We’re all carbon based. Carbon, the building block of life lol
Myth Using Synthetic 10W30 Today in GDI Engines ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Because specifications set by European manufacturers are more stringent. Deposit limits, Noack limits etc. Porsche for example has specific Nordschleife test requirement.
Now, you can’t compare engines available here and Europe. Some, but VERY few engines available here in American and Asian vehicles are found in vehicles of those companies in Europe. It is becoming more common as EU is buying mostly now gas engines so you can find certain small turbo engines in EU and US. For example, Hyundai V6 in Europe and even 2.0T would be considered big engine there. Their sale is absolutely abysmal.
German market, being largest in EU, and not having speed limit on 70% of autobahn’s, sets rules for everyone else. Think about doing 110-120mph between Munich and Hamburg in 1.2 turbo engine.
But, Mobil1 recommends in iX35 with 3.8 V6 Mobil1 ESP 0W30 ACEA C3, which is your typical Euro oil with HTHS minimum 3.5.
You can’t damage engine with these Euro oils. It would be pushing going 10W60, but oils carrying MB229.5 etc. are going to work great.
Same goes for 2.0T
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I just had a new engine put in a 2017 Kia Sorento. I have a dealership here in Georgia and I would love to tell the next owner the best oil they can have in this unit.
It stinks that people have to go through all this just to figure out how to make an engine last.
It stinks that people have to go through all this just to figure out how to make an engine last.
I wonder if the SMOG rating is worse than 3 thanks to oil consumption due to D.I. 🤨 .
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It could be that the suggestion of Redline 5w30 was good but you take a really good oil with a high naturally solvency it could be cleaning and that is where your consumption issue is. I went from Castrol Magnetic 0w20 SN to PUP 0w20 as part of the Pennzoil Promo and it consumed for the first couple thousand miles and this might be the same thing. HPL and Redline, Motul 300V and some of the Amsoil SS brands are simply fighting the old oil for boundary on the metal surface which is why we see so many manufacturers pushing for flushed to remove impurities left behind. This is a strong hunch but not factual but it sounds probable.
Yes. That's consistent with the research I referred to back in post #17.
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I appreciate your advice. It's not cleaning though, as there isn't much to clean, considering that I always had reasonably short OCIs, ran good oils in the engine, and didn't short trip it.
As @High Performance Lubricants noted about "overfilling" the engine. I used to run 6.5 quarts of oil in the engine. With Red Line 5W-30, because it's expensive, I decided to cheap up and run only the recommended 6 quarts. The engine can actually hold up to 7. The extra quart will stay in the oil heat exchanger and filer housing. When the engine is off this quarts drops almost entirely back into the pan. In later model years they moved the oil heat exchanger and filter to the bottom of the engine and are now recomending 7 quarts of oil. However, Hyundai/KIA was never good at figuring out what oil they wanted in their engines to begin with, or what quantity, for that matter. How they could screw up so badly is beyond me. I will up the oil to 7 quarts tomorrow and see what happens.
@ChrisD46 I used to run 6 quarts of oil in all my Theta II engines (2.4L) and never had any issues. An old Hyundai Tech recommended this to me. He fixed a bunch of these engines, took them apart, knew them inside - out. He told me that if I want to keep my engine, I should run 6 quarts of at least 5W-30. If I were you, I'd switch to 6 quarts of Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and go from there, see what happens.
Recently, there was a movement to homologate API SN Plus/SP specs with the ACEA C5/6 specs due to overlap and commonalities in the US and European marketplace such as downsizing and GDI. Castrol Edge EP 0W-30 carries API SP, D1G3 and ACEA C5 approval, along with a Mercedes and VW approval. Is that true with other oils getting dual SP/C5 approval as well?
I'm not qualified to comment.
So , that best oil is ?
Clean oil not loaded with fuel
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Everyone has their own favorite oils, and that's perfectly fine. At number one it's my absolute favorite brand due to their professionalism, integrity, transparency, high quality products, and not least, the fact that they support this community. At least in my view, HPL set the bar so high that it's become a pretty tough act to follow:
- @High Performance Lubricants
- AMSOIL
- Red Line Oil
- Mobil 1
- Certain Shell Products
- Certain Castrol products
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To confirm : My '17 Hyundai 2.4L Theta II comes with the increased capacity oil dipstick (i.e. orange versus the old yellow color dipstick end) ?
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I'm trying to help you with your oil consumption issue, as I have some experience with the 2.4 GDI.
Three questions for you:
1) Did it come with the "increased capacity" oranged dipstick from the factory, or did you get that via a recall or service bulletin update?
2) What other lubricants did you run in the engine and did it always consume oil?
3) How many miles on the vehicle and when did it start to consume oil?
I'm trying to offer you a best guess why it's consuming oil, as the amount of oil it's consuming is not normal.
As for my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3L, I ordered a quart of engine cleaner from HPL and I will run a full 5000 mile OCI with that. I know the engine is clean, however, I want to get out whatever little possible dirt is in it. I will also send an oil sample to OAI and see if there is any unusual amount of wear metals or fuel dilution.
E.g. - if you have one or more pistons scuffing the bore, that should show up in an oil analysis as an decent size increase in Aluminum. Someone who knows more than me about the subject please correct me. I know that @dnewton3 is highly skilled and experienced when it comes to organizing and interpreting UOA data.
@ChrisD46 if I'm right, then you should probably do the same. Unfortunately, I learned that with these Hyundai engines the viscosity or oil brand isn't exactly the solution to keeping them for a long time. Proper maintenance and keeping them clean is.
Yep. The end result is the new A7/B7 and as you mentioned C6. These categories includes the same timing chain and LSPI tests required for certifying under API SP.
A7/B7 have HTHS viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPas
C6 HTHS min is 2.6 mPas
2021 ACEA Test Sequences
The color switch was to prevent dealer techs from screwing up when performing the bulletin. And yes, my local dealer completed the recall and forgot to swap the dipstick. I caught it at the dealership and pulled the service writer to the car.
Unless yours was replaced by a campaign/recall like the earlier 2011-14 engines, then the current orange dipstick is assumed standard capacity.
I was a little shocked to see orange standard capacity dipsticks. even with the 2021/22 theta-ii's.
I would either compare it with a known 'replaced dipstick' or order one for comparison.
Here's my 2011 and 2021 dipsticks, both orange and 2.4gdi's. I ended up ordering a new 2011 bulletin dippystick for the 2021. I hope that your tape measure verifies your mega high vs pitiful low capacity oil sumps
The dipstick's extra 1/4" allegedly solves all known Hyundai engine problems.😉