Nickel vs Copper anti-seize

[JHZR2]

The best anti-seize I ever used has copper and aluminium particles in it.

I don’t know what best is. By what metric?

We know that copper and aluminum will react when the third part of the galvanic equation, an electrolyte, is present.

They make anti seizes with at least the following:
- zinc dust
- aluminum
- copper
- nickel
- Molybdenum
- graphite
- calcium

And of course mixtures of each. Some are not allowable for certain applications. For example, I was looking at a graphite one the other day that was very specific that it could induce corrosive damage in some metal combinations.

I think for some applications like spark plugs, copper antiseize between a steel plug and aluminum head, though worse from a galvanic perspective, is ok because it is always going to be hot, and rarely wet. So despite the dissimilar metals, the conductivity benefit of copper outweighs other issues since the combo is always dry.

For, say, fasteners under the car, the situation will be vastly different. Copper antiseize on a steel fastener in an aluminum threaded part would appear to be a big issue. And that’s why they make zinc, aluminum (only) and marine type antiseize.

The interface between an aluminum wheel and steel hub would be one that I don’t think is the right application for copper, and better for either cheap standard grease or an aluminum or zinc antiseize. Nickel is hazardous so not a great choice. Copper-aluminum blends might react with themselves but then what afterwards??

Again why I’d love to see a recommended use chart based upon the galvanic series, metal combos, etc. I think If you need to use Nickel based, you know… as it’s for more specific and expensive reasons…

 

[Jetronic]

I used the said anti-seize on my steel caliper bolts, which go through an aluminium caliper into an aluminium upright. I did this 7 years ago and last year I removed them to replace the brake discs. There was no sign of any corrosion on any of the parts. I could remove one of them again tomorrow if you want to see them. The grease was still a grease aswell, didn't dry out and that's what makes it the best I ever used, it's consistently not dried up no matter where I used it. As a sidenote, it doesn't appear to swell EDPM either.

For short periods regular grease can work but often it's cleaned off the thread when you turn the bolts in and it sure will dry out in high heat applications. Bu

The reason I removed thoise bolts (and others) was exactly to prevent galvanic corrosion, it's a bit of an issue hereabouts, like it will be in New Jersey.

 

[ordinarybloke]

Thread revival. Nickel A/S is highly toxic. Careful. Used copper A/S with steel and alloy. Paid the price. Won't do that again.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Marine-grade anti-seize changed the game for me in the Great Lakes area. In the winter environment at road-level I found that every anti-seize I had seemed to react with itself when in an aluminum alloy/iron rotor/steel hub or aluminum alloy/aluminum rotor hat/steel hub or steel wheel/iron rotor/steel hub scenario. The exact mess was different depending on which anti-seize. Only spray-on anti-seize (some ancient aerosol can my dad had) didn't seem to do this.

The Loctite marine grade anti-seize I have is likely primarily graphite. Goes on thick but spreadable, stays put, and there's no reaction visible when spring comes.

On my vehicle (BMW F10) the tie rods seem to seize up between every alignment and end up needing to be destroyed to be removed. The last time this was necessary I provided the shop my jar of marine anti-seize and left instructions to please use my provided anti-seize (despite how ridiculous the request sounds to a professional shop). I'm now off of the tie-rod subscription plan (so far, touch wood). I DIY almost everything, but these seized tie-rods were not on that list.