New Pistons - Oil consumption better but, not great?

I also read that running lean can cause oil consumption. I'm pretty sure I have un metered air getting in because it has all the symptoms. LTFT above +10, rough/high idle, etc.
Check the intake plumbing and that all the PCV, EGR and Brake vacuum lines/fittings have integrity.

then there is the IM gasketing or O-rings.
I found a split rubber air intake hose on a relatively new Mazda 2.2L.
I only found it by taking it completely off and a split on the bottom open up when I flexed it.

Sloppy engine mounts and rocking out of snow when stuck off side of the road in Winter = broken rubber hose.
 
With a no hone cylinder, i'd probably have gone aftermarket, and looked for a moly edged ring. Usually they want a smoother bore for moly rings. Hastings says 240 grit hone but some others say 400-600 grit.
 
Well, I have a leak. It looks like the rear main seal. ATF is leaking slowly too. One thing I should mention is that I was running maxlife synthetic after the rebuild, then did a change with PUP. Any ideas?
 
No. Actually, the Toyota TSB said not to hone the cylinders.
They are correct, I have rebuilt many Toyota engines, and Toyota says not to hone them because it will lead to oil burning, the person who first guided me in rebuilding the 1zz-fe Toyota engine honed the cylinder walls and caused oil burning, I followed Toyota's advise and never ever saw oil burning in 99 engine rebuilds, the low tension piston rings seat upon start up, if you have oil burning after proper piston and piston ring installation (did you use original piston and rings?) then your cylinder walls are worn out from the time of oil burning, where either there was neglect in the oil changes or engine oil may have gone a little too low at times.
 
Back
Top