 ESP and FS oils, as well as the Motul Ester Core oils, have about 5–7% POE. Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 does not have POE.
What do you think of this Castrol Edge Euro 0W-30 A3/B4. Its a very heavy 30 weight. Fractions of viscosity off the mobil 1 0w-40 euro fs. It has a pretty low NOACK and a very nice HTHS. I feel like this might be great

I did some research into the Motul 8100 on the 350Z forums I am a part of. It seems it does not fare well in these engines. The Blackstone reports do not come back well. Showing three times the wear of amsoil and twice the wear of mobil 1. I think for the price and knowing that bit of info I am going to shy away from Motul. I do have motul in my OS Giken LSD. It's a special 80w-250 made specifically for racing clutch diff. Doesn't make a peep on the street. Amazing stuff. $50 a quart, woof.
 
Actually, oils high in ester (POE) content tend to increase engine wear because when the ester clings onto the engine parts, it prevents the AW/EP/FM additives from clinging onto them. However, small amounts of POE is OK. For example, Mobil 1 FS and ESP oils have a small amount of POE in them. It helps increase the thermal stability of the oil, but primarily, it increases the engine cleaning through higher solvency of POE. That said, you don't need to have POE in your oil. Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 is an excellence choice. In @Trav's case, cleaning power of the POE helped with his varnish and oil consumption issues by removing the deposit build-up. M1 ESP and FS oils, as well as the Motul Ester Core oils, have about 5–7% POE. Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 does not have POE.
0w-30 specs
 

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My Infiniti M35 (now sold, owned since new) had the same engine family, the thing used a little oil and varnished up a little on spec oil. Mobil 1 0w40 took care of the varnish and consumption. Many excellent UOA's on these engine with this oil.
Would M1 0W-40 be way too thick for a K24 Accord?
 
What do you think of this Castrol Edge Euro 0W-30 A3/B4. Its a very heavy 30 weight. Fractions of viscosity off the mobil 1 0w-40 euro fs. It has a pretty low NOACK and a very nice HTHS. I feel like this might be great

I did some research into the Motul 8100 on the 350Z forums I am a part of. It seems it does not fare well in these engines. The Blackstone reports do not come back well. Showing three times the wear of amsoil and twice the wear of mobil 1. I think for the price and knowing that bit of info I am going to shy away from Motul. I do have motul in my OS Giken LSD. It's a special 80w-250 made specifically for racing clutch diff. Doesn't make a peep on the street. Amazing stuff. $50 a quart, woof.
Castrol oils typically don't have ester (POE). So, you won't have the engine-cleaning benefits of POE-containing oils such as M1 FS and M1 ESP.

I don't know if that was the same Motul 8100.

Amsoil is full-SAPS; so, perhaps go with M1 FS 0W-40, which is also full-SAPS (hence the FS acronym) or Amsoil. M1 FS 0W-40 is certainly a lot cheaper. They both have POE, and Amsoil has a lot more.

If an oil shows oxidation at or below 10% in a VOA, it has no POE in the base oil or perhaps only a fraction of a percent. 50% oxidation is about 7–10% POE, so, you can scale it accordingly. Oil-Club Russia has VOAs showing oxidation for many oils.

 
M1 0W-40 is hardly thick. Most 10W-30 oils have a thicker base oil, and stout 5W-30 oils have a base oil about as thick.
In the back of my mind I've always wanted to try it because of all the hype it gets. I just don't want too thick of an oil to bog down my Honda 4 banger:D
 
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