My experiences with thin oil

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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
FWIW:

There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.

BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....

Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?


Good point.

Though mine would be classified as torture rather than racing.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
FWIW:

There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.

BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....

Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?


Good point.

Though mine would be classified as torture rather than racing.


Right on! I drive my car like I stole it! The way a Z is meant to be driven!!!!
11.gif
20W50 ftw!!!!!
10.gif
 
Most of the conversation here seems to be between a 5W-20 as the thin oil and a 10W-30 as the thick oil. Am I understanding that 10W-30 is considered a thick/heavy oil today?
 
Originally Posted By: ZGRider
If most oils tend to fall out of grade with mileage, then what would happen to 5w-20 or 0w-20 oil? It could drop into the range of a 10 weight oil? With extended OCIs I don't like to think about that scenario during a very hot summer and stop and go driving...


Driving conditions of each driver is different with other drivers, this car sees mostly short trips, at least 90%, at less than 7 miles; The remaining trips are less than 15 miles. The car is rarely in operating temperature more than 10 minutes a month.

Originally Posted By: BuickGN

...
Why people insist on running a 0w-20 in a climate that never gets below freezing and has 100+ degree summers, I'll never know.
...


I did not INSIST on running thinner oil in So Cal climate, I just try to verify what Dr AEHass put on his paper on Mar 2008. Engine noise got loud after changed to Delo 15W40 last Aug made me try thinner oil again to see if engine noise is oil related. For this particular E430, thinner oil does reduce engine noise.

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
...
Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?


No, I did not RACE with anybody anytime. I usually drive with traffic flow on city streets. On highway, if traffic and weather permitted, I just like to test the car limit. I never stayed on left lane 1 second longer than needed to pass slower car(s) on right lane, I always stay on right lane until I need to pass then I moved to left lane. Of the 50+ trips to Vegas I got passed by a total less than 10 cars, excluded police cars, while I passed may be many thousands cars.

Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Most of the conversation here seems to be between a 5W-20 as the thin oil and a 10W-30 as the thick oil. Am I understanding that 10W-30 is considered a thick/heavy oil today?


We're talking about xW40 versus xW20 in a car spec'd for xW40.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR


No, I did not RACE with anybody anytime. I usually drive with traffic flow on city streets. On highway, if traffic and weather permitted, I just like to test the car limit. I never stayed on left lane 1 second longer than needed to pass slower car(s) on right lane, I always stay on right lane until I need to pass then I moved to left lane. Of the 50+ trips to Vegas I got passed by a total less than 10 cars, excluded police cars, while I passed may be many thousands cars.



Sorry, I was thinking about zoomzoom and his Audi when I made that comment.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
FWIW:

There is a difference between driving a car and DRIVING a car.

BuickGN and the OP (as well as myself) are doing the latter.....

Does anybody in this thread actually RACE a car with a 5w20 or 0w20 as well as the car being daily driven?


I haven't necessarily raced my truck, but it's sole purpose is for towing 8-10k lb trailers so IMO it's quite similiar to racing. It is spec'd for 20w, but i've been there done that and i'm not comfortable with it so i'm going 30w next change.
I don't know how much more protection i'll get vs. a 20w, but i'd imagine it'll be better.
 
Hi,
sprintman = I agree and I suspect that will be when the engine's minimum operating HTHS viscosity is exceeded. Who know's best when this occurs? - the engine's manufacturer!
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
sprintman = I agree and I suspect that will be when the engine's minimum operating HTHS viscosity is exceeded. Who know's best when this occurs? - the engine's manufacturer!


There you go again Doug, using that darned LOGIC!!
 
Doug and Sprintman, what do you think is the best viscosity for Australian conditions..... lets use Melbourne and Sydney as the 2 biggest cities.

BuickGN, to sum some things up, what do you believe to be the best viscosity where you are ??? Its just amazing the temp variances you guys get in the U.S.
 
Originally Posted By: ZGRider
If most oils tend to fall out of grade with mileage, then what would happen to 5w-20 or 0w-20 oil? It could drop into the range of a 10 weight oil?


Do "most oils tend ot fall out of grade"? You'll be hard-pressed to demonstrate today's SM rated 5-20's dropping out of the 20 weight category via UOA's. Actually, you may find the opposite...if an SM 5-20 were left in long enough, i.e., TOO LONG, you would find it thickens, not thins. The info is on this site's UOA's.
 
Originally Posted By: Titan
Originally Posted By: ZGRider
If most oils tend to fall out of grade with mileage, then what would happen to 5w-20 or 0w-20 oil? It could drop into the range of a 10 weight oil?


Do "most oils tend ot fall out of grade"? You'll be hard-pressed to demonstrate today's SM rated 5-20's dropping out of the 20 weight category via UOA's. Actually, you may find the opposite...if an SM 5-20 were left in long enough, i.e., TOO LONG, you would find it thickens, not thins. The info is on this site's UOA's.


+2..........You might find a 5W30 more likely to fall out of grade. The 0W20 and 5W20 grade oils seem to be doing well.

Frank D
 
Hi,
vxcalais - Your question is broad and therefore the answer must be broad too!

Firstly, multi-grade lubricants were introduced in the 1950s for a number of reasons - one was to provide an all year round product. 10w-30 was really the firste and it suited US engines of the time very well indeed. Another reason for multigrade development was to "cover" the emerging technologies, hench the 20W-50 lubricant that was expressly developed in 1958-9 for the BMC Mini!

20W-50 quickly became a "cover all" viscosity that masked a lot of the technical defects in design prevalent at the time! The expansion of viscosities (ranges) over the last 20 years or so is quite amazing. Many have been introduced to satisfy a variety of "reasons" again - many if not most may have very little to do with the engine manufacturer's wishes or needs

Heavy Diesel Engines
In Australia the most common viscosity used is 15W-40 - across the trucking, mining and earthmoving Industries. Some Euro engines now use lower cold start viscosities and 5W-40 is but one and a number of 10W-40 HDEOs are now available too

Cars
The obvious answer is surely "the lowest viscosity recommended by the engine's manufacturer for the expected ambient temperature range" according to the application

In Australia and New Zealand we still have a large following for the 20W-50 "fits all" theory - surely this is a hangup from the English vehicles that dominated our markets here for so very long?

1 - Practicality
The most popular car service point here in Airlie Beach uses Castrol's RX Super 15W-40 HDEO across the board! This is in Rollers, Benzes, Maseratis, Porsches, Corvettes, Mustangs, Ferraris, Buicks and Volkswagens - and everything in between, both old and new! The ambient range is from -10 to near 50C!

The service point's owner is a well trained ex. BMW Service Engineer and a good friend

This type of servcing approach is very common in OZ and comes from Oil Company Reps. selling a "multi-fit" lubricant to limit inventory requirements, price and etc

Bad example: One independent Porsche service point in Sydney filled most engines with a 25W-50 mineral lubricant - a viscosity NEVER recommended by Porsche - primarily "to get good hot idle oil pressure". Some Porsche engines have 32 hydraulically controlled valves and lubricant intercoolers. In temperatures around 5C and below there is a definte "hydraulic" feel to these engine when using this lubricant.The manufacturer recommends a 5W-40 synthetic lubricant.
There is NO concrete evidence of excessive wear in these engines when using the 25W-50 lubricant (instead of a synthetic 5W-40) but the engines were never operating optimally!

2) - Reality
a - Use what is recommended by the engine's manufacturer! They know what is required for the wide application of their engines
b - Here (generally) Audi use a synthetic 5W-40, MB and Porsche use 0W-40. Many BMW Dealers use 0W-40 too. I understand that most Deealerships follow the manufacturer's Warranty line on viscosities very well here in OZ

3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application

Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) - and in many different engine families, I used Castrol's excellent synthetic 10W-60 - a lubricant that I helped to develop. I bought a VL Commodore new and it had a diet of that lubricant until 160kkms. The beautiful Nissan engine was still operating as new when sold! It had 10kkms OCIs

Today in my cars and light trucks I only use synthetic lubricants, a 0W-40 lubricant in many engines and 5W-40 in many others. One Toyota engine is on a 10W-40 semi-synthetic

I use of a lubricant with a HTHS viscosity of around 4cP in my Porsche engines (3.5cP is the minimum needed) due to the fact that I live in the Tropics and at times drive fast for hours on end at temperatures from 33-40C. Spirited driving is the descrition I think! These engines (M28 M96 etc) may be "sensitive" to lubricants with a low HTHS viscosity in certain operating environments

Summary
Use what the engine manufacturer recommends.

Synthetics have worked for me for years and perhaps outside of what the manufacturer recommends, and to answer your broad question, either a 0W-40 or a 5W-40 viscoity for Melbourne/Sydney is a broad answer and maybe a wise choice too
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
vxcalais - Your question is broad and therefore the answer must be broad too!

Firstly, multi-grade lubricants were introduced in the 1950s for a number of reasons - one was to provide an all year round product. 10w-30 was really the firste and it suited US engines of the time very well indeed. Another reason for multigrade development was to "cover" the emerging technologies, hench the 20W-50 lubricant that was expressly developed in 1958-9 for the BMC Mini!

20W-50 quickly became a "cover all" viscosity that masked a lot of the technical defects in design prevalent at the time! The expansion of viscosities (ranges) over the last 20 years or so is quite amazing. Many have been introduced to satisfy a variety of "reasons" again - many if not most may have very little to do with the engine manufacturer's wishes or needs

Heavy Diesel Engines
In Australia the most common viscosity used is 15W-40 - across the trucking, mining and earthmoving Industries. Some Euro engines now use lower cold start viscosities and 5W-40 is but one and a number of 10W-40 HDEOs are now available too

Cars
The obvious answer is surely "the lowest viscosity recommended by the engine's manufacturer for the expected ambient temperature range" according to the application

In Australia and New Zealand we still have a large following for the 20W-50 "fits all" theory - surely this is a hangup from the English vehicles that dominated our markets here for so very long?

1 - Practicality
The most popular car service point here in Airlie Beach uses Castrol's RX Super 15W-40 HDEO across the board! This is in Rollers, Benzes, Maseratis, Porsches, Corvettes, Mustangs, Ferraris, Buicks and Volkswagens - and everything in between, both old and new! The ambient range is from -10 to near 50C!

The service point's owner is a well trained ex. BMW Service Engineer and a good friend

This type of servcing approach is very common in OZ and comes from Oil Company Reps. selling a "multi-fit" lubricant to limit inventory requirements, price and etc

Bad example: One independent Porsche service point in Sydney filled most engines with a 25W-50 mineral lubricant - a viscosity NEVER recommended by Porsche - primarily "to get good hot idle oil pressure". Some Porsche engines have 32 hydraulically controlled valves and lubricant intercoolers. In temperatures around 5C and below there is a definte "hydraulic" feel to these engine when using this lubricant.The manufacturer recommends a 5W-40 synthetic lubricant.
There is NO concrete evidence of excessive wear in these engines when using the 25W-50 lubricant (instead of a synthetic 5W-40) but the engines were never operating optimally!

2) - Reality
a - Use what is recommended by the engine's manufacturer! They know what is required for the wide application of their engines
b - Here (generally) Audi use a synthetic 5W-40, MB and Porsche use 0W-40. Many BMW Dealers use 0W-40 too. I understand that most Deealerships follow the manufacturer's Warranty line on viscosities very well here in OZ

3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application

Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) - and in many different engine families, I used Castrol's excellent synthetic 10W-60 - a lubricant that I helped to develop. I bought a VL Commodore new and it had a diet of that lubricant until 160kkms. The beautiful Nissan engine was still operating as new when sold! It had 10kkms OCIs

Today in my cars and light trucks I only use synthetic lubricants, a 0W-40 lubricant in many engines and 5W-40 in many others. One Toyota engine is on a 10W-40 semi-synthetic

I use of a lubricant with a HTHS viscosity of around 4cP in my Porsche engines (3.5cP is the minimum needed) due to the fact that I live in the Tropics and at times drive fast for hours on end at temperatures from 33-40C. Spirited driving is the descrition I think! These engines (M28 M96 etc) may be "sensitive" to lubricants with a low HTHS viscosity in certain operating environments

Summary
Use what the engine manufacturer recommends.

Synthetics have worked for me for years and perhaps outside of what the manufacturer recommends, and to answer your broad question, either a 0W-40 or a 5W-40 viscoity for Melbourne/Sydney is a broad answer and maybe a wise choice too


As always your posts make a lot of sense.

My only question is when a manufacturer recommends a 5-20 in a car that used to spec a grade higher like 10-30 with no changes to the engine most likely to comply to CAFE standards, don't you think optimal protection would be with the recommended viscosity before the CAFE push?
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
vxcalais - Your question is broad and therefore the answer must be broad too!

Firstly, multi-grade lubricants were introduced in the 1950s for a number of reasons - one was to provide an all year round product. 10w-30 was really the firste and it suited US engines of the time very well indeed. Another reason for multigrade development was to "cover" the emerging technologies, hench the 20W-50 lubricant that was expressly developed in 1958-9 for the BMC Mini!

20W-50 quickly became a "cover all" viscosity that masked a lot of the technical defects in design prevalent at the time! The expansion of viscosities (ranges) over the last 20 years or so is quite amazing. Many have been introduced to satisfy a variety of "reasons" again - many if not most may have very little to do with the engine manufacturer's wishes or needs

Heavy Diesel Engines
In Australia the most common viscosity used is 15W-40 - across the trucking, mining and earthmoving Industries. Some Euro engines now use lower cold start viscosities and 5W-40 is but one and a number of 10W-40 HDEOs are now available too

Cars
The obvious answer is surely "the lowest viscosity recommended by the engine's manufacturer for the expected ambient temperature range" according to the application

In Australia and New Zealand we still have a large following for the 20W-50 "fits all" theory - surely this is a hangup from the English vehicles that dominated our markets here for so very long?

1 - Practicality
The most popular car service point here in Airlie Beach uses Castrol's RX Super 15W-40 HDEO across the board! This is in Rollers, Benzes, Maseratis, Porsches, Corvettes, Mustangs, Ferraris, Buicks and Volkswagens - and everything in between, both old and new! The ambient range is from -10 to near 50C!

The service point's owner is a well trained ex. BMW Service Engineer and a good friend

This type of servcing approach is very common in OZ and comes from Oil Company Reps. selling a "multi-fit" lubricant to limit inventory requirements, price and etc

Bad example: One independent Porsche service point in Sydney filled most engines with a 25W-50 mineral lubricant - a viscosity NEVER recommended by Porsche - primarily "to get good hot idle oil pressure". Some Porsche engines have 32 hydraulically controlled valves and lubricant intercoolers. In temperatures around 5C and below there is a definte "hydraulic" feel to these engine when using this lubricant.The manufacturer recommends a 5W-40 synthetic lubricant.
There is NO concrete evidence of excessive wear in these engines when using the 25W-50 lubricant (instead of a synthetic 5W-40) but the engines were never operating optimally!

2) - Reality
a - Use what is recommended by the engine's manufacturer! They know what is required for the wide application of their engines
b - Here (generally) Audi use a synthetic 5W-40, MB and Porsche use 0W-40. Many BMW Dealers use 0W-40 too. I understand that most Deealerships follow the manufacturer's Warranty line on viscosities very well here in OZ

3) - Unreality
Most parts and accessory shops such as Autobarn and Supercheap sell lubricants that are made popular via all media advertising! Their "Technical" staff are mostly unskilled sales people that give people what they want - the advice given is unlikely to be based on what is best for a specific application

Personally
For many years - from 1980 until around 1995 and in Sydney (lower end of the Blue Mountains) - and in many different engine families, I used Castrol's excellent synthetic 10W-60 - a lubricant that I helped to develop. I bought a VL Commodore new and it had a diet of that lubricant until 160kkms. The beautiful Nissan engine was still operating as new when sold! It had 10kkms OCIs

Today in my cars and light trucks I only use synthetic lubricants, a 0W-40 lubricant in many engines and 5W-40 in many others. One Toyota engine is on a 10W-40 semi-synthetic

I use of a lubricant with a HTHS viscosity of around 4cP in my Porsche engines (3.5cP is the minimum needed) due to the fact that I live in the Tropics and at times drive fast for hours on end at temperatures from 33-40C. Spirited driving is the descrition I think! These engines (M28 M96 etc) may be "sensitive" to lubricants with a low HTHS viscosity in certain operating environments

Summary
Use what the engine manufacturer recommends.

Synthetics have worked for me for years and perhaps outside of what the manufacturer recommends, and to answer your broad question, either a 0W-40 or a 5W-40 viscoity for Melbourne/Sydney is a broad answer and maybe a wise choice too


As always your posts make a lot of sense.

My only question is when a manufacturer recommends a 5-20 in a car that used to spec a grade higher like 10-30 with no changes to the engine most likely to comply to CAFE standards, don't you think optimal protection would be with the recommended viscosity before the CAFE push?


^^That`s what I`ve always thought. Car manufactures are looking to sell the most cars by advertising the absolute best gas mileage,especially with the uncertain and fluctuating fuel prices.
 
Last edited:
Hi,
BuickGN - I said this:
"Many have been introduced to satisfy a variety of "reasons" again - many if not most may have very little to do with the engine manufacturer's wishes or needs"

This is factual. World market supply and quality control issues are a consideration for all manufacturers (vehicles & lubricants)

CAFE is of course your issue in the US - ACEA cover this by having a similar set of otional criteria that can be adopted by the engine manufacturer. Of course ACEA is "owned" by the vehicle and engine manufacturers so they set the criteria! In the US and to are large degree others may set the criteria!!

In a similar vein - we have emission control standards here in OZ for all new vehicles sold! The only on-going control of maintaining the new vehicle's Australian Design Rules standard after the vehicles leaves the showroom applies to heavy diesel engines. That is the visible smoke control - no smoke is allowed to be visible after 12 seconds of acelleration IIRC

Imagine how much fuel is wasted (and pollution is created) by faulty or inoperative emission controls as the engine ages. And of course this is all after the cost of the conrol systems have been paid for initially!

So the optimal lubricant for an engine family has two very significant parameters amongst many - the minimum HTHS viscosity (beyond which wear accellerates) - a maximum HTHS viscosity (beyond which optimal performance may suffer)

That said I have not seen any evidence of excessive wear occur with each lubricant change of specification (API or ACEA) as long as the correct viscosity is used! The correct viscosity is determined during Lab and road test sequences - it may then be modified by Technical Service Bulletins etc as perhaps Warranty and other experience determines!

In the case of using lower viscosity lubricants than those specified (perhaps refer to A E Haas) this may be alright in a known application. I have no doubt that in the hands of a skillful and understanding driver this may well be the case!
For me the minimum HTHS viscosity mandated for the engine will still be my baseline as it has been for a decade or two!

The manufacturer however must always aim for the "general" use equation where almost anything is possible. Such as a cold start at -10C and then a drive off at maximum revs! Or a person who has no automotive/mechanical empathy - which is the bulk of vehicle drivers - who just wants reliability and a low cost of ownership. So the viscosity "license" must be a good fit in this scenario

It is a question that exercises the minds of a few - not many - in a Global sense

More fuel is wasted by the driver's right foot and their emotions than by using a 20W-50 mineral lubricant in the engine instead of a 0W-20 synthetic! And most couldn't care less either
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: BuickGN



My only question is when a manufacturer recommends a 5-20 in a car that used to spec a grade higher like 10-30 with no changes to the engine most likely to comply to CAFE standards, don't you think optimal protection would be with the recommended viscosity before the CAFE push?


^^That`s what I`ve always thought. Car manufactures are looking to sell the most cars by advertising the absolute best gas mileage,especially with the uncertain and fluctuating fuel prices.


I thought the same thing, but it seems the UOA for the 0W20 and 5W20 grade oils look pretty good. As always time will tell and as more UOA's for the "thinner" grade oils hit the board. I'd stick to what the MFG suggests and call it a day.

Frank D
 
Maybe it`s like someone said.........there`s a happy medium. You can go thick,but not too thick,and you go go thin but not too thin and keep the same safety margin.
 
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