That is correct.
Need rec, for a 1966 Shelby GT350 clone
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Well, I will certainly be sure to forward this thread in its entirety to him. I'll also be sure to post some more info/questions if anything comes up over the next few days. Additionally, pictures will follow shortly per Johnny's request. Thanks to everyone.
Originally Posted By: sonyman
I have a feeling he'd rather use a dino oil anyway. Having established all this, I also have a feeling that a 40-weight would be best, since that falls in the middle of SAE30 vs 20W50, the builder's recommendation. This brings me to one last question (for now), what oils provide adequate protection since we now know it has flat tappets?
Well, the problem is all the major brand HDEO are the now the low emission CJ-4 grade with caps on the Phosphorus and thus Zinc levels. This may be an issue with flat tappet cams, the jury is still out.
In the mean time, there are still a few on the shelf oils that are the older CI-4 grade with relatively high levels of P/Zn, such as: Castrol GTX Diesel, (not Tection), and Walmart Supertech Universal 15w-40. Both have done well in recent comparison tests.
Another is Shell Rotella single grade 30 wt.
Also, the CI-4+ Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 is high in P/Zn, and to a slighly lesser extent is the Mobil 1 15w-50.
I have a feeling he'd rather use a dino oil anyway. Having established all this, I also have a feeling that a 40-weight would be best, since that falls in the middle of SAE30 vs 20W50, the builder's recommendation. This brings me to one last question (for now), what oils provide adequate protection since we now know it has flat tappets?
Well, the problem is all the major brand HDEO are the now the low emission CJ-4 grade with caps on the Phosphorus and thus Zinc levels. This may be an issue with flat tappet cams, the jury is still out.
In the mean time, there are still a few on the shelf oils that are the older CI-4 grade with relatively high levels of P/Zn, such as: Castrol GTX Diesel, (not Tection), and Walmart Supertech Universal 15w-40. Both have done well in recent comparison tests.
Another is Shell Rotella single grade 30 wt.
Also, the CI-4+ Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 is high in P/Zn, and to a slighly lesser extent is the Mobil 1 15w-50.
15W-40 is widely available everywhere including Wal*Mart.
I wouldn't consider 5W-40 for this application no.
I wouldn't consider 5W-40 for this application no.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
15W-40 is widely available everywhere including Wal*Mart.
I wouldn't consider 5W-40 for this application no.
Indeed.....because then you would forced to explain what CJ-4 is and how it might or might not be the best choice. Stick with a good high ZDDP 15W-40.
15W-40 is widely available everywhere including Wal*Mart.
I wouldn't consider 5W-40 for this application no.
Indeed.....because then you would forced to explain what CJ-4 is and how it might or might not be the best choice. Stick with a good high ZDDP 15W-40.
Originally Posted By: sonyman
Is there a disadvantage to using the Shell 5W40 over the 15W40?
Well, for one thing the Rotella 5w-40 is a very high detergent heavy-duty diesel oil (HDEO). It has been said high detergency levels may interfere with the anti-wear additives in flat tappet gasoline engines, but that is another topic altogether.
A good CI-4/CI-4+ 15w-40 would be my first choice in this case.
I wouldn't be too worried about the engine builders oil advice, You've probably learned more than he knows about motor oil in this one post alone. I bet he suggested 20w-50 simply for the heavier viscosity.
Tell your buddy to stock up on a few cases of the AutoZone sale on Castrol GTX 15w-40 and he'll be set for the next two years or so.
By the way, is that break-in oil the original oil the engine was intiallly fired up with? If so, I'd dump as soon as possible.
Is there a disadvantage to using the Shell 5W40 over the 15W40?
Well, for one thing the Rotella 5w-40 is a very high detergent heavy-duty diesel oil (HDEO). It has been said high detergency levels may interfere with the anti-wear additives in flat tappet gasoline engines, but that is another topic altogether.
A good CI-4/CI-4+ 15w-40 would be my first choice in this case.
I wouldn't be too worried about the engine builders oil advice, You've probably learned more than he knows about motor oil in this one post alone. I bet he suggested 20w-50 simply for the heavier viscosity.
Tell your buddy to stock up on a few cases of the AutoZone sale on Castrol GTX 15w-40 and he'll be set for the next two years or so.
By the way, is that break-in oil the original oil the engine was intiallly fired up with? If so, I'd dump as soon as possible.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
By the way, is that break-in oil the original oil the engine was intiallly fired up with? If so, I'd dump as soon as possible.
I agree. Like I said in my previous post, I'd dump it after 20 minutes and then refill the sump with a second batch of break-in oil for 500 miles.
By the way, is that break-in oil the original oil the engine was intiallly fired up with? If so, I'd dump as soon as possible.
I agree. Like I said in my previous post, I'd dump it after 20 minutes and then refill the sump with a second batch of break-in oil for 500 miles.
Well, I emailed The Mustang Ranch to see what they would say. Here is my email exchange.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: [email protected]
Date: December 22, 2007 11:09:16 AM CST
To: jlpetree@
Subject: Re: Clone Shelby's
20/50 castrol but it depends on who rebuilt your motor and what clearance they set it for
Thanks Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: jlpetree@
To: [email protected]
Cc: jlpetree@
Sent: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 8:52 pm
Subject: Clone Shelby's
Name: Johnny Petree
Tel: 715-581-
Found site by: Referral
After you rebuild one of the hi-performance 289's, what oil do you recommend (weight and brand). Thank you
TheMustangRanch.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: [email protected]
Date: December 22, 2007 11:09:16 AM CST
To: jlpetree@
Subject: Re: Clone Shelby's
20/50 castrol but it depends on who rebuilt your motor and what clearance they set it for
Thanks Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: jlpetree@
To: [email protected]
Cc: jlpetree@
Sent: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 8:52 pm
Subject: Clone Shelby's
Name: Johnny Petree
Tel: 715-581-
Found site by: Referral
After you rebuild one of the hi-performance 289's, what oil do you recommend (weight and brand). Thank you
TheMustangRanch.com
Well, if Mark (above) is the one that built the motor, I would have your friend ask him what kind of clearances he built the motor to. I would also ask him what kind of gasket and seal materials he used that would be harmed by using synthetic oil. If he used modern day materials, they will not be harmed by using synthetic oil. I still like the idea of using either Mobil 1 15W50 or Amsoil 20W50 in that motor. There are other good heavy weight synthetics that would do no harm, including Red Line and Torco. It's my opinion that Mark (above) has no technical reasoning for using Castrol other than he just likes the brand.
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It would normally not be this complicated. I wouldn't be too much troubled by the clearances (that you can deal with via a properly sized oil pump) ..as I would the spring rates. Naturally this rebuild coincides with our devolution of the very additives that would be sensible for a higher spring rate(d) engine with lots of friction points.
What kinda spring rates is this engine running? Anywhere around 220lb(f) should manage with off the shelf oil. It's what's on a common GM pushrod V6 and my farm tractor jeep engines. If he's got springs that put a healthy pressure on the seats (valve closed) then he's surely got something to think about in terms of additive levels.
What kinda spring rates is this engine running? Anywhere around 220lb(f) should manage with off the shelf oil. It's what's on a common GM pushrod V6 and my farm tractor jeep engines. If he's got springs that put a healthy pressure on the seats (valve closed) then he's surely got something to think about in terms of additive levels.
Originally Posted By: sonyman
The person who emailed you back is probably the same person who told my friend to use 20W50 in the beginning. Does this affect your recommendations at all or still go with 15W40?
Even if bearing clearances were set up on the loose end 15w-40 will more than suffice. As "Gary Allen" mentioned valve spring pressure and therefore the anti-wear additive levels are more important than viscosity.
Hence, the recommendation for 15w-40 HDEO.
Not for it's viscosity but rather diesel engine oils have higher anti-wear ZDDP additives than found in average "S" rated passenger cars oil, including most 20w-50 weights.
The person who emailed you back is probably the same person who told my friend to use 20W50 in the beginning. Does this affect your recommendations at all or still go with 15W40?
Even if bearing clearances were set up on the loose end 15w-40 will more than suffice. As "Gary Allen" mentioned valve spring pressure and therefore the anti-wear additive levels are more important than viscosity.
Hence, the recommendation for 15w-40 HDEO.
Not for it's viscosity but rather diesel engine oils have higher anti-wear ZDDP additives than found in average "S" rated passenger cars oil, including most 20w-50 weights.
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