Then go down the hill and let engine compression do the braking. You want the load on the rings on both sides. If yo see oil smoke, I would start to look towards valve seals. Lots of newer engines don't want a bore job. It removes the "nikasil' type coating from the aluminum and most places will use a steal liner if the walls are bad.Load the piston rings. Go load your car up with 300 pounds of rock salt and another person find a loonnng up hill hwy and stick it in manual mode and find a gear were you can full throttle it at around 2,500 to 4,500 rpm and it holds the longest. Like 4th gear then 5th gear. Do this 5 times.
Recall a TSB from the 80s from one of the major engine parts companies stating that honing cylinders wasn’t necessary. As per them their rings were designed to use the existing glaze as break in function. Several Chevy dealer techs I worked along side of in the late 70s used to never hone cylinder bores. Ring of choice there was a TRW “10-up” ring kit. We used to say they would bore as they wear. Very hard and high tension rings for worn cylinder bores...Wow, how are new rings suppose to seat right with the bores ?
This article about honing cylinders may be of interest...
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.ht
Load the piston rings. Go load your car up with 300 pounds of rock salt and another person find a loonnng up hill hwy and stick it in manual mode and find a gear were you can full throttle it at around 2,500 to 4,500 rpm and it holds the longest. Like 4th gear then 5th gear. Do this 5 times.
Buy him two six packs of his favorite beer, minimum. If that’s not his thing then do another kind gesture for him if you haven’t already done so. This is where the focus should be instead of a 12 year old car that consumes oil.I would, but I'm afraid to. He got really mad at me when I told my sister some bolts on the valve cover were loose. He did rebuild the engine for free minus parts.
This!Buy him two six packs of his favorite beer, minimum. If that’s not his thing then do another kind gesture for him if you haven’t already done so. This is where the focus should be instead of a 12 year old car that consumes oil.
I bought his some hot sauce ;-) I agree. We're cool now, so I'm not going to bother him with any more car concerns. That's why I have you guys!Buy him two six packs of his favorite beer, minimum. If that’s not his thing then do another kind gesture for him if you haven’t already done so. This is where the focus should be instead of a 12 year old car that consumes oil.
My LTFT is a little high as well. It varies, but sometimes gets up to about +10. Could that have anything to do with it? If it's an exhaust leak, (cat was replaced) it could be giving a false lean reading and adding too much fuel.I know on some of the newer engines the piston to bore clearance is very tight, I think they are trying to help prevent piston slap.
If the original crosshatch is there then there doesn't seem to be much point, with modern FI and air/fuel mixture controls you don't see an real glazing any more either.
I have to study more on this stuff, the methods we used year ago are outdated but thinking out loud I would much prefer an nice OE bore that is in spec with its OE finish then a honed one. It stand to reason if the OE finish is there the crosshatch has held oil and protected it from wearing away.
Going this route may very well result in a significantly better rebuild and better piston fit.
Ring break in may well be a thing of the past as well unless it has been bored and honed and not just new rings. I started thinking about this years ago when I bought a new compressor, the break in was a 20 min run under no load. It must have worked because it uses no measurable amount of oil and never has, I suspect it may have a smooth bore with a 2 stroke type ring system I'm not sure.
If the original crosshatch has not been buggered with a hone why would the rings need breaking in? I don't know it will take a lot more study than I have at the moment.