My first new car. When to change the factory fill?

[2003f7]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
UOA of factory fill oil nearly always shows higher than normal wear metals and particulates. Those particulates don't help an engine, and are often directly responsible for cam chain wear. I believe your engine has a cam chain. If so, change it at or around 1000 miles. Perform your next change at or before the first specified interval.

Yes chain not belt.

 

[2003f7]

Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: 2003f7
90% highway and the city is small town not bumper to bumper big city.


If you decide to run synthetic then you could stretch your oci to 7500 miles or even further though I would run an analysis before doing that. I take it this engine is not a direct injection? If so then 7500 would be my max.

Base motor. Not Direct injection.

 

[SilverFusion2010]

I'm in the change it early camp. After lots of reading I came to several conclusions.

#1 Whether you change it early or not, it's gonna work fine. The majority of vehicles on the road had absolutely nothing special done to them. Oil was changed at factory intervals, mom hauled the kids to practice, dad took the boat fishing etc etc. If you dump the oil at 5k and use a decent oil and filter after that the engine should last as long as the car will.

#2 How you drive the first few hundred miles matters way more than any other factor during the break in period. This is the only chance you get to make the piston rings seal as perfectly as possible. How do you do this? You have to make the rings wear against the cylinder walls so the two surfaces "marry". The compression rings in particular are important, better compression seal means more efficient combustion, less blow by and overall a better running engine. What forces the rings against the cylinder wall in the first place? Cylinder pressure gets behind the ring and forces it against the cylinder wall. More pressure = more friction between ring and cylinder wall (honing pattern). What controls cylinder pressure? Throttle!!!

IMO an ideal break in would go something like this:

drive normally varying speeds as much as possible, keep your foot to 1/2 max throttle, for about 20 min. This is what I think of as the "initial" wear period

once the engine is at operating temp and you've got the oil warmed up, start gradually increasing your acceleration cycles until you're making WOT runs. Downshift to slow down rather than cook your brakes. The vacuum generated with the engine braking helps the little bits and pieces move on out. Obviously you want to obey traffic laws, so think carefully about where you will go to run the engine hard. That's the core of it. a nice country road with some good twisties is a great place to work in an engine.... mountain pass type stuff. A nice lightly traveled piece of interstate where you can bounce between 40 and 80 in 3rd gear.

You can do this several times. ALWAYS LET THE ENGINE WARM UP COMPLETELY!!!!

somewhere between 750-1000 miles change the factory fill, and proceed to drive however you want. If you worked the rings in properly you should have an engine with very low oil consumption, and minimal blow-by.


I shall now retire to my baked-potato flame proof tent

 

[SilverSnake]

Change out factory oil at 1000 - 1500 miles. Then every 6 months or 5,000 miles

 

[Thax]

I would change at around 3k. Ive pulled the drain plug on many 2.0 ff , and it seems past 3k the oil is pretty fuel diluted. The 2.0 NU engine like the ThetaII 2.4-2.0 beat oil up so regular oil changes are a good idea. I would say use a 5w-30 and OEM filter if you want to go 5k oci's. My sister has a Soul with the 2.0 NU . I use PP 5w-30 , it runs smoother than on 5w-20 and fuel mileage is not affected.

 

[NJ_Car_Owner]

I would caution as to prolonging OCIs while the car has it's warranty which is 10 years - 100,000 miles for the power train ... depending on the mileage you put on it can be a long time. Anything that can void it may be used if a major repair is needed.

 

[Eddie]

I would follow the manufactures severe service change which is usually 5,000 miles. If you can't wait, then change at 1/2 that or 2,500 miles. You need to keep the FF in so it can do what it is intended to accomplice. Modern oil filters are wonderful for keeping bad stuff from circulating in the oil. Ed

 

[gabriel9766]

Changed out the FF out in my Malibu around 4.2k and just rolled over 24k with no problems.

 

[BrocLuno]

Do you own change asap. Install a magnetic drain plug. Refill with good oil. Install oversized filter if you have to room...

Run it out to 4K. Do it again and install Hyundai filter.

Go to 7500 and have dealer do change. They'll think it was just easy driving and log it into the system. Meanwhile you got rid of everything that can hurt anything

You have how much invested in this thing? Oil and filters are dirt cheap insurance ...

 

[JHZR2]

Id personally change on the severe schedule twice and then move to the non-severe one. With a decent syn oil the non-severe interval can be used even for most claims of severe, if backed up by UOA...

 

[Gebo]

Id do first change at 2k with filter and 2nd at 5k with filter and then every 5k with filter after that. I'd us a 5W-30 weight in Wisconsin.

 

[Superflan]

Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I'm in the change it early camp. After lots of reading I came to several conclusions.

#1 Whether you change it early or not, it's gonna work fine. The majority of vehicles on the road had absolutely nothing special done to them. Oil was changed at factory intervals, mom hauled the kids to practice, dad took the boat fishing etc etc. If you dump the oil at 5k and use a decent oil and filter after that the engine should last as long as the car will.

#2 How you drive the first few hundred miles matters way more than any other factor during the break in period. This is the only chance you get to make the piston rings seal as perfectly as possible. How do you do this? You have to make the rings wear against the cylinder walls so the two surfaces "marry". The compression rings in particular are important, better compression seal means more efficient combustion, less blow by and overall a better running engine. What forces the rings against the cylinder wall in the first place? Cylinder pressure gets behind the ring and forces it against the cylinder wall. More pressure = more friction between ring and cylinder wall (honing pattern). What controls cylinder pressure? Throttle!!!

IMO an ideal break in would go something like this:

drive normally varying speeds as much as possible, keep your foot to 1/2 max throttle, for about 20 min. This is what I think of as the "initial" wear period

once the engine is at operating temp and you've got the oil warmed up, start gradually increasing your acceleration cycles until you're making WOT runs. Downshift to slow down rather than cook your brakes. The vacuum generated with the engine braking helps the little bits and pieces move on out. Obviously you want to obey traffic laws, so think carefully about where you will go to run the engine hard. That's the core of it. a nice country road with some good twisties is a great place to work in an engine.... mountain pass type stuff. A nice lightly traveled piece of interstate where you can bounce between 40 and 80 in 3rd gear.

You can do this several times. ALWAYS LET THE ENGINE WARM UP COMPLETELY!!!!

somewhere between 750-1000 miles change the factory fill, and proceed to drive however you want. If you worked the rings in properly you should have an engine with very low oil consumption, and minimal blow-by.


I shall now retire to my baked-potato flame proof tent

I've done this on all the bikes and cars I got from new, still hear superior performance (measured) from them, plus near-zero oil consumption

 

[ChiTDI]

Both sides of the early/scheduled argument have valid points.
Why not check with the dealership/ manufacturer as to whether they use a "break-in" oil.
Bitog has a VOA forum. If they have a lot of manganese and molybdenum disulfide in there, it is for a reason.
If they use regular oil, then do it when you want. Sleep well , as someone said, and enjoy the car.

 

[ChiTDI]

Another thought, probably even more beneficial than the first oil change -
Read the owners manual for break in driving instructions.
Lot of people don't follow the guide and wonder why they burn oil so soon.

 

[Alex_V]

2,000 miles.

My Cruze, with 89,000 miles on it, uses zero oil. That was after a 2,000 mi. and a 4,000 mi. interval on GM Dexos, after which I went to Synpower every 5K. And I drag raced a motorcycle (twice) with 1,000 miles on the clock.

 

[AnthemBassMan]

I just bought my Wife a 2017 Hyundai Elantra with the 2.0L engine Saturday evening. I'll probably change the oil around 2k then stick with the 7500 mile change recommendation. She now drives maybe 10k/year. My 2010 Chrysler Sebring has 151k on it. I change the oil every 6k miles and it only loses approx 1/2qt between changes. Not too bad considering that sometimes I have it up to 5000 RPMs getting on the highway.

L8R,
Matt

 

[FowVay]

This wear metal was in my filter at 600 miles. I changed this filter and will do my initial fluid change at 1200 miles. I'll run that out to 5,000 miles and then get on a 5,000 mile interval.

Timing chains and components dump a lot of debris into the oil on break-in. An early first change wouldn't be a bad idea, in my opinion.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

1st oil change within 100 miles of taking possession of the vehicle; 2nd oil change 1500 miles after 1st change, 3rd oil change 3K miles after 2nd, 4th and beyond at normal intervals. Go synthetic at 4th change.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4161992/Re:_Oil_opinions_after_dumping#Post4161992 If you read this 4 page post you can see it got pretty testy.

I have been called confrontational, boy, e-peen, (had to look that up) derogatory and irrelevant for passing along RECOMMENDATIONS from someone with more oil credentials and oil education than anyone on this board. I was TRYING to do none of the above, all I was trying to do was pass along educated opinion, which is how I regard Mr. Jim Fitch's. Mr. Fitch's RECOMMENDATIONS may or may not be followed. He said he wrote them for people wishing to obtain long life from their vehicle..it is your vehicle, do as you please...and I guess, no, the matter is not settled. BITOG is not the only source of information regarding oil change intervals.

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I look at the occasional UOA from a new vehicle, and wear metals are always high, a normal occurrence for an new engine. Obviously those wear metals are not being filtered out of the oil, because they show up as elevated wear metals in the report. I look at those metals as metal which can cause additional wear, I want them out. Are they harmless? Even the finest sand paper can remove paint from metal, or metal from metal given enough time. The same applies for extra wear metal in an engine. I agree with Noria's findings, numerous discussions with Trav, and an old friend who owns a machine shop and builds engines. But as mentioned this topic will always have two sides.

OP- Congratulations on your new vehicle. Bottom line your car, your money, spend it as you see fit.


Next time I take possession of a new vehicle I will take a jack, tools, oil & filter, drain pan, etc....if the vehicle has more than 100 miles on it I will drain the oil and change it before leaving the dealer lot. If you disagree with me it's a free country. Do as you please and enjoy your new vehicle.
_________________________
NTZ & Puradyn
2003 Lesabre
2004 Lesabre
2004 Impala
If ur NOT doing UOA then you're throwing away good oil or your engine is already damaged. Choose.

 

[alarmguy]

Since you are excited about it, why not change it at 3,500 miles?

or, me personally, 2,500 miles, followed by 4000 miles after that, first 2 OCI then whatever you choose after.
As far as the posts above mine, I agree that there certainly is nothing wrong with doing it even sooner then I mention.
Its really whatever makes you feel good about the car, that is why we buy what we do. )

 

[ChrisD46]

This is a reasonable plan :
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Change out factory oil at 1000 - 1500 miles. Then every 6 months or 5,000 miles