I originally created the thread below to seek opinions on an OCI length for my cousin's 2000 Nissan Pathfinder V6. Shortly afterwards, I discovered that she actually had a sludge problem which was quite evident by looking through the oil fill hole.
The thread can be seen here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1963598
StevieC offered to send me a bottle of Auto-RX if I would follow through with a documented test of the product on my cousin's sludged up Nissan while following the directions on the ARX website to a "T". I agreed and most of the details can be read in the original thread along with the original "before" pictures. A big "Thank you!" to StevieC for sending me the Auto-RX! 
Here are the pictures, including a new "before" picture taken with my camera instead of my phone:
During the oil change, I also changed the PCV valve to make sure that was in working order. The one that I took off looks like it was probably the original one.
The oil I drained out looked disgusting, like mud. It's pretty obvious in the pictures. That oil *supposedly* only had a little less than 3000 miles on it. But, the junk dealer she bought the SUV from probably did not change the oil after the swapped in the engine. They also told her she should come back there for all of her oil changes, probably so when someone else changed the oil, they wouldn't tell her that she had a big chunk of metal welded on the oil pan patching a hole! (Can be seen in one of the pictures)
Anyway, around 1200-1300 miles I will change the filter and take pictures of it and down the fill hole, as well as the odometer and when I start the rinse phase. Immediately following the end of the rinse phase I will take pictures of the drained oil, down the fill hole, and of the filter (maybe cut open if I can find a way to do it without an actual filter cutter).
Finally, here are the results of the initial compression test on the 3 passenger side cylinders.(The only ones I could actually get to with ease.)These are also posted in the original thread:
Front (Toward Radiator): 150 PSI
Middle: 165 PSI
Rear: 172 PSI
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I tried to document everything as well as possible.
Here are the pictures, including a new "before" picture taken with my camera instead of my phone:
During the oil change, I also changed the PCV valve to make sure that was in working order. The one that I took off looks like it was probably the original one.
The oil I drained out looked disgusting, like mud. It's pretty obvious in the pictures. That oil *supposedly* only had a little less than 3000 miles on it. But, the junk dealer she bought the SUV from probably did not change the oil after the swapped in the engine. They also told her she should come back there for all of her oil changes, probably so when someone else changed the oil, they wouldn't tell her that she had a big chunk of metal welded on the oil pan patching a hole! (Can be seen in one of the pictures)
Anyway, around 1200-1300 miles I will change the filter and take pictures of it and down the fill hole, as well as the odometer and when I start the rinse phase. Immediately following the end of the rinse phase I will take pictures of the drained oil, down the fill hole, and of the filter (maybe cut open if I can find a way to do it without an actual filter cutter).
Finally, here are the results of the initial compression test on the 3 passenger side cylinders.(The only ones I could actually get to with ease.)These are also posted in the original thread:
Front (Toward Radiator): 150 PSI
Middle: 165 PSI
Rear: 172 PSI
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I tried to document everything as well as possible.
I will trade you a bottle for a case of Toyota 0w20... How about that?
