NEW MAZDA. Break in oil?

[CpArktd]

Can't find a definitive answer.

Does Mazda put a break in oil in it's new cars, or is it simply the standard high Molly 0-20 Mazda oil?

Some claim it is and some say it isn't.
Car is new 2017 Miata. I would like to change it out before the listed 5K miles if it isn't break in oil.
I have the Mazda oil and filters on hand for the change.

Thank You!

 

[mazdamonky]

Run it until 5000 miles and you will be happy! After that, I believe oil changes are rated 7500. This is what is prescribed for my little brothers new Mazda3 In the owners manual at least.

 

[Flying_A]

Moly reduces friction and does not help any kind of "break-in" process, the opposite if anything. Like the OP said, just run what's in it and forget about it.

 

[SF0059]

Hey CpArktd,

From my understanding, it comes from the factory with the typical high moly formula oil. However, most "break-in" oils are high in moly, so it could be considered a break-in oil of sorts.

Mazda is on the record as stating that they do an initial break-in with all engines they manufacture. That coupled with the stout oil and I don't feel the need to change mine prior to the 5k interval. You certainly can if you want to, but I don't think it is necessary.

Congrats on the Miata!

 

[mazdamonky]

Also Pics of the Miata or it didn't happen.

 

[CpArktd]

Wow that was quick!
It's just that spending an extra 50 bucks to change it early would give me some peace of mind that I have done everything I can to potentially protect the largest investment I have ever made, other than my house!

I have a case of the Genuine Mazda 0-20 high molly oil and filters already. Enough for 3 changes.
I can't help but believe that there are microscopic bits of metal from the mating of parts not caught by the filter getting pumped through my waring parts. Also I can't see how it would hurt to change out early UNLESS it came with some sort of break-in oil. If that is known to be the case of course I would leave it.
BUT if the oil in the engine is exactly the same as what I have to change it with why not?

THANKS!

OH OK trying to post a pic. And yes, thats an older Miata in the background, just 17 years older.

 

[quint]

That is a beauty. I want one just like it. Once my 240sx vert rusts away entirely, that's my next car.

As far as the oil, I don't know what Mazda uses at the factory, all I can say is I changed both of mine at 1500 then again at 5000 and have been using 5000 mile intervals since. Neither burns a measureable amount between changes and they both run perfectly. I honestly doubt there is much benefit in changing it early, but it sure made me feel like I did something good. That alone may have been worth the $30 it cost.

Super nice car....

 

[steve20]

SWEET RIDE--happy you posted the pic.
If it were mine, I'd do what Quint says above^^^^ one early change at 1500 then 5K mile OCI
Good Luck with it
Steve

 

[mazdamonky]

I don't know whether Mazda uses a special additive package. You would have to contact them directly, But Mazda seems like the only manufacturer that still builds a car they expect the average joe to work on once it is out of warranty. Meaning that they expect their cars to last out of warranty on their recommended maintenance intervals based on my reasoning skills. Do the Miatas recommend all oil changes at 5k or do they recommend 7500?

The fact the Mazda 3 recommended first at 5k was what I understood as an "early" oil change to clean out break in wear.

 

[Eddie]

I do the "early Mazda" oil change at 5,000 miles. ed

 

[CKN]

Drive until 5,000 miles. Your car won't blow up regardless of what the vehicle cost you.

 

[CpArktd]

Thanks All.

Mazda recommended OCI for the SkyActive engine in the Miata. 3 options.

1) Normal Use... Every 7500 miles
2) Heavy , dusty, mountainous, extreme cold or hot, etc.... Every 5000.
3) Flexible .... Computer figures it out and tells you based on actual conditions / driving style.

I see no reference for any difference for the first change other than the above guide.
I have set my computer to Flex on the car for now.

 

[mazdamonky]

I wonder if the "Flex" calculates a shorter change for the first change. I would let that do its thing. If they light doesn't come on by 5k then change.

 

[mazdamonky]

Also That Miata looks great. Personally I would rather have the old one though!

 

[CpArktd]

Originally Posted By: mazdamonky
Also That Miata looks great. Personally I would rather have the old one though!


The old one is about used up... I bought it off a repo lot 6-7 years ago. Put 100k miles on it. I put a few minor mods on it. header, cam, head shave. oversize inconel valves, full SS exhaust, 2 core alum rad, 4° across the board timing advance, converted to coil on plug Ign.
Needs a top, a paint job, and is burning 1 pint of oil per ~11 gal tank of gas. Trans wants to jump out of first gear on occasion...But it still LOVES to rip to the redline!

I have two grandsons that are just getting their DL permits, they may inherit it for around town / school.

 

[BrocLuno]

If you are going under there, install a magnetic drain plug. Even if you leave the oil (minus what spills out changing drain plugs). Glue a flex refer magnet on one side of the oil filter. Between the two, they will get most of the dangerous Fe metals (hardened steel bits) that can really hurt things. Aluminum bits will get ground to dust in short order. Brass and Bronze won't really hurt much ...

Nice ride. Enjoy

 

[CpArktd]

Good reminder!

I think it has a Magnetic drain plug... will change if it doesn't!

Can do the oil filter one as well, I have seen ones you can buy with very strong magnets for the filter but they were stupid crazy expensive. And have heard of them getting thrown away by the oil change techs if you hire it out...
I have some flexible sheet magnet material like they use for those magnetic truck door signs, bet that would work.

 

[Artem]

It baffles me that in 2017 we still don't have a concrete, solid answer to the typical break-in question.

I personally lean towards getting that junk out of there ASAP. My last 4 new vehicle have all gotten 1k early oil changes to remove break-in metal, and other possible contaminants out of the engine.

We spend so much time trying to find the best protecting oil, in hopes of limiting engine wear yet allow the initial break-in oil that is loaded with metallic particles to freely float around for 5, 7.5, or even 10k+ miles before changing. Doesn't make sense to me. Might as well run the cheapest dinosaur juice after that and avoid anything labeled with anti-wear or oils made with moly, etc because it doesn't matter at that point.

Some say the metallic, sand paper like break-in oil might help in "polishing" engine bits during break-in, and perhaps smooth out some engine parts but this isn't the 1960s and engine design and manufacturing has gotten pretty good at perfecting engines and there shouldn't be any rough surfaces that need an abrasive oil soup to insure that these parts will be silky smooth for the next 200k miles. Besides, 600 miles of the initial oil splashing is enough to get the job done.

Most owners manuals recommend the 600 mile break-in interval where you take it easy on the new car and run it through its paces. After that, I feel it's time to get that junk out of there. I also do an early transmission fluid flush as well in my performance oriented vehicles.

Some will swear not to touch it, others say to change it ASAP. There's no solid scientifically proven proof for either argument.

P.S. back in the day, my 2007 Honda CBR600RR Sport bike recommended an oil change after the first 600 miles of break-in (this was in the owners manual and the dealership also recommended it) Why on earth would Honda recommend I trash what some say is perfectly good virgin oil, still loaded with TBN and additives that probably haven't even activated yet, all while increasing my waste footprint on the earth by trashing good oil and oil filter if there wasn't proof that this procedure will help insure a long healthy engine life for my sport bike????

I haven't bought a new bike since but I'd be interested to know if Honda now recommends we leave that oil in, in an effort to look Green on paper and save the polar ice caps. Screw the engine... it will be fine and should last until the warranty expires.

 

[alarmguy]

Good luck with the car, great looking car, not sure you know, also top rated in Consumer Reports new auto issue.
Mazda is one heck of an underrated company, except to the people who buy their automobiles, they learn real fast what a great vehicle they make. (dont let the secret out)

 

[PimTac]

From what I know about Mazda, the factory fill is made by Idemitsu. They manufacture it according to Mazda's specs. It has a ton of moly in it. Idemitsu also makes the factory fill for most of the Japanese brands. If your Japanese car was made in USA Or elsewhere outside Japan, then the factory fill is supplied by a local maker. Example, Honda factory fill is Idemitsu in Japan but for US made vehicles I believe it's Conoco Philips.