New to me Porsche Cayman oil recommendation please!

Couldnt we say the same about The Mobil 1 & Porsche deal? Mobil 1 milks the hell out of that with their marketing. 300V has a big shot of Moly 600-700 PPM and is ester based. Frankly, price does not really matter that much. I think it would be a wash over the ownership period of the car because I can get 300V using the FCP Euro lifetime warranty. Further, Motul even did a study showing a 1.5% gain in power over Mobil 1 0w-40 on a Porsche Cup engine. Free horsepowers!

Yes, you could. But Motul has not had a test on their 300V in order to qualify it for the A40 Spec, they need to put their money where their mouth is. Like how Ferrari says Nurburgring Lap Times do not mean anything to them. Yeah right. . . If Motul did a study you have to look for a bias and their testing methods (ATSM). If they are comparing 300V to M1 0W40 to me, it's not fair, needs to be the same spec, application and weight in the same controlled environment with the same parameters for certain variables (temps etc).
300V also has zero manufacturer approvals.
This right here. It costs them next to nothing to get the approval and yet nadda. Their 8100 lines have the approval but not the 300V line.

I am not saying Motul makes bad products, far from it! They make good stuff, but come on now.
 
The 300V is a racing oil. It is not recommended for long drain intervals which approval would require.
I'm not sure why else they wouldn't seek approval for it, but it is certainly more stout than supertech, and doesn't seek approval for different reasons.
 
True, do you think that is because of the extended drain intervals targeted by OEMs and that Motul might know this and not even try to spend the money for the testing?
It's probably for a variety of reasons, one of them may be drain interval compatibility, but others may be limits for additive levels, ash, volatility....etc. Race oils are blended differently because the usage profile is expected to be different. For example, cold start wear and warm-up is part of the API and OEM sequences, how important do you think that is in a race oil? Keeping particulate in suspension over longer durations...etc. There are all kinds of different parameters that may receive different emphasis in formulation depending on anticipated use.
 
The 300V is a racing oil. It is not recommended for long drain intervals which approval would require.
I'm not sure why else they wouldn't seek approval for it, but it is certainly more stout than supertech, and doesn't seek approval for different reasons

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The only one of those that's actually approved appears to be 502/505 00
ha! Didn't think to look for that one. Is Mag1 100% the same as ST Euro?
 
Oh for the love of god, comparing apples and hammers.
300V is strictly racing oil. It cannot be approved for any manufacturer specification.
It has very high HTHS from low KV100 bcs. it is ester based oil (for real!). That affects fuel efficiency requirements that all these approvals have.
Bcs. it is ester based oil it oxidize a lot. It is already highly acidic fresh. Hence no way it would be approved for any specification as all those specifications require long drain intervals.
Additives are aimed at one thing: racing. Oil is designed to operate at very high temperatures constantly, not to drop kids to daycare and school, grocery shopping etc. where oil might not reach operating temperature.
That being said, there are some UOA here where person was running both M1 0W40 and 300V 0W40 and 300V proved more shear stable, much lower wear numbers and interestingly, both oxidized same.
 
Ended up going with the 300V, love the packaging here. Using the LIQUI MOLY Hybrid additive over winter to keep the fuel stabilized since I don't drive the car very much. Spark plugs, belt, and MAF cleaner. I have a Blackstone kit, gonna do a UOA of whatever is in the sump currently.
 

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Does that oil even have a proper add-pack to last...longer than a race?
Problem is that no one would know since it doesn't have any approvals. Porsche approvals exist for a reason.

This whole thread seems to have been a relentless quest to use that oil regardless of any valid advice that may have been given. At least the OP gives the true reason for his choice - he loved the packaging.

Now we'll wait for the $30 spectrographic analysis "to see if that was the right oil for wear." :rolleyes:
 
Does that oil even have a proper add-pack to last...longer than a race?
Of course it depends...we talking an endurance race?
If we're talking casual track days and daily driving, yes it can last longer than a race.

Problem is that no one would know since it doesn't have any approvals. Porsche approvals exist for a reason.
Give me a break. We have to go back to this point over and over?
Motul makes very good oils including ones with the appropriate approvals. They are very clear on the purpose of 300V and have provided recommendations how to use it.
 
Of course it depends...we talking an endurance race?
If we're talking casual track days and daily driving, yes it can last longer than a race.


Give me a break. We have to go back to this point over and over?
Motul makes very good oils including ones with the appropriate approvals. They are very clear on the purpose of 300V and have provided recommendations how to use it.
That point is critical. Absolutely critical

The oil is designed for a race. Motul makes a lot of claims about lubrication and protection, but, doesn’t say how long it will last in normal driving.

So, how long before it starts allowing acids build up and then sludge to form?

You won’t see any change in wear numbers when the rings get stuck with gunk, but you will have created a problem.

The Porsche A40 tests for ability to handle acids, to last in service without sludge and other problems. That is why approvals matter. Why selection of the appropriate oil for the service conditions matters.

Just because something says “Race” on it doesn’t make it better for a street application.
 
....which are?
.
Officially 300V is a race oil and should be replaced after every racing event.

The oil is designed for a race. Motul makes a lot of claims about lubrication and protection, but, doesn’t say how long it will last in normal driving.

So, how long before it starts allowing acids build up and then sludge to form?
Right, it isn't meant for daily driving. No reason to use it in that case. But the OP asked specifically about track days.

Motul used to be active on Rennlist. There are anecdotes of using 300V for a daily driver and somewhere they have made a recommendation for the max to run it.
But when it comes to racing oils the applications are very specific and they can't make a one-size fits all recommendation.
So, if that bothers you don't use it. If you need specific recommendation I'd recommend emailing them.

I'm not sure what else to say. The OP already decided to use it, which seems like a good choice in my opinion.
 
Seems to me that the OP’s requirements (2,500 miles/year, five or six track days) allow a lot of latitude in oil selection. The oil will get hot. It’s not going to see a lot of miles, or cold starts, or short trips.
 
Seems to me that the OP’s requirements (2,500 miles/year, five or six track days) allow a lot of latitude in oil selection. The oil will get hot. It’s not going to see a lot of miles, or cold starts, or short trips.
Sounds like a lot of sitting - exactly what you'd want a high TBN, low TAN oil for.
 
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