I’m installing new rotors soon and I see a thin application of copper anti-seize is often recommended on the hub face prior to installing the new rotor. I don’t have copper right now and am curious if there is any reason aluminum anti-seize would be a bad idea?
Anti-seize and rotor install
- Thread starter Soobs
- Start date
Funny, just did this several times over the past few days. You will be fine, anything that prevents or slows the corrosion that can cause the wheel to bind will work. The key is using a small amount and wiping any excess so that it doesn't get flung around and make a mess or get on the rotor or caliper.
Copper antiseize is better at staying. There always seems to be some still there whenever I go back and work on something. I just use it around the center ring on rotors.
At one time I put some heat transfer paste (zinc oxide) between the rotor and hub. But it flailed out and made a mess.
At one time I put some heat transfer paste (zinc oxide) between the rotor and hub. But it flailed out and made a mess.
Even when I buy a new car, I take off the rotors within the first year, coat everything with aluminum antiseize and reassemble them. It definitely pays off. I just did a rotor change after 10 years/141K miles on my Subaru and the rotors came off with a light tap of my wrench handle.
Not suggesting to glob it on heavy but on the hub face, it's pretty well contained inside the rotor hat so I'm not sure where it will end up flung.
Also, in my experience, rotors get stuck on the O.D. of the hub, not the face, so don't forget to apply it there.
Are you having issues getting the old rotors off? or do the wheels fuse themselves to the hub? I'm not to bothered about the discs, only found 1 application where they were hard to remove and greasing the hub face wouldn't help there.
But it wouldn't hurt either way.
Isn't anti-seize for fasteners? Won't the stuff run when hot under hard braking? I've always used ceramic silicone brake lube. Stuff is good to 3,000 degrees, not that it would ever get that hot.
Another reason to run coated/plated rotors instead of bare iron.
I’ve been using the aluminum anti-seize for years. I apply it on the flange/hub edge. That does the trick just fine. Some might want to coat the entire flange face in a high rust area.
Just posted this pic in the what are you working on thread, but applies here. This is before I rubbed the excess copper anti seize off.
As someone noted, the sticking is most likely to occur on the hub extension and probably from the swelling due to corrosion then actual binding. In this case, an aluminum rotor hub, I rub a very light film of oil on the rotor face and use anti seize on the bare steel hub.
As someone noted, the sticking is most likely to occur on the hub extension and probably from the swelling due to corrosion then actual binding. In this case, an aluminum rotor hub, I rub a very light film of oil on the rotor face and use anti seize on the bare steel hub.
Depends how it's made. I use a bentonite clay grease, never runs. good upto 2000F.
Nah, they come right off. Just figured I’d add a thin coat anti-seize anyway to keep corrosion and rust down. I’m not in the rust belt though so the rotors seizing on hasn’t been a common issue. I’ve only had a drum seize once, but I had previously lived in the NE with it. Lots of salt in the winter. My job sometimes has me move around so it’s possible I unexpectedly end up somewhere salty again.
Yep, I bought Advics rotors on rockauto. They seem to be made really well and have plated hates.
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I always like to put a little on the hub face and on the rotor face as well. I’ve done my fair share of air hammering and sledgehammering rotors off cause they were seized same with wheels too. Doesn’t matter which type. If it already has some on it I just use that same type of it doesn’t then I usually use the silver stuff cause it’s cheaper and more available and I have more of it. I keep both on hand though.
Using just a faint film around the center ring of the hub.
That's what Porsche recommends and what I use for almost 20 years:
Berner Antiseize-Paste (white-silver, up to 1400°C/2550°F)
Berner Antiseize-Paste (white-silver, up to 1400°C/2550°F)
Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant
A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant ...
www.permatex.com
I always use 5 or so pea-sized drops on the wheel hub when installing a new rotor. I also give the inside if the wheel mating surface a quick smear. Rotor set screws get absolutely slathered in the stuff. I've never had it sling or otherwise make a mess.
SMA is also in the salt belt with massive corrosion on their cars. Erik O. makes the best diagnostic videos on youtube.