New 2024 Toyota Tacoma T24a-fts

I have a little over 10k on my 24 Tacoma. I am a few changes in, and just switched to HPL 5w30 PCMO. The motor now feels smooth as silk too. I'll probable switch to the HPL 0w30, but I have to work through a couple cases of the 5w30 first. I have similar concerns as you as far as OCI, I plan to keep this truck 10-15 years so I want to go a little overboard. Running a good off the shelf M1 ect, oil, 4-5k is pretty conservative but was my plan. Now running HPL, I will probably go 5-6k and not worry if I go a little over that, due to being busy. I know the oils are good for longer than that, I just do not want any sludge, varnish or piston deposits if I can help it and I think that keeping OCI's short, especially HPL should help with that.
Now my non turbo 4runner, whith a long proven and solid engine, gets HPL and will probably get changed around 10k+. Oh, BTW, If you put 5.9 Qts in, it will be a little over filled (with filter change) Add a little over 5 qts and check. I think my truck uses about 5.4.

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On my 24 Tundra I’m running M1 EP 0W20 with BG MOA. Since I bought the prepaid maintenance plan up to 85K. I plan on doing 5K changes. One by me and the other at the dealer. MOA will get used both times. Why MOA? I’ve heard decent things about it. Am I wasting money using it…absolutely, lol.
 
If it was me, I’d stick to M1 or any dexos1 oil in 0W-20 under warranty and go thicker after powertrain warranty is up. 5W-30 would be my pick when that happens.

Toyota did word the owners manual for the US/Canada ambiguously but dealers will do anything to deny warranty. I’m not sure if Toyota does UOAs for engine claims but dealerships generally want to see proof of maintenance done and not such more materials used.
 
FWIW for my 2.0 GDI Cadillac I'm using the recommended 0W-20 (NAPA full syn) until the warranty is out. After that, I'll use the NAPA brand 5W-30, which is what I'm using in my wife's Jeep now that the warranty is out. I did notice the motor in the Jeep (Cherokee 2.4 Multiair) ran a little quieter with 5W-30 oil.
 
I'm considering a car with this same engine. Which would be the best out of:
  • HPL PCMO 5W-30 (HTHS ~3.26) - API SP; cSt@100C = 10.72
  • HPL 5W-30 Euro (HTHS > 3.5) - mid SAPS; API SN, MB 229.51/C30/VW 504; cSt@100C = 12.08
  • HPL Super Car 0W-30 (HTHS > 3.5) - full SAPS; API SL, MB 229.5/A40/VW 502; cSt@100C = 12.20
  • HPL No VII PCMO 5W-30 (HTHS ~3.4) - API SP; cSt@100C = 10.54
  • HPL No VII Euro 5W-30 (HTHS > 3.5) - full SAPS; MB 229.5/A40/VW 502;cSt@100C = 11.19
The lowest winter temperatures the area I reside in saw in the past ~14 years was -26C/-14F if that helps.
 
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I to want to make sure I do proper maintenance on my new 24 Tacoma as well. Especially oil change maintenance. It seems the consensus is to go no more than 5000 mile intervals. I would have to agree after lurking around several different forums and youtube videos. I watched a recent video on youtube where the owner actually had his oil analyzed over 2 oil changes. He includes the report on the oil analysis in the video and it is quite compelling. Give it a watch, I think most will find the video very informative.
 
I'm considering a car with this same engine. Which would be the best out of:
  • HPL PCMO 5W-30 (HTHS ~3.26) - API SP; cSt@100C = 10.72
  • HPL 5W-30 Euro (HTHS > 3.5) - mid SAPS; API SN, MB 229.51/C30/VW 504; cSt@100C = 12.08
  • HPL Super Car 0W-30 (HTHS > 3.5) - full SAPS; API SL, MB 229.5/A40/VW 502; cSt@100C = 12.20
  • HPL No VII PCMO 5W-30 (HTHS ~3.4) - API SP; cSt@100C = 10.54
  • HPL No VII Euro 5W-30 (HTHS > 3.5) - full SAPS; MB 229.5/A40/VW 502;cSt@100C = 11.19
The lowest winter temperatures the area I reside in saw in the past ~14 years was -26C/-14F if that helps.
What vehicle and year? What nearby major city?
 
I to want to make sure I do proper maintenance on my new 24 Tacoma as well. Especially oil change maintenance. It seems the consensus is to go no more than 5000 mile intervals. I would have to agree after lurking around several different forums and youtube videos. I watched a recent video on youtube where the owner actually had his oil analyzed over 2 oil changes. He includes the report on the oil analysis in the video and it is quite compelling. Give it a watch, I think most will find the video very informative.

Why can't people figure out after all these years that UOA is an analysis of oil, not an engine?
And how do they know oil is shoot at 6k if there is no TBN and TAN?
 
Why can't people figure out after all these years that UOA is an analysis of oil, not an engine?
And how do they know oil is shoot at 6k if there is no TBN and TAN?
Good point. After watching the video again, TBN and TAN was not included in his UOA! Those two tests are clearly missing on his test sheet.
 
I thought that I would share my first UOA on this engine (T24A-FTS) for those here that might be interested. Oil tested was PUP 5W-30; 4,326 miles on the oil (mainly short trip/spirited driving); 15,311 total miles on the engine.

I was specifically curious to know if this engine was a fuel diluter or not. Turns out that it is, at least to some degree. Knowing this reinforces and validates my decision to use a heavier weight oil than recommended (for the NA market) and keep my OCI's to around 5,000 miles.

I'm hoping that the elevated Silicon is from seals/gaskets from a low-milage engine, rather from contaminants entering through the air intake. I changed the air filter at around 12,500 miles since there is a lot of dust in the air where I live.

Moving forward, I'm thinking of moving to a Euro oil such as M1 ESP or Amsoil Euro 0W or 5W-30.

Lexus Test 1.webp
 
I thought that I would share my first UOA on this engine (T24A-FTS) for those here that might be interested. Oil tested was PUP 5W-30; 4,326 miles on the oil (mainly short trip/spirited driving); 15,311 total miles on the engine.

I was specifically curious to know if this engine was a fuel diluter or not. Turns out that it is, at least to some degree. Knowing this reinforces and validates my decision to use a heavier weight oil than recommended (for the NA market) and keep my OCI's to around 5,000 miles.

I'm hoping that the elevated Silicon is from seals/gaskets from a low-milage engine, rather from contaminants entering through the air intake. I changed the air filter at around 12,500 miles since there is a lot of dust in the air where I live.

Moving forward, I'm thinking of moving to a Euro oil such as M1 ESP or Amsoil Euro 0W or 5W-30.

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Thanks for posting this. I have not found many reports on this engine yet. I run a 5-30 too, going to do me 5k change this weekend.
 
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