I know it's not a very large displacement but 3.49 quarts in the sump, holy cow. If you find yourself a quart low, you're low.
Myth Using Synthetic 10W30 Today in GDI Engines ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Interesting. The same engine in my Soul the book says 3.8 qt, I just throw in 4.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
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I made the switch from Blackstone since fuel results are questionable as u know. Now use Oil_Analyzers/Polaris Labs. Pleased with results and report format. They use the G.C. at their labs. Purchased my prepaid/postage sample kits from Amsoil. Matter of fact , was steered there from a couple of BITOG members.
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@Gokhan posted many theories here on BITOG over the years that are mostly wild speculations and postulations. In some ways I have a hard time understanding his borderline obsession with the subject of lubricants, specifically motor oils.
Due to the secretive nature of this industry, room for speculation and wild theories is allowed. Unsurprisingly, the less people know about the subject at hand, the smarter they think they are. It's the Dunning-Kruger Effect at its worse.
Numerous times @Gokhan tried to establish himself as an authoritarian figure, acting like he knows what he's talking about, and by doing so, he attempted to create dogma out of his own assumptions and theories about the subject matters that he was tackling. Unfortunately, he does not work in the industry, neither does he have the credentials to support his allegations and theories.
Ultimately, there is nothing wrong for someone to set pride aside and admit that they are a hobbyist. I joined the forum to learn more about maintaining my own vehicles and how I can make better decisions about my lubricants selection to accomplish that. In the process I met a great deal of awesome people here on BITOG, and occasionally had a little bit of fun, and got into an argument once in a while. However, at the end of the day, I'm a hobbyist. And so are many many others here.
Actually, all you need to do for a GDI engine is use decent oil, preferably with good solvency characteristics (ANs, Esters, or both), and change it on a regular basis. Mobil 1 Vanilla, EP, FS (yes, I said Full-SAPS), and ESP fit the bill nicely.
Don't short trip your GDI engine if you can help it, and don't baby it. This last part is critical: DO NOT BABY IT! I'm not talking about revving the nuts and bolts off the engine, I'm talking about driving the vehicle for longer distances and putting a decent load on the engine every so often to heat up the combustion chambers, burn off any lingering fuel, and get as much carbon out as possible. People with GDI engines who have long commutes experience a minimal amount of problems with them.
All of these "five-to-six steps to GDI happiness" are just more unproven theories. I could add step 7 for you: "Say Sayu-Baba outloud three times every time you start your GDI engine and leave the parking lot or your driveway. It helps keep the injectors in good spirits, under pressure, and not leaking."
Of course, if your drive three miles, five times a day, then you will eventually ruin any engine, not just a GDI engine.
That is very good news indeed to hear ! My '17 Sonata DI loves producing soot, the oil starts to discolor relatively early in the new oil fill and burns upward of a quart of oil over a 4K Mile OCI . If nothing else , I'll be interested to learn if going to a 10W30 grade will reduce consumption as I am getting some blow by in an otherwise clean , well-maintained GDI engine . *I'd like to see what the 2.4L GDI owner's manual allows in other countries such as Australia , Europe , the Middle East , etc. to see if safe to run a 0W40 or 5W40 synthetic Euro oil ? I know some owners just go ahead and do it - I'd like to know if the engine design can in fact safely handle it in terms of oil gally size(s) , pumpability , engine tolerances , etc.
Sounds like using HPL, Redline and other oils of similar making is your suggestion? I do wonder what these premium grade oils can do when the operator doesn't get it up to temp or idles it too long or as a taxi. Does there ever become a point where even the best of oil can't help because it's not get the chance to work to it's fullest.
Work commute is 30+ minutes one way , I am conservative to ease through the gears for several minutes from a cold start to get the engine warmed up - then I'm mostly driving in Sport mode to keep the RPM's at 2,000 minimum and to prevent the engine from lugging . Other times I'll shift manually winding each gear up to 4,000 RPM's , getting on the interstate for some top end spirited driving for moderate distances where I can clearly see what's up ahead as well as putting the powertrain into passing gear for a few cycles to blow out the internals (Italian Tune Up) . You are correct to suggest these things to counter act the "short tripping" most of us tend to do living in the suburbs .
In addition to this - in laymen's terms (and not turning into a thick vs. thin debate) , explain why a Euro synthetic oil with all of the BMW , MB and VW approvals (5W30 , 0W40 & 5W40) are advantageous and preferred over 5W30 synthetic oils with SP & D1 / Gen 3 approvals for an American or Asian designed GDI engine ?
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What other oils besides Valvoline have you run in this engine?
Try Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 is also good oil, however, I don't like ILSAC type oils with skinny amounts of anti wear additives. Keep in mind that the additive package and co-base(s) are doing all the heavy lifting in a motor oil, not the HTFS. Oil formulation is not only ***key***, it is everything. You will be shocked to discover how little value @Gokhan's theories have in real world applications.
You might also be shocked to discover that switching to a different oil and oil brand might completely eliminate your oil consumption. For example my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3 GDI engine likes to consume Red Line 5W-30, however, it runs fine with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, Mobil 1 FS 5W-40, Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40, and Quaker State Euro 5W-40. It won't consume any of these oils. Again, according to @Gokhan's theories, the Red Line 5W-30 should be the best out of all these oils, but it clearly isn't. That's because his presumptions are flawed, not grounded in reality, due to a lack of information and a desire to make his own assumptions seem real. Please don't buy into them.
I owned several Sonatas with the 2.4 GDI and one with a 2.0 T-GDI. I ran Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 in most of them, including the Turbo, or Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I don't like Valvoline because many years ago I experienced some engine issues after running Valvoline 5W-20 in a 2.7 MPI Hyundai engine (it created varnish deposits on the hydraulic lifters to the point the engine was ticking all the time). Also, why pay more or the same money for an inferior oil, when I can get Mobil 1 for the same price, or even less, in some cases?
I think it was actually a Hyundai GDI engine - I may have the report still on one of my hard drives .... I believe the learning has evolved / progressed with GDI engine engineering (i.e. going with DI / PFI injector set ups , etc. to reduce intake valve deposits)
Vey kind offer David - I will get back to you via PM .
It's hard to compare : Mobil for example does not show the same specification categories for comparison between say M1 Vanilla 5W30 and M1 ESP 5W30 except in Kenamatic Viscosity (10 vs. 11.8) ; M1 5W30 ESP shows HTHS being 3.5 while M1 5W30 Vanilla does not show at all (I'm guessing it is lower around 3.0 ) .
*Edit : Engine Clearances (not tolerances) .
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$50 site donor 2023
Always wondered what was the basis of that claim - do have a bit of it and will put in the Lexus next …however it’s now on a high PAO lube - and is not a problematic engine …
That's a picture of my 2015 owner's manual. I don't have a picture of it, but Hyundai issued a TSB on the Theta II engines ages ago. 5W20 was recommended in the 2.4 and 5W30 in the 2.0T for "efficiency" but as you can see, the owner's manual was pretty much self-explanatory. The TSB upped the recommendation to 5W30 in the 2.4 and 5W40 in the 2.0T. Whether that TSB was being followed is another matter.
Try replacing the pcv valve, doing an intake service, then changing to 5 or 10W30.
Attachments
Back around 2007 or so someone posted a presentation from Lubrizol on the advantages of Mid-Saps (C3) addpack as C3 oils were becoming common in Europe due to tighter emissions (DPF, TWC) and a greater adoption of Direct Injection.
The presentation indicated that compared to A3/B4 these C3 oils exhibited comparatively less IVD buildup and it also suggested that lower Noak would also reduce the lighter fractions from adhering to the valves.
Of course 15 yrs later IVD aren't a huge problem yet people continue to worry because it's part of their personality.
Edit:. Here's the presentation.
UEIL 2006- Lower SAPS Engine Oils - Essential ... - Lubrizol
UEIL 2006- Lower SAPS Engine Oils - Essential ... - Read more about emissions, oils, lubrizol, corporation, reserved and vehicles.
www.yumpu.com
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I think Modern Engine specifically targeted IV deposits caused by valve seal leakage. Some of us understand that PCV flow isn't the only or even a major source/cause of IV deposits.
I do remember some of the Valvoline 'claiming' reduction in IV deposits but not sure what their benchmark claim was.... Some of the claims could just be a side affect of a cleaner running engine... keeping the wear and carbon buildup elsewhere to a minimum..... acceptable oil change intervals, quality fuel, occasional fuel system cleaner, reduction in short tripping.... should all also help with carbon control without needing 'Modern Engine oil'. A better running/maintained engine could possibly lead to a slower IV buildup.
investors.valvoline.com
team.valvoline.com
I wouldn't go out of my way for Valvoline, or any brand's, marketing.
One should wonder how the carbon buildup on the pistons, in the ring land/packs, valve seal wear.... lead to a poor running engine, and if that increases the build-up of IV deposits, and by how much.
On my GDI engines, thick oil to reduce wear, severe interval for clean oil and less fuel dilution, toptier fuel for clean injectors/pistons, and regular IV spray cleanings. I am not worried about buildup. I am hitting it from all directions. I won't need media blasting.
I do remember some of the Valvoline 'claiming' reduction in IV deposits but not sure what their benchmark claim was.... Some of the claims could just be a side affect of a cleaner running engine... keeping the wear and carbon buildup elsewhere to a minimum..... acceptable oil change intervals, quality fuel, occasional fuel system cleaner, reduction in short tripping.... should all also help with carbon control without needing 'Modern Engine oil'. A better running/maintained engine could possibly lead to a slower IV buildup.
Valvoline Introduces New Modern Engine Full Synthetic Motor Oil
Product innovation combats carbon build-up in potentially 100 million 2012 and newer vehicles on the road today Valvoline Inc. (NYSE: VVV) — a leading worldwide supplier of premium branded lubricants and automotive services — today unveiled another innovative new product with the introduction of...
Motor Oil Standards Are Only Minimums; Valvoline Goes For The Max
All modern name-brand motor oils meet numerous industry standards for performance, which provides a comforting assurance that these are good lubricants.
I wouldn't go out of my way for Valvoline, or any brand's, marketing.
One should wonder how the carbon buildup on the pistons, in the ring land/packs, valve seal wear.... lead to a poor running engine, and if that increases the build-up of IV deposits, and by how much.
On my GDI engines, thick oil to reduce wear, severe interval for clean oil and less fuel dilution, toptier fuel for clean injectors/pistons, and regular IV spray cleanings. I am not worried about buildup. I am hitting it from all directions. I won't need media blasting.
Sorry for the delayed response.
You are in my opinion right on target. I don’t feel the conditions exist where volatility is the major factor. The issue can be boiled down to oil mist. Oil mist is leaving the crankcase and reaching the valves. A mechanical solution that would keep the mist from traveling would be a win. There is loads of technology in the industrial world for controlling mist in compression.
We have modified formulas on racing oils to control mist and it dramatically reduces the oil in the puke tank after a pass. It went from an inch of oil in the puke tanks to traces of oil. It matters. I can’t say the steps I took there would be something I would do on a street oil however.
Another personal experience is in one of my own 7.3’s. I use one of these to pull a 15,000 pound trailer from IL to AZ. At 80 mph across the country it consistently uses 1 qt in 1800 miles. I have done this multiple times per year for 15 years. One time I decided to just over fill the engine before leaving IL. I overfilled by 2 quarts of the same oil same batch even that was in the engine. When I reached AZ the oil level did not drop. This result reproduced every trip thereafter. The only thing that I can conclude is somehow the mist was changed by oil level. On the surface you would immediately think the reverse should be true. All I can say is that this truck under these conditions with a specific oil produced those results. We do know the oil was leaving through the crankcase vent because the line was wet with oil.
Catch cans that end up with oil in them in the vent line also tells the story.
Yes there is a whole list of them. You absolutely raise a good point. I am an advocate of good oil for extended drains. It is how I operate almost all of our vehicles. That being said if the contaminants shorten the life available the next step I would make would be to pickup Mobil1 FS 0w40 and use it. That oil remains a great performer especially factoring in the price.
Actually thinking about it this would be the only recommendation I would make. Reducing the quality of the base oil isn’t going to do anything to help. So if drain limited, and provided the vehicle is not an oil burner, I would buy Mobil1 FS 0w40 and change it frequently. A small increase in cost to avoid a bigger issue is a good call.
Now that’s punny right there! 😂