New furnace required - advice welcomed

Joined
Jul 7, 2014
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5,169
Location
Winnipeg MB CA
Hello all -

I've replaced a few things on our furnace in recent years and kept it limping along, but the time has come.

It's a 30ish-year-old Carrier, natural gas, mid-efficiency, and it packed it in yesterday morning. In the past five years I've replaced the blower motor, the fan control board, and the heat-limit switch. I called a local indy company with good online reviews, and the tech was really good. He diagnosed a bad induction-motor assembly, which is pricey enough, but then also found the bulkhead to which the assembly mounts is very rusty. The heat-exchanger is not far behind.

Plus, the federal government is going to ramp up the carbon tax on all fossil fuels, including natural gas, so a more-efficient furnace is not a bad idea anyway. I doubt the old one is hitting its nominal 80% efficiency anymore.

OK, so I've accepted that it's time.

By law, all new furnaces here have to meet high-efficiency standards - I think 90% efficiency. The ones I'm looking at are nominally 96%.

Because of the high efficiency, the furnace vents out through a wall, rather than up through a chimney. The downside of this is that the water heater (also natural-gas-fired) is not allowed to use the existing chimney as-is - the chimney pipe diameter is too large for the reduced amount of exhaust that would be generated by the water heater alone. And therefore a chimney liner is required, which adds about $1200 plus tax to the total. (An alternative is to replace the gas-fired water heater with an electric one, but it's much more expensive to heat with electricity. The savings created by the more-efficient furnace using less gas would be offset by the extra cost of heating water.)

There's a tech from a competing company (another indy with a good reputation) coming to estimate the job tomorrow.

I think it will come down to the brand, unless there's a really significant price difference.

Company A is offering Daikan units.

Company B offers a rebranded Lennox line. Air Serve? Something like that.

My questions:

1. What are BITOGers' opinions of these two brands?

2. Company A has quoted two different levels of Daikin furnace - a mid-level model, and a higher-end one.

Besides a longer warranty on the higher-end one, the main difference seems to be a "variable-speed ECM" vs. a "multi-speed motor". Is this DC vs AC? Would the variable-speed ECM use significantly less electricity than the conventional motor? We run the furnace fan year round for the HRV, which uses the HVAC ductwork. The conventional AC motor does run up the electric bill, running 24/7.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
 
Not much difference between the motors .
Why not go with power vented hot water tank ?
With the furnace brand does not really matter its the installation that matters most, last home we installed an armstrong furnace went 20 years with no problems what so ever new home 8 years with an Amana (goodman) again no issues at all.
 
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I have a 95% Lennox that goes out of the basement wall but my hot water tank still uses the chimney (no liner). Furnace was installed 10 years ago and had the hot water tank replaced about 3 years ago. Not sure if this applies to all chimneys?
 
you should see quite a bit of savings running a ecm blower motor , you're going from around 800 watts to 100 or less, more so running 24/7
Why not go with power vented hot water tank ?

ECM motors aren't magic. If it took 1/3HP to move the air with a PSC motor, it will take the same amount of energy with an ECM motor...
 
The downside of this is that the water heater (also natural-gas-fired) is not allowed to use the existing chimney as-is - the chimney pipe diameter is too large for the reduced amount of exhaust that would be generated by the water heater alone.

Presumably the existing chimney works just fine for the water heater when the furnace isn't running. Why isn't this a problem in the summer?
 
I have a 95% Lennox that goes out of the basement wall but my hot water tank still uses the chimney (no liner). Furnace was installed 10 years ago and had the hot water tank replaced about 3 years ago. Not sure if this applies to all chimneys?
I first heard about the chimney flue issue from the water-tank installer in late 2017. He was doing his due diligence, warning me that if the furnace had to be replaced, the new furnace would have to be high-efficiency (and thus not use the chimney), and that if I wanted to keep the gas-fired water heater, a liner would be required. (And therefore I might want to cancel and go with an electric water heater instead.)

This was confirmed by the furnace tech yesterday.

Perhaps, and this is only a guess, it's thought that the pilot light on an older furnace provides enough additional exhaust volume to complement that of the water heater.
 
Not much difference between the motors .
Why not go with power vented hot water tank ?
With the furnace brand does not really matter its the installation that matters most, last home we installed an armstrong furnace went 20 years with no problems what so ever new home 8 years with an Amana (goodman) again no issues at all.
I would guess that they figure that the power vent wouldn't work if there were an outage. Just a guess though.
 
Perhaps, and this is only a guess, it's thought that the pilot light on an older furnace provides enough additional exhaust volume to complement that of the water heater.

Could be, except that furnaces without pilot lights have been available for at least 35 years, and I think energy regulations made furnaces with pilot lights extinct by the early 90s.
 
It probably still makes sense before they mandate the condensing furnace, because you would rather want the flue to corrode instead of carbon monoxide poisoning. The lesser of two evil I think.

With the mandate of condensing furnace this "too big of a vent" problem will be the bigger one than the no longer existing carbon monoxide poisoning problem.

$1200 is going to be cheaper than going electric water heater for sure, unless electricity is cheap where you are and you have "free heat" in a warm climate like Florida / Hawaii to go with heat pump water heater.

I thought the same! However, it must comply with code, even when code doesn't make sense.
 
35, here is another recent BITOG thread you may want to read through. Some good info here.
 
Mine didn't need a insert. I guess the pipe is small enough that it was the right size for the hot water tank. I have a carbon monoxide sensor in the furnace room and it's never made a peep.

Hot water tank was actually put in in 2016 not 3 years ago. I had to go and look at it....
 
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My son is a licensed master HVAC installer and service tech with 24 years experience.
He installed a Goodman furnace and A/C unit in his sisters house.
If you knew her you would not install crap.
 
Retired 20 plus years gas service tech here and the new venting rules are understandable giving the lack of pilot flames. An inside chimney will have sufficient draw from the pilots and ambient. A outside chimney or one run in unheated space will lose draw. The old rules would allow for a 5 minute run of the main burner to establish a draw, failure of which would condemn said chimney.
 
Daikin residential equipment is just rebranded goodman equipment. Goodman is the cheapest of the cheap when it comes to HVAC equipment. I have been in the hvac trade for over a decade now and I dont recommend goodman to anyone.

If you want good equipment look for Trane/American Standard or Rheem/ Ruud.
 
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