New to me Porsche Cayman oil recommendation please!

Driven DI40 and Motul 300V 5w-40 are all available on FCP Euro (using the lifetime warranty). Anyone have experience?
 
What's wrong with M1 0W-40? Cheap, easy to find, factory fill.
It’s not an oil really suited for the track. I read about a guy who followed the A40 spec and ran what Porsche recommended. Ended up spinning a bearing and had to replace the motor. I’d rather get something that has motorsports in mind so it is not compromised as much with emissions regulation and cost targets.
 
It’s not an oil really suited for the track. I read about a guy who followed the A40 spec and ran what Porsche recommended. Ended up spinning a bearing and had to replace the motor. I’d rather get something that has motorsports in mind so it is not compromised as much with emissions regulation and cost targets.
M1 0W-40 is an oil used by professional race teams.

The guy that spun a bearing probably starved his oil pickup tube in a left turn under heavy braking. It's a pretty common failure.
 
It’s not an oil really suited for the track. I read about a guy who followed the A40 spec and ran what Porsche recommended. Ended up spinning a bearing and had to replace the motor. I’d rather get something that has motorsports in mind so it is not compromised as much with emissions regulation and cost targets.
Yeah I’d like to see the technical analysis that indicates thr oil is the definitive cause of the failure.

As for the rest of your comment, what compromises are we talking about exactly?
 
The GT3 cup cars, are purpose built race motors with clearances and materials tuned to extract every ounce of HP out of them, and they get rebuilt every 25hrs. I suspect they use 0w-40 because of the catalytic converters on the car.

The reason most of the boutique oils exist in the first place is out of a need for a higher performance oil. The DT40/DI40 oil was born out of solving a problem with street engine reliability under heavy racing loads. A lot of guys I race with use the Boutique oils like Motul and Miller’s and Driven and never had any engine failures. Competitive NASA level drivers. I don’t have technical analysis, but I do have experience and common sense!
 
I can’t find it, but someone needs to post up the A40 spec test procedure, I’ve seen it here a few times. It is crazy thorough and I would absolutely trust it more than a brand like Redline’s word.

It sounds like OP had already made up his mind and is looking for reassurance, which is fine.

Edit - found it:

Here is Porsche A40 testing procedure: This test will last 203 hours. The engine, and the oil, will go through: - 4 times the simulation of 35 hours of summer driving, - 4 times the simulation of 13.5 hours of winter driving, - 40 cold starts, - 5 times the simulation of 1-hour sessions on the “Nürburgring” racetrack, - 3.5 hours of “running-in” program Measurements on the engine and on the oil will be done at regular intervals, and the following parameter will be taken into account to grant the approval or not: - torque curve (internal friction), - oxidation of the oil, - Piston cleanliness and ring sticking, - Valve train wear protection. Cam & tappet wear must be less than 10 μm. - Engine cleanliness and sludge: after 203 hours, no deposits must be visible. - Bearing wear protection: visual rating according to Porsche in-house method.
 
The GT3 cup cars, are purpose built race motors with clearances and materials tuned to extract every ounce of HP out of them, and they get rebuilt every 25hrs. I suspect they use 0w-40 because of the catalytic converters on the car.

The reason most of the boutique oils exist in the first place is out of a need for a higher performance oil. The DT40/DI40 oil was born out of solving a problem with street engine reliability under heavy racing loads. A lot of guys I race with use the Boutique oils like Motul and Miller’s and Driven and never had any engine failures. Competitive NASA level drivers. I don’t have technical analysis, but I do have experience and common sense!

You realize M1 0w-40 has reasonably high levels of Zinc/Phos right? 1100 zinc, 1000 phos. This is hardly a "lightweight" in the anti-wear department. It has much higher levels than the "Energy Conserving" oils sold for use this side of the pond, or any of the mid or low SAPS ESP (emissions systems protection) oils.

A40 is an extremely rigorous test procedure, as are the MB protocols. These are guarantees as to a minimum level of performance, of the the parameters being 5 sessions of 1 hour lapping of the Nurburgring.

Also, Motul is not a boutique oil. They are a very large blender that produces a race-specific series of lubes sold under the 300V moniker. They also have a broad portfolio of formally approved lubricants that cover a broad range of applications. This is no different than Mobil's dedicated race oils with the exception that Mobil also regards their 0w-40 as a race oil, even though it isn't part of their dedicated race oil portfolio.

A lot of guys use Lucas, MMO and Seafoam too, these products exist because there is a market for them. People like to think they are "doing better" for their equipment and the same goes for many of the boutique oil products which are marketed in a similar manner. Yes, there may be applications where an oil like Redline, with an extremely high HTHS and extremely elevated levels of anti-wear additives are beneficial, but those applications aren't street engines run on a race track, they are engines pushing the envelope, highly modified and rebuilt regularly. If 900ppm of zinc/phos is sufficient to prevent wear in sliding surface contact in your engine design, going to 3000 isn't going to improve anything.
 
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