I am also in the heavy salt belt, secondary lake effect snow belt south of cleveland ohio.
A couple flakes falling today and it was like driving on gravel again.. about 10 pieces kicked up and hit me even though I wasnt following close.
Anti-seize and rotor install
- Thread starter Soobs
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A couple flakes falling today and it was like driving on gravel again.. about 10 pieces kicked up and hit me even though I wasnt following close.
Copper and aluminum have the same stick to them. Just different metallic flakes for heat rejection. Copper version is only slightly better at heat. No real huge difference.
Zinc oxide will dry up and turn useless. Waste of money and time as you found.
Coated rotors retain the coating for about 5 initial stops. It's only there to stop corrosion before being sold.
Zero braking performance characteristics from the coating.
The coating prolongs the life of the rotor by slowing corrosion to the hat, vanes, and mating surfaces.
And it lasts longer than 5 stops.
I have been using aluminum antiseize on hubs for years. Works well.
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The oil is just a carrier for the "dust." That said you want to use a minimal amount.
I use Muscle Grease. I think South Main Auto recommend it.
I cleaned it off the studs
I stand by this method, if you want them to come off easily for other service
Check me, you are correct. Forgot about those areas. Good catch sir. Was thinking about the braking surface only LOL.
Mine sits full face, face is flush. But Hyundai had it like this.
If you're really cheap you can make them yourself. (And make sure you're home alone)
I thought I was clever using the wife's dishwasher as an awesome greasy parts washer LOL. Actually her washer does a fabulous job on hot pot scrubber mode LOL. Intake manifolds, mower transmissions and so on turn out spotless.
Aluminum Anti Seize is fine for most all automotive type of applications. Generally speaking, Anti Seize is rated by temperature use. Zinc being the lowest. Followed by Aluminum, then Copper, and Nickel with the highest temperature rating. Nickel works the best on exhaust manifold studs, etc.
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What's higher rated than 1400°C/2550°F? Why/where would
you even need something higher rated than 1400°C/2550°F?
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What's higher rated than 1400°C/2550°F? Why/where would
you even need something higher rated than 1400°C/2550°F?
.
This is my goto anti=seize.
Doesn't dry out, ever. up to 1100C, good enough for what I need. I might get some nickel based stuff for use on stainless steel but I haven't found the stainless to become brittle when this was used so far. I use it sparingly, a tub like that lasted me 5 years in professional use and a lifetime in private use.
Doesn't dry out, ever. up to 1100C, good enough for what I need. I might get some nickel based stuff for use on stainless steel but I haven't found the stainless to become brittle when this was used so far. I use it sparingly, a tub like that lasted me 5 years in professional use and a lifetime in private use.
These are my "go to" anti seize products. I'll be the first to admit, I'm really anal about using them, because I absolutely HATE stuck bolts and fasteners.
It comes from being involved in a trade for over 45 years, where it became all to common to either have to drill, mill, or EDM broken one's out. Most all would have been easily prevented by using one of the products shown below.
It comes from being involved in a trade for over 45 years, where it became all to common to either have to drill, mill, or EDM broken one's out. Most all would have been easily prevented by using one of the products shown below.
Upon reentry into the atmosphere 3,000F are possible.
Yeah, billt460 probably owns a space ship.
For sure on that. The guy is amazing.
If you watch enough of his videos, he doesn't always use never seize on hubs prior to new rotor installation. Quite often, he'll just "spritz" the hub face with Fluid Flim or what ever spray can of lube he has on hand. He's all over the place in regards to what brake part lubricant he uses also.