Nissan Rogue 2015 S Recommended Oil/Filter?

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Done some research on BITOG and looking to see if anyone had additional info to sway my decision in future oil changes... Recommended filter and oil? See below for my current issue with M1 and extended oil life...

Was going to the dealership and having stock changes approximately every 5k miles till around 65k. Recently took over and using M1 advanced filters and M1 full synthetic oil... But on my recent oil change at 80k I found a thin shaving of rubber or seal? On the inlet portion of the M1 filter. I still religiously change them at 5k intervals as that's what I'm used to.

I found someone else had a similar problem from BITOG claiming that the piece would not get into the engine and it was a known defect in some of their filters... Not too comforting. I'm planning on swapping to the fram ultra XG6607, but use the XG7317 (larger filter media, same price, same pressure and all other parameters the same except size as I can tell).

For oil - is there anything that would work better with the fram filter than the current one I am using? 0W-20 Mobil Full Synthetic Extended (15K change interval recommended). Rogue specific experience a plus but oil is oil... Better is better.

Driving Habits: I drive 85-90% highway miles on this vehicle, easy going driver for the most part. Live in Mid-Michigan so climate can suck in the winter - snow, salt compound and whatever they use to melt it. Still relatively hot in the summer up to 100F. Running 0W-20 as per recommendation from the manual. Service schedule in the manual is every 5K miles.

Thanks in advance.
 
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See no reason to switch oil since M1 seems to be serving you well. Not a fan of Fram although their Ultra does seem to be pretty good. Pretty hard to beat WIX filter. Little fuzzy on your plans for OCI's Are you planning to start extending to 15K?
 
Wix is just an average filter as far as filtering particulate counts, build quality is above average. Is how remember it in that filter test
 
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Are the 5k oci's for severe service ? If not it seems a little conservative especially seeing that you're doing easy highway miles. Even the filter choice seems like overkill. I believe you can easily stretch it out to 7500 mi. Don't dump good oil and a quality filter at 5k, seems like a waste. Also if you're using 0w20 EP and you insist on 5k changes you could just use regular Mobil 1 0w20 and a Tough Guard or orange can.
 
I'd like to know how you found the PSI pressure for the filters? The Wix is 8 psi I believe. The Fram/s ?. I tried to find this info on the OEM Nissan filter but I could not find anywhere. It would be good to know this. We bought a Nissan Rogue Sport w/ 2L about a yr. ago and I've done one oil/filter change so far using Eneos 0w-20 and Wix filter. Being a good BITOGer, I've prepared a few filters (Wix/Mobil1/Carquest) and oil for the next 5-7 yrs at least! Be sure to change out your CVT fluid as well if you haven't done so already.
 
you could pick up off ebay OE filters with the plug gasket and if you have no consumption between oil changes stick with the Mobil 1 AFE 0w20
 
Originally Posted by sparky123
I'd like to know how you found the PSI pressure for the filters? The Wix is 8 psi I believe. The Fram/s ?. I tried to find this info on the OEM Nissan filter but I could not find anywhere. It would be good to know this. We bought a Nissan Rogue Sport w/ 2L about a yr. ago and I've done one oil/filter change so far using Eneos 0w-20 and Wix filter. Being a good BITOGer, I've prepared a few filters (Wix/Mobil1/Carquest) and oil for the next 5-7 yrs at least! Be sure to change out your CVT fluid as well if you haven't done so already.


See if Rock Auto sells that filter and often their info button will give you that psi spec.
 
Recommend the oversized Fram Ultra and M1 EP like your'e already doing, but keep it all in for 10,000 miles. Highway driving is easy on the oil, and you've got a 4.8 quart capacity with an oversized Ultra, so no problem there. And, Nissan's 5k recommendation is meant for a synthetic blend. M1 EP is a full syn with a big slug of PAO mixed with GroupIII.

For a special oil, you could use Amsoil Signature Series 0w20, or any Ravenol 0w20, or M1 AP, or Zepro Eco Medalist, or Schaeffer. All those are probably better, as in more moly or in the case of the Ravenol, all PAO+ester. They do cost more.
 
For 5k, even dino will do. So for you, just get the cheapest oil on sale. Kmart often has their Smitty's synthetic blend for $7-8 for the 5qt jug, so use that
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For the filter, use the Wix 57356 (or the XP version), Napa Gold or Platinum 7356, or a Fram 7317.
 
Thanks old_film_movies. So the Fram is 13psi and the Wix is 8. Now the question....what is the OEM Nissan filter's PSI? Does it make that much of a difference 13 vs. 8? Does anyone know who makes the Nissan filter? (15208-65FOE) Maybe this way some info could be found. Thanks....
 
Originally Posted by sparky123
Thanks old_film_movies. So the Fram is 13psi and the Wix is 8. Now the question....what is the OEM Nissan filter's PSI? Does it make that much of a difference 13 vs. 8? Does anyone know who makes the Nissan filter? (15208-65FOE) Maybe this way some info could be found. Thanks....
Not sure who makes the Nissan oil filter for them or it's psi bypass.
I prefer higher psi bypass, especially in cold weather, to reduce the number of bypass events which wash oil over the dirty side of the filter and straight into the engine. GM issued a TSB warning about using too low a bypass pressure on an oil filter for their engines made in the last 6 years which apparently have tighter clearances and higher start-up oil pressure due to a revised control strategy. This has caused some of us to think about bypass pressure more, and I favor higher ones when available for my size.
 
The QR25 series recommended 5w-30 into 2015, and indeed in 2015 the Rogue Select recommended that weight. Starting in 2015 the Rogue recommended 0w-20 with the exact same engine and transmission.

Living in Wyoming, a 0w-30 may not be a bad call, but there is no mechanical advantage to the move from 30 down to 20. Nissan made a change to thinner oil to squeeze an incremental fraction of a MPG without making any expensive changes to the drivetrain. CAFE chasing in other words.

As the owner of two NIssans, one with the same engine you have, I will not move from 30 down to 20. There is no good reason to do so. I do 5k changes with Magnatec 10w-30 or 5w-30. Of the many oils I've used in my 2 Nissans, that is the one I have had the best results with, taking cost, availability, my OCI schedule, and engine protection benefits into consideration. I use jobber filters and they work fine.
 
Thanks for all the comments and information everyone. I have been doing 6k ish OCI on the M1 filter and the EP full synthetic. I'm thinking I might change it over to 10K plus if I use the Fram Ultra 7317 and stick with M1 EP oil for better fuel efficiency they have for Nissan models. I still trust M1 oils fairly well but that filter scare just threw me, also I can get the Fram Ultra for $6 on a subscription at Amazon, and I just got a $12 rebate on a 5QT of the M1 full synthetic green bottles at our local store so the oil change is gonna be roughly $23, including the copper crush washers I bought that Nissan recommends per oil change.

My most recent OCI at 81k miles with M1 full synthetic and M1 filter I'll leave on till about 90k, any way to determine if it's still ok with just the dipstick check? It's ingrained in my brain to do 5k/6k oci's so any way to alleviate my concern would be great. Also, I live in Michigan so the weather gets kind of wintry over here. I don't know why it said Wyoming.
 
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