For more opinions on oils for older engines:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf
Best oil for 1966 Pontiac GTO w/ new camshaft?
- Thread starter Exit32
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Originally Posted By: Highline9
Thats a mild cam as far as lobe intensity. Any HDEO should be ok. When lift starts going over .500 worry. Whats your closed and open valve spring pressure?
I'm restoring the engine to factory specs so it will wear a pair of Pontiac 093 heads with stock valve springs. To the best of my knowledge, valve-spring height/pressure closed is specified as 1.600" @ 116 lbs and open is 1.100" @ 302 lbs. Coil bind happens at 0.910"
Thats a mild cam as far as lobe intensity. Any HDEO should be ok. When lift starts going over .500 worry. Whats your closed and open valve spring pressure?
I'm restoring the engine to factory specs so it will wear a pair of Pontiac 093 heads with stock valve springs. To the best of my knowledge, valve-spring height/pressure closed is specified as 1.600" @ 116 lbs and open is 1.100" @ 302 lbs. Coil bind happens at 0.910"
Amsoil has a specific oil for this application.
FWIW we use their Dominator line in the few older engines we still have with regular lifters.
FWIW we use their Dominator line in the few older engines we still have with regular lifters.
The 302Lb @ 1.1" is with the valve open .500, your cam has .100 less so pressures on the cam will more likely be in the mid 200Lb range...
I'd consider the VR-1 as already mentioned...
BTW M1 0W-40 has 1100ppm zinc and their racing oils avail in 0W-30 & 0W-50, 1700ppm...
I'd consider the VR-1 as already mentioned...
BTW M1 0W-40 has 1100ppm zinc and their racing oils avail in 0W-30 & 0W-50, 1700ppm...
Brad-Penn 'Penngrade 1' oil are MADE for this application - this is exactly what they are designed for.
Amsoil's break in oil, their Z-Rod oils, or their Dominator Race oils are also a good choice for this.
Still, I'd be paranoid about additive amounts, so I'd spike whatever you use with a Zinc additive.
Amsoil's break in oil, their Z-Rod oils, or their Dominator Race oils are also a good choice for this.
Still, I'd be paranoid about additive amounts, so I'd spike whatever you use with a Zinc additive.
Originally Posted By: Exit32
I'm in the process of restoring a 1966 Pontiac GTO that is equipped with the optional 389-cubic-inch, 360-horsepower, Tri-Power engine.
This engine was rebuilt by a previous owner, and the cylinder bores, rings, and bearings are in good condition. However, the camshaft is incorrect for a Tri-Power engine, so I am installing the appropriate GM 9779068 camshaft with new hydraulic lifters.
I plan to use Crane Cams Super Moly Assembly Lube to coat all the cam lobes and lifter surfaces before assembly. I will also spin the oil pump with an electric drill to build oil pressure before starting the engine, and I know enough to run the engine at a fast idle for the first 20-30 minutes to make sure the cam is getting plenty of oil during break-in.
My question for those in the know here is, what motor oil would you recommend for the initial break-in period and what motor oil is recommended when it's time to drive this beauty to car shows and cruise nights? Also, do I need a ZDDP additive like ZDDPlus because this is a flat-tappet engine?
I'm thinking maybe Rotella 10w-30 or even Rotella T5 10w-30 would be appropriate.
FWIW, here are the specs for the new GM 9779068 camshaft:
- Intake duration @ .050" lift: 212
- Exhaust duration @ .050" lift: 225
- Intake lift w/ stock 1.5 ratio rockers: 0.408"
- Exhaust lift w/ stock 1.5 ratio rockers: 0.407"
Your opinions and guidance are much appreciated!
JOE GIBBS BREAK IN OIL!! for about 1k then T5 after that
I'm in the process of restoring a 1966 Pontiac GTO that is equipped with the optional 389-cubic-inch, 360-horsepower, Tri-Power engine.
This engine was rebuilt by a previous owner, and the cylinder bores, rings, and bearings are in good condition. However, the camshaft is incorrect for a Tri-Power engine, so I am installing the appropriate GM 9779068 camshaft with new hydraulic lifters.
I plan to use Crane Cams Super Moly Assembly Lube to coat all the cam lobes and lifter surfaces before assembly. I will also spin the oil pump with an electric drill to build oil pressure before starting the engine, and I know enough to run the engine at a fast idle for the first 20-30 minutes to make sure the cam is getting plenty of oil during break-in.
My question for those in the know here is, what motor oil would you recommend for the initial break-in period and what motor oil is recommended when it's time to drive this beauty to car shows and cruise nights? Also, do I need a ZDDP additive like ZDDPlus because this is a flat-tappet engine?
I'm thinking maybe Rotella 10w-30 or even Rotella T5 10w-30 would be appropriate.
FWIW, here are the specs for the new GM 9779068 camshaft:
- Intake duration @ .050" lift: 212
- Exhaust duration @ .050" lift: 225
- Intake lift w/ stock 1.5 ratio rockers: 0.408"
- Exhaust lift w/ stock 1.5 ratio rockers: 0.407"
Your opinions and guidance are much appreciated!
JOE GIBBS BREAK IN OIL!! for about 1k then T5 after that
Glad to see someone using the correct stick for the motor.
Great big cams are a waste on old Ponchos if you don't have really special heads, like the SD455, etc. Plus they don't want to rev anyway, so who needs all that valve timing if you are only going to 5500 rpm?
Nice car, a whole lot of character.
Great big cams are a waste on old Ponchos if you don't have really special heads, like the SD455, etc. Plus they don't want to rev anyway, so who needs all that valve timing if you are only going to 5500 rpm?
Nice car, a whole lot of character.
Have gone through your process more then a few times. LOL.. Just about any straight 30 weight break in oil by Gibbs, Brad Penn, RP would be fine. After that I would use a 10W30 conventional oil like Valvoline VR1 10W30. VR has all the zinc that you need...
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GM EOS has around 6000+ ppm zinc, hardly a low concentration and is a proven product that has been around for decades.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Pics of this car??
Probably my favorite body style ever for the GOAT, and I love those Tri-Power's. That is a lovely car you have there.
Probably my favorite body style ever for the GOAT, and I love those Tri-Power's. That is a lovely car you have there.
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
GM EOS has around 6000+ ppm zinc, hardly a low concentration and is a proven product that has been around for decades.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
If you buy the correct oil, you will not need this additive...
GM EOS has around 6000+ ppm zinc, hardly a low concentration and is a proven product that has been around for decades.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
If you buy the correct oil, you will not need this additive...
We've been using Amsoil HDD 5W30 Synthetic in our 389 CI and 400 CI GTOs for a while now and are very satisfied with the oil's performance. The ZDDP of the HDD 5W30 is 1380, nice and healthy for your new stock cam and lifters.
Another oil you might consider if your car is not used often
is Amsoils ZRod oil. It's a 10W30 synthetic with 1440 ZDDP
and has the benefit of providing additional "fogging" protection to protect against corrosion during periods of prolonged non use.
Check them out fpr yourself on the Amsoil site. They are great oils !
Another oil you might consider if your car is not used often
is Amsoils ZRod oil. It's a 10W30 synthetic with 1440 ZDDP
and has the benefit of providing additional "fogging" protection to protect against corrosion during periods of prolonged non use.
Check them out fpr yourself on the Amsoil site. They are great oils !
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Pics of this car??
Probably my favorite body style ever for the GOAT, and I love those Tri-Power's. That is a lovely car you have there.
Here's what my '66 GTO looks like. I've got the original build sheet, and it's a little unusual for a mid-sixties muscle car because it's a convertible equipped with the Tri-Power engine, automatic transmission, factory A/C, power windows, power steering, and power brakes.
The body and interior are very nice, but a past owner removed the "troublesome" Tri-Power setup from the engine and installed a QuadraJet carb in its place. In addition, the original 093 heads were replaced with lower-compression 092 heads and the camshaft was downgraded. It took me a few years to find the appropriate 093 heads and Tri-Power setup with correct date codes. When I'm done, it will be exactly as is was in the showroom in November, 1965 -- more than 46 years ago!
Pics of this car??
Probably my favorite body style ever for the GOAT, and I love those Tri-Power's. That is a lovely car you have there.
Here's what my '66 GTO looks like. I've got the original build sheet, and it's a little unusual for a mid-sixties muscle car because it's a convertible equipped with the Tri-Power engine, automatic transmission, factory A/C, power windows, power steering, and power brakes.
The body and interior are very nice, but a past owner removed the "troublesome" Tri-Power setup from the engine and installed a QuadraJet carb in its place. In addition, the original 093 heads were replaced with lower-compression 092 heads and the camshaft was downgraded. It took me a few years to find the appropriate 093 heads and Tri-Power setup with correct date codes. When I'm done, it will be exactly as is was in the showroom in November, 1965 -- more than 46 years ago!
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
GM EOS has around 6000+ ppm zinc, hardly a low concentration and is a proven product that has been around for decades.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Exactly! combine that with the Zinc that's in the oil already, and you'll have zinc coming out the ying-yang!
GM EOS has around 6000+ ppm zinc, hardly a low concentration and is a proven product that has been around for decades.
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Exactly! combine that with the Zinc that's in the oil already, and you'll have zinc coming out the ying-yang!
Originally Posted By: Rock_Hudstone
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Anybody notice the miniscule valve lift(at least by today's stds)??? Even stiff springs aren't going to be placing a extreme load on the lifters and cam lobes...
Its a long duration low lift cam for sure, but it doesn't take much to wipe out a cam these days.
Passenger car motor oil circa 1966 had tons of ZDDP. Even up to 1995 API SG grade oil had 1200-1300 ppm, its been down hill ever since, the curent API SN grade is a pathetic 600 ppm average.
All done in the name of "global warming".
Not global warming....
HC, CO, and NOx
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Anybody notice the miniscule valve lift(at least by today's stds)??? Even stiff springs aren't going to be placing a extreme load on the lifters and cam lobes...
Its a long duration low lift cam for sure, but it doesn't take much to wipe out a cam these days.
Passenger car motor oil circa 1966 had tons of ZDDP. Even up to 1995 API SG grade oil had 1200-1300 ppm, its been down hill ever since, the curent API SN grade is a pathetic 600 ppm average.
All done in the name of "global warming".
Not global warming....
HC, CO, and NOx
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