New chain sharpener

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Mar 22, 2007
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West Sunbury , Pa.
Hopefully I haven't posted this in the wrong place . I bought one of these about two months ago . It's not cheap , but it's well made,and works better than acting I've used before. Plus I dont have to go to the dealer to have my chains ground down to nothing for 10 bucks a pop. The carbide cutter has lasted for 25 + chains so far .
www.timberlinesharpener.com
 
Wow, very cool tool. Looks well made.

I don't own a CS, but I bought the jig & stones to use a Dremel whenever I borrow a neighbors. Trying to work with a dull chain is just an exercise in futility....and dangerous.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
For that much money, I'd just buy a new saw.

I didn't post it for the poulan/ [censored] owner. But,I can see your point .
 
I'm sure this thing does a nice job, but you are locked into one angle only for your top and side plates (probably not a problem for the average amateur cutter) and there doesn't appear to be a anything other than the original hook angle to replicate your file height.
This could be problematic as the cutter is filed back as the file height needs to drop slightly in relation to the chassis height to maintain hook angle. (hook angle of a round filed chain determines self feed speed of the chain into the wood)

A Husky roller guide is very cheap, a Carlton File-O-Plate is even cheaper, as are files by the box and both guides are very fast to use, almost as quick as freehand.

BTW, you still need to drop your rakers/depth gauges to the correct height for fastest/easiest cutting as the tooth is filed back, so you still need a depth gauge guide and flat files.
 
wow that looks nice.
I done a couple days of tree work last week and this week, yesterday and today. You should have loaned that to me.
Figures - today I got done with all my tree trimming.
I did enough sharpening in 4 days of cutting.
The 2 saws are cleaned up, sharpened via hand file & guide.

Last year I tried using my Dremel w/attachment. Just ate up those stones to fast, packages of them. Went back to the file this year.

That sharpener is nice, but I don't do enough to justify it. Only reason my cutting took 4 days this year is because I cut the cutting a little short last year, so had to make up what I didn't do. I should do em all, but only do a few (4-5) a year, eventually it all rotates back to the first after a few years.
I like trees (when they are okay) - I hate trees (when I have to cut).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: nixon
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
For that much money, I'd just buy a new saw.

I didn't post it for the poulan/ [censored] owner. But,I can see your point .


lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: tdi-rick
I'm sure this thing does a nice job, but you are locked into one angle only for your top and side plates (probably not a problem for the average amateur cutter) and there doesn't appear to be a anything other than the original hook angle to replicate your file height.
This could be problematic as the cutter is filed back as the file height needs to drop slightly in relation to the chassis height to maintain hook angle. (hook angle of a round filed chain determines self feed speed of the chain into the wood)

A Husky roller guide is very cheap, a Carlton File-O-Plate is even cheaper, as are files by the box and both guides are very fast to use, almost as quick as freehand.

BTW, you still need to drop your rakers/depth gauges to the correct height for fastest/easiest cutting as the tooth is filed back, so you still need a depth gauge guide and flat files.


I still use My Stihl ,and Pferd file systems as well as My FOP . My chains (RSC ,and RMC ,as well as the WP RM ) don't require any of special angles that you alluded to . I'm just an amateur at it after all . I do check the rakers every filing regardless of how the chain is sharpened . Thanks for the tips !
 
Different chain manufacturers specify different angles, that's all. (and I often run differently to what they recommend, depending on what I'm cutting)

eg. IIRC in 3/8 round filed chain, Carlton and Oregon semi-chisel spec a 35* top plate angle, Stihl and Windsor specced 30* on their semi-chisel (and full chisel with Stihl and Carlton) and Windsor and Oregon 25* on their full chisel.
 
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